Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Episoder(2628)

Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic Expeditions, Pt. 2

Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic Expeditions, Pt. 2

After Shackleton’s team abandoned the Endurance to the ice, they faced a harrowing journey over the ice of Antarctica. Meanwhile, the support team aboard the Aurora was also faced with a grueling and treacherous race for survival. Research: LeBrun, Nancy. “Survival! The Shackleton Story.” National Geogrpahic. Via YouTube. 1991. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgh_77TtX5I "Ernest Shackleton, Sir." Explorers & Discoverers of the World, Gale, 1993. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/K1614000271/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=b93f5648. Accessed 14 Mar. 2022. Savours, Ann. “Shackleton, Sir Ernest Henry.” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. 9/23/2004. https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/36034 "Patience and Endurance; Underwater archaeology." The Economist, 12 Mar. 2022, p. 69(US). Gale OneFile: Business, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A696334375/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=e2fe8a81. Accessed 14 Mar. 2022. Falkland Maritime Heritage Trust. “Endurance 22.” https://endurance22.org/ Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ernest Shackleton". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Feb. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ernest-Henry-Shackleton. Accessed 15 March 2022. Tyler, Kelly. “Shackleton's Lost Men.” Shackleton: Voyage of Endurance. Nova. https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/shackleton/1914/lostmen.html Roisman-Cooper, Barbara. “Part I: Polar dreams, polar disappointments.” British Heritage. Jun/Jul99, Vol. 20 Issue 4, p32. Roisman-Cooper, Barbara. “Part 2: Polar dreams, polar disappointments.” British Heritage. Oct/Nov99, Vol. 20 Issue 6, p52. Schultheiss, Katrin. “The Ends of the Earth and the “Heroic Age” of Polar Exploration: A Review Essay.” Historically Speaking, Volume 10, Number 2, April 2009, pp. 14-17. https://doi.org/10.1353/hsp.0.0026 Alexander, Caroline. “The Endurance: Shackleton’s Legendary Antarctic Expedition.” With the American Museum of Natural History. Knopf. 1998. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

6 Apr 202238min

Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic Expeditions, Pt. 1

Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic Expeditions, Pt. 1

Shackleton is famous for his expeditions in Antarctica, but he started his career as a Merchant Marine. Part one of this story covers his early life, early expeditions, and the treacherous start of his most famous expedition, just after WWI began. Research: LeBrun, Nancy. “Survival! The Shackleton Story.” National Geogrpahic. Via YouTube. 1991. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgh_77TtX5I "Ernest Shackleton, Sir." Explorers & Discoverers of the World, Gale, 1993. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/K1614000271/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=b93f5648. Accessed 14 Mar. 2022. Savours, Ann. “Shackleton, Sir Ernest Henry.” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. 9/23/2004. https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/36034 "Patience and Endurance; Underwater archaeology." The Economist, 12 Mar. 2022, p. 69(US). Gale OneFile: Business, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A696334375/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=e2fe8a81. Accessed 14 Mar. 2022. Falkland Maritime Heritage Trust. “Endurance 22.” https://endurance22.org/ Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ernest Shackleton". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Feb. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ernest-Henry-Shackleton. Accessed 15 March 2022. Tyler, Kelly. “Shackleton's Lost Men.” Shackleton: Voyage of Endurance. Nova. https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/shackleton/1914/lostmen.html Roisman-Cooper, Barbara. “Part I: Polar dreams, polar disappointments.” British Heritage. Jun/Jul99, Vol. 20 Issue 4, p32. Roisman-Cooper, Barbara. “Part 2: Polar dreams, polar disappointments.” British Heritage. Oct/Nov99, Vol. 20 Issue 6, p52. Schultheiss, Katrin. “The Ends of the Earth and the “Heroic Age” of Polar Exploration: A Review Essay.” Historically Speaking, Volume 10, Number 2, April 2009, pp. 14-17. https://doi.org/10.1353/hsp.0.0026 Alexander, Caroline. “The Endurance: Shackleton’s Legendary Antarctic Expedition.” With the American Museum of Natural History. Knopf. 1998. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

4 Apr 202235min

SYMHC Classics: Maria Sibylla Merian

SYMHC Classics: Maria Sibylla Merian

This 2017 episode covers a naturalist illustrator who helped dispel many entomological myths and improved the scientific study of insects and plants. And she did it beautifully.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

2 Apr 202227min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Hardy and the Women's March

Behind the Scenes Minis: Hardy and the Women's March

Holly and Tracy talk about their relationship with Thomas Hardy's writing, homework, and the parts of the story that didn't make it into the regular episode. Then, they talk about how surprisingly tricky it can be to research events in other cultures, even if the source material is all in English. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

1 Apr 202219min

Women’s March on Pretoria, 1956

Women’s March on Pretoria, 1956

This 1956 march was a protest against pass laws that were part of South Africa’s system of apartheid – and specifically the requirement that women carry passes. The protest was simultaneously part of the anti-apartheid movement in South Africa, and the movement for women’s rights. Research: "Apartheid." Gale World History Online Collection, Gale, 2021. Gale In Context: World History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/NUBLZL400705235/WHIC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-WHIC&xid=a66fcd94 International Women’s Day. “National Women's Day in South Africa is a powerful day for equal rights.” https://www.internationalwomensday.com/Missions/15556/National-Women-s-Day-in-South-Africa-is-a-powerful-day-for-equal-rights Akpan, Idara . “The 1956 Women’s March in Pretoria.” South African History Online. https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/1956-womens-march-pretoria South African History Online. “The 1956 Women’s March, Pretoria, 9 August.” https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/1956-womens-march-pretoria-9-august Pan Africanism Today Secretariat. “The lessons of South Africa’s 1956 Women’s March resonate to this day.” 8/9/2020. https://peoplesdispatch.org/2020/08/09/the-lessons-of-south-africas-1956-womens-march-resonate-to-this-day/ Ogola, Esther. “South Africa: The icons behind the 1956 women’s march.” BBC. https://www.bbc.com/news/av/world-africa-55106942 Till, Christopher. “Our Triumphs and Our Tears: Women’s Struggles in 20th Century South Africa.” Apartheid Museum. https://www.apartheidmuseum.org/uploads/files/Our-Triumphs-and-Our-Tears.pdf Lenser, Amber Michelle, "The South African Women's Movement: The Roles of Feminism and Multiracial Cooperation in the Struggle for Women's Rights" (2019). Theses and Dissertations. 3397. https://scholarworks.uark.edu/etd/3397 South African History Online. “Women’s Charter.” https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/womens-charter See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

30 Mar 202233min

Thomas Hardy, Emma Gifford and Florence Dugdale

Thomas Hardy, Emma Gifford and Florence Dugdale

Once you know about Hardy’s life, it's natural to see parallels to the events of his life in his writing. Two women were deeply important to his life and work: his first wife Emma Gifford, and his second wife Florence Dugdale. Research: “Max Gate.” United Kingdom National Trust. https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/max-gate Morris, Steven.”Discovery of letters shines light on Thomas Hardy's second marriage.” The Guardian. April 1, 2020. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2020/apr/02/discovery-of-letters-shines-light-on-thomas-hardys-second-marriage THOMAS, JANE. “IN DEFENCE OF EMMA HARDY.” The Hardy Society Journal, vol. 9, no. 2, Thomas Hardy Society, 2013, pp. 39–59, https://www.jstor.org/stable/48563706 Johnson, Ben. “Thomas Hardy.” Historic UK. https://www.historic-uk.com/CultureUK/Thomas-Hardy/ Fincham, Tony. “Life of Thomas Hardy.” Hardy Society. Feb. 3, 2019. https://www.hardysociety.org/life/ Richardson, Angelique. “Life behind the gates.” Times Literary Supplement. April 3, 2020. https://www.the-tls.co.uk/articles/newly-discovered-letters-thomas-hardy-wife-florence/ Tomalin, Claire. “Thomas Hardy.” Penguin. 2007. Hardy, Thomas, “Wessex Poems and Other Verses.” Macmillan. 1919. https://www.gutenberg.org/files/3167/3167-h/3167-h.htm Atkinson, Tim. “An old flame that burned bright – An Irishman’s Diary on Thomas Hardy and Emma Gifford.” Irish Times. March 2, 2020. https://www.irishtimes.com/opinion/an-old-flame-that-burned-bright-an-irishman-s-diary-on-thomas-hardy-and-emma-gifford-1.4189326 Norman, Andrew. “Thomas Hardy: Behind the Mask.” The Historic Press. 2011. “Thomas Hardy.” Poetry Foundation. https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/thomas-hardy See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

28 Mar 202238min

SYMHC Classics: 6888th Central Postal Directory Battalion

SYMHC Classics: 6888th Central Postal Directory Battalion

This 2019 episode covers the 6888th Central Postal Directory Battalion, which was part of the Women’s Army Corps during World War II. The 6888th was the only battalion of black women from the U.S. to serve in Europe during World War II.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

26 Mar 202234min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Maria and Bruno

Behind the Scenes Minis: Maria and Bruno

Tracy shares how she learned about Maria Gertrudis Barceló, and then the hosts DO talk about Bruno, and his know-it-all behavior.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

25 Mar 202218min

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