Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Episoder(2613)

SYMHC Classics: Sarah Josepha Hale

SYMHC Classics: Sarah Josepha Hale

This 2019 episode covers Sarah Josepha Hale's well-known poetry, and her publication Godey's Lady's Book, the most popular magazine in the U.S. in the middle of the 19th century,See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

18 Nov 202334min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Mourning Dove in Context

Behind the Scenes Minis: Mourning Dove in Context

Tracy and Holly discuss elementary school experiences with Mourning Dove's work, and Tracy ponders whether her story intersected with other topics from the show. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

17 Nov 202315min

Mourning Dove, aka Christine Quintasket, Pt. 2

Mourning Dove, aka Christine Quintasket, Pt. 2

In 1916, Mourning Dove gave an interview that described the book she had written as soon to be published, but it turned out to still be years away. Part two covers the years it took to get that book published, and her life after it.  Research: American Folklore Society. “Mourning Dove (Hum-ishu-ma / Christine Quintasket).” https://notablefolkloristsofcolor.org/portfolio/mourning-dove-hum-ishu-ma-christine-quintasket/ Arnold, Laurie. “More than Mourning Dove: Christine Quintasket—Activist, Leader, Public Intellectual.” Montana The Magazine of Western History, Spring 2017, Vol. 67, No. 1. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/26322854 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “Mourning Dove's Voice in ‘Cogewea.’” Wicazo Sa Review , Autumn, 1988, Vol. 4, No. 2 (Autumn, 1988). https://www.jstor.org/stable/1409273 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “The Evolution of Mourning Dove’s Coyote Stories.” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer/Fall 1992, Series 2, Vol. 4. Via JSTOR. http://www.jstor.com/stable/20736610 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “The Evolution of Mourning Dove’s Coyote Stories.” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer/Fall 1992, Series 2, Vol. 4. Via JSTOR. http://www.jstor.com/stable/20736610 Brown, Anna Kathleen. “Reviewed Work(s): Coyote Stories by Mourning Dove and Jay Miller; Mourning Dove: A Salishan Autobiography by Jay Miller.” Studies in American Indian Literatures, Series 2, Vol. 3, No. 2. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/20736517  Center for the Study of the Pacific Northwest. “Texts by and about Natives: Commentary. 9. Christine Quintasket (Mourning Dove or Humishuma).” University of Washington. https://www.washington.edu/uwired/outreach/cspn/Website/Classroom%20Materials/Reading%20the%20Region/Texts%20by%20and%20about%20Natives/Commentary/9.html Johnson-Roehr, S.N. “Christine Quintasket.” JSTOR Daily. 10/10/2022. https://daily.jstor.org/christine-quintasket/ Karell, Linda K. “’This Story I Am Telling You Is True’: Collaboration and Literary Authority in Mourning Dove's ‘Cogewea.’” American Indian Quarterly , Autumn, 1995, Vol. 19, No. 4. https://www.jstor.org/stable/1185559 Kennedy, Kara and Sarah Werner. “Cogewea’s Blog: An Analysis of One of North America’s First Novels Written by a Female Indigenous Author.” 7/31/2010. https://cogewea.wordpress.com/ Lamont, Victoria. “Native American Oral Practice and the Popular Novel; Or, Why Mourning Dove Wrote a Western.” Source: Western American Literature , Winter 2005, Vol. 39, No. 4. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/43022337 Miller, Jay. “Mourning Dove: Editing in All Directions to "Get Real".” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer 1995, Series 2, Vol. 7, No. 2. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/20736849 Montana Outdoor Hall of Fame. “Michael Pablo 1844-1914, Charles A. Allard 1852-1896.” https://mtoutdoorhalloffame.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Charles-Allard.pdf Mourning Dove. “Coyote Stories.” Edited and illustrated by Hester Dean Guie, with notes by L.V. McWhorter (Old Wolf) and a foreword by Chief Standing Bear.” University of Nebraska Press. 1934 (Reprinted 1990). Mourning Dove. “Mourning Dove: A Salishan Autobiography.” Edited by Jay Miller. University of Nebraska Press. 1990. Nisbet, Jack and Claire. “Mourning Dove (Christine Quintasket) (ca. 1884-1936).” HistoryLink.org. 8/7/2010. https://www.historylink.org/File/9512 Spokane Spokesman-Review. “Colville Indian Girl Blazes Trail to New Conception of Redmen in Her Novel, ‘Cogewea,’ Soon to be Published.” 4/9/1916. https://www.newspapers.com/image/566560963/ Strong, Robert. “5 – The Uncooperative Primary Source: Literary Recovery versus Historical Fact in the Strange Production of Cogewea”. Keshen, Jeff, and Sylvie Perrier. Building New Bridges - Bâtir de nouveaux ponts: Sources, Methods and Interdisciplinarity - Sources, méthodes et interdisciplinarité. Ottawa: Les Presses de l’Université d’Ottawa | University of Ottawa Press, 2005. (pp. 63-72) Web. http://books.openedition.org/uop/1064. The Hill County Sunday Journal. “Kinnikinnick; What Was It? It Answered For Tobacco But Some Claim It Wasn’t. “ 9/25/1928. https://www.newspapers.com/image/958129012 S. President. “Executive orders relating to Indian reservations : from May 14, 1855 to July 1, 1912.” Washington. 2012. https://archive.org/details/cu31924097621753/page/n206/mode/1up See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

15 Nov 202337min

Mourning Dove, aka Christine Quintasket, Pt. 1

Mourning Dove, aka Christine Quintasket, Pt. 1

Mourning Dove was an activist, ethnographer and novelist, and one of the first, if not the first, Indigenous women in the U.S. to publish a novel. Part one covers the Confederated Tribes of the Colville Reservation and her early career. Research: American Folklore Society. “Mourning Dove (Hum-ishu-ma / Christine Quintasket).” https://notablefolkloristsofcolor.org/portfolio/mourning-dove-hum-ishu-ma-christine-quintasket/ Arnold, Laurie. “More than Mourning Dove: Christine Quintasket—Activist, Leader, Public Intellectual.” Montana The Magazine of Western History, Spring 2017, Vol. 67, No. 1. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/26322854 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “Mourning Dove's Voice in ‘Cogewea.’” Wicazo Sa Review , Autumn, 1988, Vol. 4, No. 2 (Autumn, 1988). https://www.jstor.org/stable/1409273 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “The Evolution of Mourning Dove’s Coyote Stories.” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer/Fall 1992, Series 2, Vol. 4. Via JSTOR. http://www.jstor.com/stable/20736610 Brown, Alanna Kathleen. “The Evolution of Mourning Dove’s Coyote Stories.” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer/Fall 1992, Series 2, Vol. 4. Via JSTOR. http://www.jstor.com/stable/20736610 Brown, Anna Kathleen. “Reviewed Work(s): Coyote Stories by Mourning Dove and Jay Miller; Mourning Dove: A Salishan Autobiography by Jay Miller.” Studies in American Indian Literatures, Series 2, Vol. 3, No. 2. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/20736517  Center for the Study of the Pacific Northwest. “Texts by and about Natives: Commentary. 9. Christine Quintasket (Mourning Dove or Humishuma).” University of Washington. https://www.washington.edu/uwired/outreach/cspn/Website/Classroom%20Materials/Reading%20the%20Region/Texts%20by%20and%20about%20Natives/Commentary/9.html Johnson-Roehr, S.N. “Christine Quintasket.” JSTOR Daily. 10/10/2022. https://daily.jstor.org/christine-quintasket/ Karell, Linda K. “’This Story I Am Telling You Is True’: Collaboration and Literary Authority in Mourning Dove's ‘Cogewea.’” American Indian Quarterly , Autumn, 1995, Vol. 19, No. 4. https://www.jstor.org/stable/1185559 Kennedy, Kara and Sarah Werner. “Cogewea’s Blog: An Analysis of One of North America’s First Novels Written by a Female Indigenous Author.” 7/31/2010. https://cogewea.wordpress.com/ Lamont, Victoria. “Native American Oral Practice and the Popular Novel; Or, Why Mourning Dove Wrote a Western.” Source: Western American Literature , Winter 2005, Vol. 39, No. 4. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/43022337 Miller, Jay. “Mourning Dove: Editing in All Directions to "Get Real".” Studies in American Indian Literatures , Summer 1995, Series 2, Vol. 7, No. 2. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/20736849 Montana Outdoor Hall of Fame. “Michael Pablo 1844-1914, Charles A. Allard 1852-1896.” https://mtoutdoorhalloffame.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Charles-Allard.pdf Mourning Dove. “Coyote Stories.” Edited and illustrated by Hester Dean Guie, with notes by L.V. McWhorter (Old Wolf) and a foreword by Chief Standing Bear.” University of Nebraska Press. 1934 (Reprinted 1990). Mourning Dove. “Mourning Dove: A Salishan Autobiography.” Edited by Jay Miller. University of Nebraska Press. 1990. Nisbet, Jack and Claire. “Mourning Dove (Christine Quintasket) (ca. 1884-1936).” HistoryLink.org. 8/7/2010. https://www.historylink.org/File/9512 Spokane Spokesman-Review. “Colville Indian Girl Blazes Trail to New Conception of Redmen in Her Novel, ‘Cogewea,’ Soon to be Published.” 4/9/1916. https://www.newspapers.com/image/566560963/ Strong, Robert. “5 – The Uncooperative Primary Source: Literary Recovery versus Historical Fact in the Strange Production of Cogewea”. Keshen, Jeff, and Sylvie Perrier. Building New Bridges - Bâtir de nouveaux ponts: Sources, Methods and Interdisciplinarity - Sources, méthodes et interdisciplinarité. Ottawa: Les Presses de l’Université d’Ottawa | University of Ottawa Press, 2005. (pp. 63-72) Web. http://books.openedition.org/uop/1064. The Hill County Sunday Journal. “Kinnikinnick; What Was It? It Answered For Tobacco But Some Claim It Wasn’t. “ 9/25/1928. https://www.newspapers.com/image/958129012 S. President. “Executive orders relating to Indian reservations : from May 14, 1855 to July 1, 1912.” Washington. 2012. https://archive.org/details/cu31924097621753/page/n206/mode/1up See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

13 Nov 202332min

SYMHC Classics: Diving Technology

SYMHC Classics: Diving Technology

This 2015 episode examines that humans have always longed to explore underwater, but need to breathe air. From as far back as the 4th century B.C.E., clever inventors have been designing technology to give us face time with the creatures of the sea.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

11 Nov 202322min

Behind the Scenes Minis: The Empress and the Queen

Behind the Scenes Minis: The Empress and the Queen

Tracy shares her cat’s input on the Empress of Ireland outline. She and Holly also discuss the relatability of Mary Somerville’s writing.  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

10 Nov 202319min

Mary Somerville

Mary Somerville

Mary Somerville was dubbed the Queen of Science, a title earned through a lifetime of learning all she could about various math and science subjects and then parsing those concepts out in her writing for more general audiences. Research: Collins, Helen. “Mary Somerville: Her Legacy for Women in Science.” Oxford Scientist. Feb. 11, 2022. https://oxsci.org/mary-somerville-her-legacy-for-women-in-science/ Gregersen, Erik. "Mary Somerville". Encyclopedia Britannica, 22 Dec. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Mary-Somerville Neeley, Kathryn A. “Mary Somerville: Science, Illumination, and the Female Mind.” Cambridge University Press. 2001. Somerville, Mary. “On the magnetizing power of the more refrangible solar rays.” Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. December 31, 1833. Volume 2. Accessed online: https://royalsocietypublishing.org/doi/abs/10.1098/rspl.1815.0282 Somerville, Mary. “Personal Recollections, from Early Life to Old Age, of Mary Somerville.” John Murray, London. 1872. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/27747/pg27747-images.html Somerville, Mary. “On Molecular and Microscopic Science.” John Murray. London. 1869. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/55886/pg55886-images.html Uri, John. “175 Years Ago: Astronomers Discover Neptune, the Eighth Planet.” NASA. Sept. 21, 2021. https://www.nasa.gov/history/175-years-ago-astronomers-discover-neptune-the-eighth-planet/#:~:text=On%20the%20night%20of%20Sept,orbit%20of%20the%20planet%20Uranus. Wills, Matthew. “Mary Somerville, Queen of 19th Century Science.” JSTOR Daily. March 2, 2016. https://daily.jstor.org/mary-somerville-queen-of-19th-century-science/ Lewis, Jone Johnson. "Biography of Mary Somerville, Mathematician, Scientist, and Writer." ThoughtCo, Apr. 5, 2023, thoughtco.com/mary-somerville-biography-3530354.  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

8 Nov 202334min

The Empress of Ireland

The Empress of Ireland

The shipwreck of the Empress of Ireland happened just before the start of World War I and was the worst maritime disaster in Canadian history to happen during peacetime. Research: Blatchford, Andy. “Empress of Ireland, ‘Canada’s Titanic,’ finally getting its due after 100 years.” Globe and Mail. 5/23/2014. https://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/empress-of-ireland-canadas-titanic-finally-getting-its-due-after-100-years/article18819164/ Boyd, Ellsworth. “Empress of Ireland was ‘Canada’s Titanic.’” NUMA. 10/9/2017. https://numa.net/2017/10/empress-of-ireland-was-canadas-titanic/ Butler, Don. “Museum of Civilization finally acquires Empress of Ireland collection.” Ottawa Citizen. 10/27/2012. https://ottawacitizen.com/news/ottawa%20&%20area/museum-of-civilization-finally-acquires-empress-of-ireland-collection Canadian Pacific Railway Company. “Atlantic Royal Mail Service – ‘The Empresses’.” 1906. https://archive.org/details/cihm_71926/ “Empress of Ireland.” From “Lost Liners” by Robert D. Ballard and Rick Archbold, Madison Press Books. Via PBS. https://www.pbs.org/lostliners/empress.html Empress of Ireland Commemoration. “The Forgotten Tragedy.” Pointe-au-Pere Site Historique Maritime. http://www.empress2014.ca/seclangen/home.html Fry, Krsiten. “Saving the Empress's treasures.” Beaver. Apr/May2008, Vol. 88 Issue 2, p10-11. Hertz, Kayla. “On this day: The Empress of Ireland, 'Canada's Titanic,' sinks in 1914.” Irish Central. 5/29/2022. https://www.irishcentral.com/roots/history/empress-of-ireland-sinking Marshall, Logan. “The tragic story of the Empress of Ireland; an authentic account of the most horrible disaster in Canadian history, constructed from the real facts obtained from those on board who survived and other great sea disasters, containing the statements of Captain Henry George Kendall, commanding the Empress of Ireland and Captain Thomas Andersen, commanding the Storstad.” Philadelphia Printed by John C. Winston. 1914. https://archive.org/details/tragicstoryofemp00marsuoft Mersey, John C. Bigham (John Charles Bigham). “Report of Commission of Inquiry into the casualty to the British steamship 'Empress of Ireland,' which sunk after collision with the Norwegian steamer 'Storstad' in the River St. Lawrence, on 29th May 1914.” 1914. https://archive.org/details/op1256477-1001/mode/2up National Museums of Liverpool. “Empress of Ireland Disaster.” https://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/maritime-museum/empress-of-ireland-disaster “Report and Evidence of the Commission of Inquiry into the Loss of the British Steamship ‘Empress of Irelnad.’” From “Sessional papers of the Dominion of Canada 1915.” Canadian Parliament. 1914. https://archive.org/details/n16sessionalpaper50canauoft/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

6 Nov 202335min

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