Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Episoder(2613)

SYMHC Classics: Death of Poe

SYMHC Classics: Death of Poe

This 2012 episode from previous hosts Sarah and Deblina covers the unusual circumstances surrounding Edgar Allan Poe's disappearance, reappearance, and death. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

7 Okt 202331min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Gothic All Week

Behind the Scenes Minis: Gothic All Week

Holly and Tracy talk about college experiences with Gothic literature, and modern analysis of Ann Radcliffe's work.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

6 Okt 202314min

Ann Radcliffe, Gothic Great Enchantress, Part 2

Ann Radcliffe, Gothic Great Enchantress, Part 2

Once Ann Radcliffe retired from publishing, all kinds of rumors started to spread about her, including some that distressed her greatly. After she died, there was even more speculation. Research: Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ann Radcliffe". Encyclopedia Britannica, 5 Jul. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ann-Radcliffe-English-author Radcliffe, Ann. “The Romance of the Forest, interspersed with some pieces of poetry.” London. 1824. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/64701/pg64701-images.html Radcliffe, Ann. “Gaston de Blondeville: Or The Court of Henry III. Keeping Festival in Ardenne, a Romance. St. Alban's Abbey, a Metrical Tale: with Some Poetical Pieces, Volume 1.” H. Colburn. 1826. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=vi03AAAAIAAJ&rdid=book-vi03AAAAIAAJ&rdot=1 Radcliffe, Ann. “A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, Through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, With a Return Down the Rhine: To Which Are Added Observations During a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland and Cumberland, in Two Volumes.” G.G. and Robinson. London. 1795. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/62795/pg62795-images.html Facer, Ruth. “Ann Radcliffe (1764-1823).” Chawton House Library. 2012. http://www.chawtonhouse.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Ann-Radcliffe.pdf Dugdale, John. “Happy 250th, Ann Radcliffe.” The Guardian. Oct. 31, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/oct/31/ann-radcliffe-gothic-pioneer-snubbed-horace-walpole-the-castle-of-oronto-250-years-celebrations#:~:text=Another%20250th%20anniversary%2C%20of%20Ann,sent%20up%20in%20Northanger%20Abbey. Flood, Allison. “Gothic fiction pioneer Ann Radcliffe may have been inspired by mother-in-law.” The Guardian. Jan. 30, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/jan/30/ann-radcliffe-gothic-fiction-mother-in-law McIntyre, Clara Frances. “Anne Radcliffe in Relation to her Time.” Yale University Press. 1920. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/annradcliffeinre00mcinuoft/page/n3/mode/2up “Mr. Radcliffe … “ Sunday Dispatch/ London. October 30, 1825. https://www.newspapers.com/image/813446539/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 McKillop, Alan D. “Mrs. Radcliffe on the Supernatural in Poetry.” The Journal of English and Germanic Philology, vol. 31, no. 3, 1932, pp. 352–59. JSTOR. http://www.jstor.org/stable/27703650 Clarke, N. (2005). Anna Seward: Swan, Duckling or Goose?. In: Batchelor, J., Kaplan, C. (eds) British Women’s Writing in the Long Eighteenth Century. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230595972_3 Norton, Rictor. “Mistress of Udolpho.” Leicester University Press. 1999. Thomas, Donald. “Queen of Terrors.” The Guardian. July 10, 1964. https://www.newspapers.com/image/259612656/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 Townshend, D., & Wright, A. (2014). Gothic and Romantic engagements The critical reception of Ann Radcliffe, 1789–1850. In D. Townshend & A. Wright (Eds.), Ann Radcliffe, Romanticism and the Gothic (pp. 3-32). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. doi:10.1017/CBO9781139507448.003 Schwertfeger, S. 'No spoilers, please': the crux of illustrating the explained Gothic without explaining the mystery. Palgrave Commun3, 16 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-017-0018-z Scott, Sir Walter. “The Lives of the Novelists.” London. 1906. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdid=book-DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdot=1 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

4 Okt 202337min

Ann Radcliffe, Gothic Great Enchantress, Part 1

Ann Radcliffe, Gothic Great Enchantress, Part 1

In the space of a decade, Ann Radcliffe married, started writing, and had an incredibly successful career as an author. But after her 1797 novel, she retired, much to the confusion of her readers.  Research:  Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ann Radcliffe". Encyclopedia Britannica, 5 Jul. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ann-Radcliffe-English-author Radcliffe, Ann. “The Romance of the Forest, interspersed with some pieces of poetry.” London. 1824. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/64701/pg64701-images.html Radcliffe, Ann. “Gaston de Blondeville: Or The Court of Henry III. Keeping Festival in Ardenne, a Romance. St. Alban's Abbey, a Metrical Tale: with Some Poetical Pieces, Volume 1.” H. Colburn. 1826. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=vi03AAAAIAAJ&rdid=book-vi03AAAAIAAJ&rdot=1 Radcliffe, Ann. “A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, Through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, With a Return Down the Rhine: To Which Are Added Observations During a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland and Cumberland, in Two Volumes.” G.G. and Robinson. London. 1795. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/62795/pg62795-images.html Facer, Ruth. “Ann Radcliffe (1764-1823).” Chawton House Library. 2012. http://www.chawtonhouse.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Ann-Radcliffe.pdf Dugdale, John. “Happy 250th, Ann Radcliffe.” The Guardian. Oct. 31, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/oct/31/ann-radcliffe-gothic-pioneer-snubbed-horace-walpole-the-castle-of-oronto-250-years-celebrations#:~:text=Another%20250th%20anniversary%2C%20of%20Ann,sent%20up%20in%20Northanger%20Abbey. Flood, Allison. “Gothic fiction pioneer Ann Radcliffe may have been inspired by mother-in-law.” The Guardian. Jan. 30, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/jan/30/ann-radcliffe-gothic-fiction-mother-in-law McIntyre, Clara Frances. “Anne Radcliffe in Relation to her Time.” Yale University Press. 1920. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/annradcliffeinre00mcinuoft/page/n3/mode/2up “Mr. Radcliffe … “ Sunday Dispatch/ London. October 30, 1825. https://www.newspapers.com/image/813446539/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 McKillop, Alan D. “Mrs. Radcliffe on the Supernatural in Poetry.” The Journal of English and Germanic Philology, vol. 31, no. 3, 1932, pp. 352–59. JSTOR. http://www.jstor.org/stable/27703650 Clarke, N. (2005). Anna Seward: Swan, Duckling or Goose?. In: Batchelor, J., Kaplan, C. (eds) British Women’s Writing in the Long Eighteenth Century. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230595972_3 Norton, Rictor. “Mistress of Udolpho.” Leicester University Press. 1999. Thomas, Donald. “Queen of Terrors.” The Guardian. July 10, 1964. https://www.newspapers.com/image/259612656/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 Townshend, D., & Wright, A. (2014). Gothic and Romantic engagements The critical reception of Ann Radcliffe, 1789–1850. In D. Townshend & A. Wright (Eds.), Ann Radcliffe, Romanticism and the Gothic(pp. 3-32). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. doi:10.1017/CBO9781139507448.003 Schwertfeger, S. 'No spoilers, please': the crux of illustrating the explained Gothic without explaining the mystery. Palgrave Commun3, 16 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-017-0018-z Scott, Sir Walter. “The Lives of the Novelists.” London. 1906. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdid=book-DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdot=1 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

2 Okt 202332min

SYMHC Classics: Mother Shipton

SYMHC Classics: Mother Shipton

This 2020 episode covers Mother Shipton, who may or may not have been a real person. She's described as everything from an oracle to a witch to the daughter of the devil, depending on which of the many sources you’re reading.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

30 Sep 202334min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Sad Clowns, Sad Trees

Behind the Scenes Minis: Sad Clowns, Sad Trees

Tracy talks about how Grimaldi's memoirs read more like a Dickens novel than a source of biographical information. Then, Holly and Tracy talk about plant diseases. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

29 Sep 202323min

Eponymous Foods – Autumn Apple Edition

Eponymous Foods – Autumn Apple Edition

The eponymous Bramley and McIntosh apples are both lucky accidents, and both of them have stories which stretch from the early 19th century into present day.  Research: Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ann Radcliffe". Encyclopedia Britannica, 5 Jul. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ann-Radcliffe-English-author Radcliffe, Ann. “The Romance of the Forest, interspersed with some pieces of poetry.” London. 1824. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/64701/pg64701-images.html Facer, Ruth. “Ann Radcliffe (1764-1823).” Chawton House Library. 2012. http://www.chawtonhouse.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Ann-Radcliffe.pdf Dugdale, John. “Happy 250th, Ann Radcliffe.” The Guardian. Oct. 31, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/oct/31/ann-radcliffe-gothic-pioneer-snubbed-horace-walpole-the-castle-of-oronto-250-years-celebrations#:~:text=Another%20250th%20anniversary%2C%20of%20Ann,sent%20up%20in%20Northanger%20Abbey. Flood, Allison. “Gothic fiction pioneer Ann Radcliffe may have been inspired by mother-in-law.” The Guardian. Jan. 30, 2014. https://www.theguardian.com/books/2014/jan/30/ann-radcliffe-gothic-fiction-mother-in-law “Mr. Radcliffe … “ Sunday Dispatch/ London. October 30, 1825. https://www.newspapers.com/image/813446539/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 Clarke, N. (2005). Anna Seward: Swan, Duckling or Goose?. In: Batchelor, J., Kaplan, C. (eds) British Women’s Writing in the Long Eighteenth Century. Palgrave Macmillan, London. https://doi.org/10.1057/9780230595972_3 Norton, Rictor. “Mistress of Udolpho.” Leicester University Press. 1999. Thomas, Donald. “Queen of Terrors.” The Guardian. July 10, 1964. https://www.newspapers.com/image/259612656/?terms=%22Ann%20Radcliffe%22&match=1 Townshend, D., & Wright, A. (2014). Gothic and Romantic engagements The critical reception of Ann Radcliffe, 1789–1850. In D. Townshend & A. Wright (Eds.), Ann Radcliffe, Romanticism and the Gothic(pp. 3-32). Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. doi:10.1017/CBO9781139507448.003 Schwertfeger, S. 'No spoilers, please': the crux of illustrating the explained Gothic without explaining the mystery. Palgrave Commun3, 16 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-017-0018-z Scott, Sir Walter. “The Lives of the Novelists.” London. 1906. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdid=book-DXPPAAAAMAAJ&rdot=1 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Sep 202335min

Joseph Grimaldi, the First Modern Clown

Joseph Grimaldi, the First Modern Clown

Joseph Grimaldi was one of England’s most famous Regency-era entertainers. Sometimes he’s described as the first modern clown, because he established a lot of the hallmarks of clowning that still exist today.  Research: Boyle, Laura. “Joseph Grimaldi, King of Clowns.” Jane Austen Centre. 4/14/2014. https://janeausten.co.uk/blogs/uncategorized/joseph-grimaldi-king-clowns Grimaldi, Joseph. “Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi.” Edited by Charles Dickens (“Boz”), illustrated by George Cruikshank. London, George Routledge and Sons. 1838. Kaplan, Charles. “The Only Native British Art Form.” The Antioch Review , Summer, 1984, Vol. 42, No. 3, "Divine Goalie" Sport and Religion (Summer, 1984). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/461136 Moody, Jane. "Grimaldi, Joseph [Joe] (1778–1837), actor and pantomimist." Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. May 29, 2014. Oxford University Press. Date of access 7 Sep. 2023, https://www.oxforddnb.com/view/10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001/odnb-9780198614128-e-11630 Read, Leslie du S. "Grimaldi, Joseph [Giuseppe] (1709x16?–1788), dancer and dentist." Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. September 23, 2004. Oxford University Press. Date of access 7 Sep. 2023, https://www.oxforddnb.com/view/10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001/odnb-9780198614128-e-64341 Simon, Ed. “Here We Are Again!—How Joseph Grimaldi Invented the Creepy Clown.” JSTOR Daily. 5/4/2022. https://daily.jstor.org/here-we-are-again-how-joseph-grimaldi-invented-the-creepy-clown/ Stott, Andrew McConnell. “Clowns on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown: Dickens, Coulrophobia, and the Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi.” Journal for Early Modern Cultural Studies, Vol. 12, No. 4 (Fall 2012). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/26899534 Stott, Andrew McConnell. “The Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi.” The Public Domain Review. 11/14/2011. https://publicdomainreview.org/essay/the-memoirs-of-joseph-grimaldi/ Stott, Andrew McConnell. “The Pantomime Life of Joseph Grimaldi: Laughter, Madness and the Story of Britain’s Greatest Comedian.” Canongate. 2010. Woods, Leigh. “The Curse of Performance: Inscripting the ‘Memoirs of Joseph Grimaldi’ into the Life of Charles Dickens.” Biography , Spring 1991, Vol. 14, No. 2 (Spring 1991). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23539893 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

25 Sep 202337min

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