TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions.

There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including:

  • Maintaining Composure
  • Breathing
  • Pump Management
  • Nailing Sequences instead of Winging It
  • Eliminating Fear
  • Managing Discomforts
  • Increasing Confidence
  • Having Patience with the Process
  • Dealing with Cold Weather Climbing
  • Eating for Cold Weather Pumpy Climbing

We actually spent quite a bit of time talking about making climbing in the cold more tolerable, so if you're a cold-a-phobe like I used to be, this is a good one to listen to!

I learned some things from this episode, and Alex is really good at calling out issues and then making very relatable, useful suggestions that you can put into practice right away.

Show Links

Episoder(250)

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was wo...

8 Mar 20231h 36min

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 pati...

22 Feb 202358min

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Be...

1 Feb 20231h 39min

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They're both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, s...

19 Jan 20231h 23min

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so sh...

4 Jan 20231h 11min

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there's a growing ne...

14 Des 20221h 17min

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump ...

16 Nov 20221h 18min

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