Written in Stone: Climbing History24 Feb 2025

Jesse Guthrie on Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, and Climbing in the '80s

Check out our new book, Written In Stone: The 1990s!

As I was researching Wolfgang, I would regularly come across candid photos taken inside the house he shared with Kurt Albert, and of course I read every story about Wolfgang I could find. In those photos and those stories, I often came across an American name - Jesse Guthrie. I had to try to find him and get him on the show.

He was one of the people on the leading edge of sport climbing when it was first coming into existence, and established the first 5.13s in Alabama and one of the first 5.14’s in the country with Tour de Jour at Yellow Bluff. Jesse is now living in the Czech Republic with his wife and children, teaches English, writes books, plays music and yes, still climbs.

In this episode we get into both Wolfgang and Kurt, what it was like traveling with them, how the ethics were evolving, Jesse’s time as a rodeo cowboy, and more.

Jesse’s Website: http://www.jesseguthrie.com/domains/jesseguthrie.com/

Our friends at Rab are excited to sponsor both full and partial scholarships to Ladies Weekend Out's events, making their educational programs more accessible than ever and helping to empower women in the outdoors.”

Learn more here: https://www.ladiesweekendout.com/rab-equipment-scholarships

Save Arapiles Climbing Petition: https://www.change.org/p/save-natimuk-stop-the-rock-climbing-ban-at-the-famous-mt-arapiles

Save Arapiles Climbing Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_bYfeWq_Nw

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes.

----------------------------------

Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Denne episoden er hentet fra en åpen RSS-feed og er ikke publisert av Podme. Den kan derfor inneholde annonser.

Episoder(95)

The First V6 (7A) Boulder | Robert Paragot and The Joker

WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE Perhaps the most powerful force in the early years of Fontainebleau bouldering history was the consistent changing of the guard. Every few years a new group would supplant the ol...

9 Jul 46min

World's First 6A (V3) Boulder and The Convicts of Cuvier

WATCH THIS ON YOUTUBE Shortly after WWII, a new group formed in Fontainebleau. They called themselves the Cuvier Academic Club, but were quickly known as The Convicts of Cuvier. Led by Pierre Allain, ...

22 Jun 37min

Pierre Allain: The First Superstar of Modern Bouldering

After World War 1, bouldering began to shapeshift into something that very closely resembles the modern day game. At the forefront of that movement was Pierre Allain, a climber who was openly competit...

8 Jun 44min

Fontainebleau and the Birth of Bouldering as We Know It

EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone-yt FREE BONUS EPISODES ➡️ https://link.powercompanyclimbing.com/secretstoners-yt By 1908, people had been practicing on boulders fo...

25 Mai 39min

Was Oscar Eckenstein Really the First Boulderer? Featuring Efix Roy

Was Oscar Eckenstein the first boulderer? What does that even mean? This season, we are asking and trying to answer some big questions. In this episode, I talk with our research assistant, Efix Roy, a...

18 Mai 19min

The First Boulderer and His Occultist Protégé: Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley

WATCH THIS EPISODE ON YOUTUBE People have likely climbed on boulders for all of human history, but in the late 1800's, one man began advocating for climbing on boulders as a way to become a better cli...

11 Mai 35min

Season 3 | The History of Modern Bouldering

What is bouldering, really? What defines a "boulderer"? And how has that changed since the beginnings of the game? Are there rules, and if so, where did those "rules" start? Coming Soon: Season 3 of ...

20 Apr 7min

Michael Kennedy on Access to Climbing Culture and the Photo of Edlinger That Defined the 80s

Michael Kennedy is a legend of climbing media. As the editor of Climbing Magazine from 1974 to 1998, he helped to bring climbing culture to tens of thousands of climbers who otherwise didn't have acce...

6 Apr 1h 13min