Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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In the U.S., the idea that people should know about the risks involved with the drugs that they are taking is tied directly to the complicated and often troubling history of oral contraceptives. Tracy's Research: Gutierrez, Kirsten. “Health experts: Blood clots from J&J vaccine and birth control are very different.” WRAL. 4/13/2021. https://www.wral.com/coronavirus/health-experts-blood-clots-from-j-j-vaccine-and-birth-control-are-very-different/19625592/ American Experience. “Senate Hearings on the Pill.” https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/pill-senate-holds-hearings-pill-1970/ Thomas, Robert Mcg. Jr. “Hugh J. Davis, 69, Gynecologist Who Invented Dalkon Shield.” New York Times. 10/26/1996. https://www.nytimes.com/1996/10/26/us/hugh-j-davis-69-gynecologist-who-invented-dalkon-shield.html Time. “Medicine: The Pill on Trial.” 1/26/1970. http://content.time.com/time/subscriber/article/0,33009,878746-1,00.html Gura, Trisha. “Opening Eyes.” Oberlin Alumni Magazine. Spring 2004. https://www2.oberlin.edu/alummag/spring2004/feat_eyes.html Jewish Women's Archive. "Barbara Seaman." (Viewed on April 14, 2021) <https://jwa.org/feminism/seaman-barbara>. Knowles, Jon. “The Birth Control Pill – A History.” Planned Parenthood. 2013. https://www.plannedparenthood.org/files/1213/9611/6329/pillhistory.pdf Watkins, Elizabeth Siegel. “On the Pill: A Social History of Oral Contraceptives, 1950-1970.” Johns Hopkins University Press. 1998. Fitzpatrick, Jane Brodsky. "Seaman, Barbara." The Scribner Encyclopedia of American Lives, edited by Arnold Markoe, et al., vol. 8: 2006-2008, Charles Scribner's Sons, 2010, pp. 440-441. Gale In Context: Biography, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX1347100261/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=GPS&xid=3f70d978. Accessed 14 Apr. 2021. Watkins, Elizabeth Siegel. “Expanding Consumer Information: The Origin of the Patient Package Insert.” Advancing the Consumer Interest Volume 10 Number 1 / Spring 1998. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23862430 Junod, Suzanne White and Lara Marks. “Women’s Trials: The Approval of the First Oral Contraceptive Pill n the United States and Great Britain.” Journal of the History of Medicine. Vol. 57, April 2002. Oxford University Press. O’Donnell, Kelly. “Our Doctors, Ourselves: Barbara Seaman and Popular Health.” Bulletin of the History of Medicine. Vol. 93, No. 4, Winter 2019. https://muse.jhu.edu/article/744905 Sigal, Regina. “politics of the pill.” Off Our Backs. 2/27/1970. https://www.jstor.org/stable/25770946 Blair, Sandra. “Liability of Birth Control Pill Manufacturers.” Hastings Law Journal. Vol. 23, Issue 5. 1/1972. https://repository.uchastings.edu/hastings_law_journal  Learn more about your ad-choices at https://www.iheartpodcastnetwork.comSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

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