Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Episoder(2627)

Caroline Sheridan Norton, Part 2

Caroline Sheridan Norton, Part 2

After Caroline Sheridan Norton’s husband once again tried to destroy her life, she lobbied for another change in English law. This time, she worked to gain equal legal treatment for women in divorces. Research:   Reynolds, K. D. "Norton [née Sheridan], Caroline Elizabeth Sarah [other married name Caroline Elizabeth Sarah Stirling Maxwell, Lady Stirling Maxwell] (1808–1877), author and law reform campaigner." Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.  25. Oxford University Press. Date of access 20 Mar. 2023, <https://www.oxforddnb.com/view/10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001/odnb-9780198614128-e-20339 Oliphant, Margaret, et al. “Women Novelists of Queen Victoria's Reign - A Book of Appreciations.” Ballantyne. 1897. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/36641/pg36641.txt Norton, Caroline. “A LETTER TO THE QUEEN ON LORD CHANCELLOR CRANWORTH'S MARRIAGE AND DIVORCE BILL.” Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans. London. 1855. Accessed oline: https://digital.library.upenn.edu/women/norton/alttq/alttq.html “NORTON, CAROLINE (1808–1877).” English Heritage. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/blue-plaques/caroline-norton/ Holmes, Ann Sumner. “The Double Standard in the English Divorce Laws, 1857–1923.” Law & Social Inquiry, vol. 20, no. 2, 1995, pp. 601–620., doi:10.1111/j.1747-4469.1995.tb01071.x. Langley, Samuel. “The Laureateship.” Daily News. May 15, 1850. https://www.newspapers.com/image/390815598/?terms=%22Caroline%20Norton%22&match=1 Abramowicz, Sarah. “English Child Custody Law, 1660-1839: The Origins of Judicial Intervention in Paternal Custody.” Columbia Law Review, vol. 99, no. 5, 1999, pp. 1344–92. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1123459 Diane, Atkinson. “The Criminal Conversation of Mrs. Norton.” London. Preface Publishing. 2012. Norton, Caroline Sheridan. “A Plain Letter to the Lord Chancellor on the Infant Custody Bill.” London. 1839. Accessed online through Indiana University: https://webapp1.dlib.indiana.edu/vwwp/view?docId=VAB7126&chunk.id=d1e495&toc.id=&brand=vwwp;query=#docView Tomalin, Claire. “Several Strangers: Writing from Three Decades.” Viking. 1999. Forster, Margaret. “Significant Sisters: The Grassroots of Active Feminism, 1839-1939.” Vintage Books. 2004. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Caroline Norton". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Jun. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Caroline-Norton Norton, C.N. “ENGLISH LAWS FOR WOMEN IN The Nineteenth Century.” London. 1854. Accessed online through University of Pennsylvania: http://digital.library.upenn.edu/women/norton/elfw/elfw.html See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

5 Apr 202332min

Caroline Sheridan Norton, Part 1

Caroline Sheridan Norton, Part 1

Caroline Sheridan Norton’s left an abusive marriage in 1835. She then turned her skill as a writer into a lobby for legislation that would enable mothers in England to get custody of their young children. Research: Reynolds, K. D. "Norton [née Sheridan], Caroline Elizabeth Sarah [other married name Caroline Elizabeth Sarah Stirling Maxwell, Lady Stirling Maxwell] (1808–1877), author and law reform campaigner." Oxford Dictionary of National Biography.  25. Oxford University Press. Date of access 20 Mar. 2023, <https://www.oxforddnb.com/view/10.1093/ref:odnb/9780198614128.001.0001/odnb-9780198614128-e-20339 Oliphant, Margaret, et al. “Women Novelists of Queen Victoria's Reign - A Book of Appreciations.” Ballantyne. 1897. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/36641/pg36641.txt Norton, Caroline. “A LETTER TO THE QUEEN ON LORD CHANCELLOR CRANWORTH'S MARRIAGE AND DIVORCE BILL.” Longman, Brown, Green and Longmans. London. 1855. Accessed oline: https://digital.library.upenn.edu/women/norton/alttq/alttq.html “NORTON, CAROLINE (1808–1877).” English Heritage. https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/blue-plaques/caroline-norton/ Holmes, Ann Sumner. “The Double Standard in the English Divorce Laws, 1857–1923.” Law & Social Inquiry, vol. 20, no. 2, 1995, pp. 601–620., doi:10.1111/j.1747-4469.1995.tb01071.x. Langley, Samuel. “The Laureateship.” Daily News. May 15, 1850. https://www.newspapers.com/image/390815598/?terms=%22Caroline%20Norton%22&match=1 Abramowicz, Sarah. “English Child Custody Law, 1660-1839: The Origins of Judicial Intervention in Paternal Custody.” Columbia Law Review, vol. 99, no. 5, 1999, pp. 1344–92. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1123459 Diane, Atkinson. “The Criminal Conversation of Mrs. Norton.” London. Preface Publishing. 2012. Norton, Caroline Sheridan. “A Plain Letter to the Lord Chancellor on the Infant Custody Bill.” London. 1839. Accessed online through Indiana University: https://webapp1.dlib.indiana.edu/vwwp/view?docId=VAB7126&chunk.id=d1e495&toc.id=&brand=vwwp;query=#docView Tomalin, Claire. “Several Strangers: Writing from Three Decades.” Viking. 1999. Forster, Margaret. “Significant Sisters: The Grassroots of Active Feminism, 1839-1939.” Vintage Books. 2004. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Caroline Norton". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Jun. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Caroline-Norton Norton, C.N. “ENGLISH LAWS FOR WOMEN IN The Nineteenth Century.” London. 1854. Accessed online through University of Pennsylvania: http://digital.library.upenn.edu/women/norton/elfw/elfw.html See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

3 Apr 202332min

SYMHC Classics: Tiara of Saitafernes

SYMHC Classics: Tiara of Saitafernes

This 2019 episode the tale of an elaborate hoax. It starts with the Scythians and how their artifacts became highly prized in 19th century Europe, and ends with an artist who came into fame as a result of his part in a forgery.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

1 Apr 202329min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Trees and Jennie June

Behind the Scenes Minis: Trees and Jennie June

Holly and Tracy talk about their relationship to trees, and how humankind's understanding of climate science has changed over the years. They also talk about the continuing relevance of Jennie June's life story. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

31 Mar 202322min

The Autobiographies of Earl Lind - Ralph Werther - Jennie June

The Autobiographies of Earl Lind - Ralph Werther - Jennie June

Earl Lind, Ralph Werther, and Jennie June were all pseudonyms of the same person, who wrote what are sometimes described as the first autobiographies of a transgender person ever published in the West. Research: “Lost transgender memoir from 1921 discovered by Drexel researcher” (2010, October 13) retrieved 13 March 2023 from https://phys.org/news/2010-10-lost-transgendermemoir-1921-drexel.html Book Notes. “The American Journal of Psychology, Vol. 30, No. 2 (Apr., 1919).” https://www.jstor.org/stable/1414118 Ellis, Havelock. “Eonism and other supplementary studies.” F.A. Davis. 1928. Gearhardt, Nan. “Rethinking Trans History and Gay History in Early Twentieth-Century New York.” QED: A Journal in GLBTQ Worldmaking , Vol. 6, No. 1 (Spring 2019). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.14321/qed.6.1.0026 Joseph, Channing Gerard. “Who Was Jennie June?” OutHistory. 10/10/2022. https://outhistory.org/exhibits/show/wwjj/wwjj2 Lind, Earl. “Autobiography of an Androgyne.” Edited by Alfred W. Herzog. The Medico-Legal Journal. 1918. https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/67711/pg67711-images.html Meyerowitz, Joanne. “Thinking Sex with an Androgyne.” GLQ: A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Volume 17, Number 1, 2011. Via Project Muse. https://muse.jhu.edu/article/409154 Peterson, Jules-Gill. “Histories of the Transgender Child.” University of Minnesota Press. 2018. Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “Boy – But Never Man.” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Volume 15. No. 3. March 1919. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1519unse/ Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “Protest from an Androgyne.” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Volume 15. No. 7. July 1919. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1519unse/ Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “The Fairie Boy (An Autobiographical Sketch).” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Vol. 14. No. 10. October 1918. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1419unse Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “The Female Impersonator.” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Volume 15. No. 6. June 1919. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1519unse/ Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “The Girl-boy’s Suicide.” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Vol. 14. No. 11. November 1918. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1419unse/ Ralph Werther - Jennie June. “The Sorrows of Jennie June.” The American Journal of Urology and Sexology. Volume 15. No. 4. April 1919. https://archive.org/details/americanjournalo1519unse/ Schroth, Peter W. et al. “Perspectives on Law and Medicine Relating to Transgender People in the United States.” The American Journal of Comparative Law, 2018, Vol. 66. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2307/26497456 Shaheen, Aaron. “Strolling through the Slums of the Past: Ralph Werther's Love Affair with Victorian Womanhood in ‘Autobiography of an Androgyne.’” PMLA , October 2013, Vol. 128, No. 4 (October 2013). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/23489164 Werther, Ralph. “The female-impersonators.” Edited by Alfred W. Herzog. The Medico-Legal Journal. 1922. https://www.gutenberg.org/cache/epub/70019/pg70019-images.html Werther, Ralph. “The Riddle of the Underworld.” Via OutHistory. https://outhistory.org/exhibits/show/earllind23/manuscript See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

29 Mar 202339min

Author Interview: John Perlin 'A Forest Journey'

Author Interview: John Perlin 'A Forest Journey'

Holly is joined by John Perlin, author of "A Forest Journey: The Role of Trees in the Fate of Civilization,” to talk about the ways that human development and survival depends on the health of the planet’s forests.   See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Mar 202347min

SYMHC Classics: Year Without a Summer

SYMHC Classics: Year Without a Summer

The 2015 episode covers a volcano eruption in Sumbawa, Indonesia in 1816, that combined with several other factors to create an unusual -- and catastrophic -- series of weather events. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

25 Mar 202326min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Theater and Thrill Rides

Behind the Scenes Minis: Theater and Thrill Rides

Holly and Tracy dig into the role of Augustin Daly's brother in his life, including a legal battle over Augustin's will. Then they talk about roller coaster experiences and the idea of fear as entertainment.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

24 Mar 202323min

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