Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Episoder(2627)

G. K. Chesterton’s Fight Against Eugenics

G. K. Chesterton’s Fight Against Eugenics

G.K. Chesterton was a prolific writer across many genres, including fiction, poetry, journalism, literary criticism, biography, social criticism, theology, and Christian apologetics. He was also a vocal critic of eugenics. Research: "Chesterton, G.K." Merriam Webster's Encyclopedia of Literature, Merriam-Webster, 1995. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/RN1480001897/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=d75f28d6. Accessed 21 Feb. 2023. Schwartz, Adam. "Conceiving a culture of life in a century of bones: G. K. Chesterton and Malcolm Muggeridge as social critics." Logos: A Journal of Catholic Thought and Culture, vol. 11, no. 2, spring 2008, pp. 50+. Gale Academic OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A370214476/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=f9d4a07a. Accessed 21 Feb. 2023. Eden, Dawn. "Thursday's Father; The cosmos in the mind of G.K. Chesterton." The Weekly Standard, vol. 15, no. 47, 30 Aug. 2010. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A236124464/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=9747e015. Accessed 21 Feb. 2023. Douglas, J.D. “G.K. Chesterton, the Eccentric Prince of Paradox.” Christianity Today. 5/24/1974, republished 8/1/2001. https://www.christianitytoday.com/ct/2001/augustweb-only/8-27-52.0.html?paging=off#bmb=1 "The Inklings." Twentieth-Century Literary Criticism, edited by Kathy D. Darrow, vol. 258, Gale, 2012. Gale Literature Resource Center, link.gale.com/apps/doc/GEDIQJ153565504/LitRC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-LitRC&xid=52d0152e. Accessed 22 Feb. 2023. Bergonzi, Bernard. "Chesterton, Gilbert Keith [G. K. C.] (1874–1936), writer." Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Oxford University Press. Date of access 22 Feb. 2023. https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/32392          McDonagh, Melanie. "No saint: G.K. Chesterton was a great journalist, not an angel." Spectator, vol. 322, no. 9652, 24 Aug. 2013, pp. 22+. Gale Literature Resource Center, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A340576384/LitRC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-LitRC&xid=2c4fc00f. Accessed 22 Feb. 2023. "G(ilbert) K(eith) Chesterton." Gale Literature: Contemporary Authors, Gale, 2004. Gale Literature Resource Center, link.gale.com/apps/doc/H1000017634/LitRC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-LitRC&xid=6ef03f18. Accessed 22 Feb. 2023. Douglas, James. “Personality in Literature.” The Bookman. July 1903. Kenney, W. P. "G(ilbert) K(eith) Chesterton." Late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth-Century British Literary Biographers, edited by Steven Serafin, Gale, 1995. Dictionary of Literary Biography Vol. 149. Gale Literature Resource Center, link.gale.com/apps/doc/H1200006044/LitRC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-LitRC&xid=8bdae33c. Accessed 22 Feb. 2023. Leitch, Thomas M. "G(ilbert) K(eith) Chesterton." British Mystery Writers, 1860-1919, edited by Bernard Benstock and Thomas F. Staley, Gale, 1988. Dictionary of Literary Biography Vol. 70. Gale Literature Resource Center, link.gale.com/apps/doc/H1200002585/LitRC?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-LitRC&xid=5e778e84. Accessed 22 Feb. 2023. Schwartz, Adam. “G.K. Chesterton’s Jewish Problem.” VII: Journal of the Marion E. Wade Center , 2017, Vol. 34 (2017). : https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2307/48600516 Fraga, Brian. “Group promoting author GK Chesterton faces turmoil over right-wing connections.” National Catholic Reporter. 2/20/2023. https://www.ncronline.org/news/group-promoting-author-gk-chesterton-faces-turmoil-over-right-wing-connections Kimball, Roger. “G. K. Chesterton: master of rejuvenation.” The New Criterion September 2011. Chesterton, G.K. “Eugenics and Other Evils.” Cassell and Company, Limited London, New York, Toronto & Melbourne 1922. Sparkes, Russell. “The Enemy of Eugenics.” https://archive.secondspring.co.uk/articles/sparkes.htm See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

8 Mar 202345min

Balloons of World War II

Balloons of World War II

We’ve gotten requests to talk about the balloon bombs that Japan used to target North America during World War II. But these were not the only balloons in use during the war, or the first balloons used for military purposes. Research: Barnett, Glenn. “Another Way to Bomb Germany.” Warfare History Network. June 2021. https://warfarehistorynetwork.com/article/another-way-to-bomb-germany/ Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "airship". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Feb. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/technology/airship. Accessed 15 February 2023. Czekanski, Tom. “Museum Acquires Item Related to the First African American Unit in Normandy.” National World War II Museum. 2/1/2020. https://www.nationalww2museum.org/war/articles/museum-acquires-item-related-first-african-american-unit-normandy Drapeau, Raoul E. “Operation Outward: Britain’s World War II offensive balloons.” IEEE Power and Energy Magazine. September/October 2011. https://site.ieee.org/ny-monitor/files/2011/09/OPERATION-OUTWARD.pdf Juillerat, Lee. “Balloon Bombs.” Oregon Encyclopedia. https://www.oregonencyclopedia.org/articles/balloon_bombs/#.Y-6VRHbMJPa Knight, Judson. "Balloon Reconnaissance, History." Encyclopedia of Espionage, Intelligence and Security, edited by K. Lee Lerner and Brenda Wilmoth Lerner, vol. 1, Gale, 2004, pp. 91-94. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX3403300069/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=3191fc84. Accessed 15 Feb. 2023. Lienhard, John H. “No. 2192: Franklin and Balloons.” Engines Of Our Ingenuity. https://www.uh.edu/engines/epi2192.htm Maskel, Rebecca. “Why Was the Discovery of the Jet Stream Mostly Ignored?” Smithsonian. 4/2018. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/air-space-magazine/as-next-may-unbelievablebuttrue-180968355/ Mikesh, Robert C. “Japan's World War II Balloon Bomb Attacks on North America.” Smithsonian Annals of Flight. No. 9. 1973. https://repository.si.edu/bitstream/handle/10088/18679/SAoF-0009-Lo_res.pdf National Archives. “Barrage Balloons - the nation's defender.” https://www.findmypast.com/1939register/barrage-balloons “The First Air Raid Happened When Austria Dropped Bombs on Venice from Pilotless Hot-Air Balloons (1849).” 9/7/2021. https://www.openculture.com/2021/09/the-first-air-raid-in-history.html Paone, Thomas. “Protecting the Beaches with Balloons: D-Day and the 320th Barrage Balloon Battalion.” National Air and Space Museum. 6/4/2019. https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/protecting-beaches-balloons-d-day-and-320th-barrage-balloon-battalion Paone, Thomas. “The Most Fashionable Balloon of the Civil War.” Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. 11/5/2013. https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/most-fashionable-balloon-civil-war Rogers, J. David. “How Geologists Unraveled the Mystery of Japanese Vengeance Balloon Bombs in World War II.” https://web.mst.edu/~rogersda/forensic_geology/Japenese%20vengenance%20bombs%20new.htm Royal Air Forces Association. “Barrage Balloons in the Second World War.” 10/13/2020. https://rafa.org.uk/blog/2020/10/13/barrage-balloons-in-the-second-world-war/ Royal Meteorological Society. “Jetstreams.” 8/22/2013. https://www.rmets.org/metmatters/jetstreams Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum. “Presidential Writings Reveal Early Interest in Ballooning.” 2/15/2016. https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/presidential-writings-reveal-early-interest-ballooning Uenuma, Francine. “In 1945, a Japanese Balloon Bomb Killed Six Americans, Five of Them Children, in Oregon.” Smithsonian. 5/22/2019. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/1945-japanese-balloon-bomb-killed-six-americansfive-them-children-oregon-180972259/ Ziegler, Charles A. “Weapons Development in Context: The Case of the World War I Balloon Bomber.” Technology and Culture , Oct., 1994, Vol. 35, No. 4 (Oct., 1994). http://www.jstor.com/stable/3106505. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

6 Mar 202339min

SYMHC Classics: The Kallikaks and the Eugenicists

SYMHC Classics: The Kallikaks and the Eugenicists

In 2017, the show covered the fears, prejudices and societal issues that drove the eugenics movement in the U.S., which focused on identifying, sequestering and even sterilizing people who were deemed to be "unfit."See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

4 Mar 202336min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Ellen and Eliza

Behind the Scenes Minis: Ellen and Eliza

Tracy and Holly talk about the way that the eugenics movement pops up almost any time there's research into late 19th and early 20th century figures. They also discuss the nature of chicken and dumplings in their experience.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

3 Mar 202324min

The Case of Eliza Fenning

The Case of Eliza Fenning

Eliza Fenning worked as a cook in a London household until she found herself in the middle of a poisoning accusation. Her controversial trial brought the bias of the 19th-century British criminal justice system into focus.  Research: “Circumstantial Evidence.” The Abilene Gazette. June 23, 1876. https://www.newspapers.com/image/367010505/?terms=eliza%20fenning&match=1 Hempel, Sarah. “The Inheritor’s Powder.”  W. W. Norton & Company. 2013. Hempel, Sarah. “Eliza Fenning: the case of the poisoned dumplings.” The Telegraph. June 17, 2013. https://web.archive.org/web/20130620172222/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/history/10117903/Eliza-Fenning-the-case-of-the-poisoned-dumplings.html Clarke, Kate. “Trial of Eliza Fenning.” Mango Books. May 2021. “Circumstantial evidence : The extraordinary case of Eliza Fenning, who was executed in 1815, for attempting to poison the family of Orlibar Turner, by mixing arsenic in yeast dumplings. With a statement of facts, since developed tending to prove her innocence of the crime.” https://iiif.wellcomecollection.org/pdf/b21051732 Watkins, John. “The important results of an elaborate investigation into the mysterious case of Elizabeth Fenning: being a detail of extraordinary facts discovered since her execution, including the official report of her singular trial, now first published, and copious notes thereon.” London. William Hone. 1815. Accessed online: https://iiif.wellcomecollection.org/pdf/b2840807x MARSHALL, TIM. “Not Forgotten: Eliza Fenning, ‘Frankenstein’, and Victorian Chivalry.” Critical Survey, vol. 13, no. 2, 2001, pp. 98–114. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/41557107 “The Story of Eliza Fenning.” The Wells Journal. August 8, 1857. https://www.newspapers.com/image/812381127/?terms=eliza%20fenning&match=1  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

1 Mar 202339min

Ellen Swallow Richards

Ellen Swallow Richards

Ellen Swallow Richards was a big part of the establishment of home economics as a field.  But well before that, she broke a lot of ground and was often way ahead of her time. Research: Bettex, Morgan. “A life filled with firsts.” MIT News. 1/26/2011. https://news.mit.edu/2011/timeline-richards-0126 Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Swallow Richards". Encyclopedia Britannica, 29 Nov. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ellen-Swallow-Richards. Accessed 8 February 2023. Chapman, Sasha. “The Woman Who Gave Us the Science of Normal Life.” Nautilus. 3/28/2017. https://nautil.us/the-woman-who-gave-us-the-science-of-normal-life-236534/ Daniels, Elizabeth A. “The Disappointing First Thrust of Euthenics.” Vassar Encyclopedia. https://vcencyclopedia.vassar.edu/interviews-and-reflections/the-disappointing-first-thrust-of-euthenics/ Durant, Elizabeth. “Ellencyclopedia.” MIT Technology Review. 8/15/2007. https://www.technologyreview.com/2007/08/15/36578/ellencyclopedia/ Dyball, Robert and Liesel Carlsson. Human Ecology Review, Vol. 23, No. 2, Special Issue: Human Ecology—A Gathering of Perspectives: Portraits from the Past—Prospects for the Future (2017). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/26367977 Egan, Kristen R. “Conservation and Cleanliness: Racial and Environmental Purity in Ellen Richards and Charlotte Perkins Gilman.” Women's Studies Quarterly , FALL/WINTER 2011, Vol. 39, No. 3/4. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41308345 Hunt, Caroline Lousia. “The life of Ellen H. Richards, 1842-1911.” Boston: Whitcomb & Barrows. 1918. https://archive.org/details/lifeofellenhrich1918hunt Kwallek, Nancy. "Ellen Swallow Richards: visionary on home and sustainability." Phi Kappa Phi Forum, vol. 92, no. 2, summer 2012, pp. 8+. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A291498991/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=7050163b. Accessed 6 Feb. 2023. McNeill, Leila. “The First Female Student at MIT Started an All-Women Chemistry Lab and Fought for Food Safety.” Smithsonian. 12/18/2018. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/first-female-student-mit-started-women-chemistry-lab-food-safety-180971056/ Richardson, Barbara. “Ellen Swallow Richards: Advocate for ‘Oecology,’ Euthenics and Women’s Leadership in Using Science to Control the Environment.” Michigan Sociological Review , Fall 2000, Vol. 14 (Fall 2000). Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/40969050 Smith, Coleen. "The William Barton Rogers Building - The Door Opens." Clio: Your Guide to History. October 24, 2022. Accessed February 8, 2023. https://theclio.com/entry/147331 Smith, Nancy DuVergne. “Scene at MIT: Ellen Swallow Richards leads the Women's Laboratory.” MIT News. 3/21/2017. https://news.mit.edu/2017/scene-at-mit-ellen-swallow-richards-womens-laboratory-0321 Talbot, H.P. “Ellen Swallow Richards.” Technology Review, volume 13, pp. 365-373. https://wayback.archive-it.org/7963/20190702115713/https://libraries.mit.edu/archives/exhibits/esr/esr-biography.html Vassar Encyclopedia. “Ellen Swallow Richards ’1870.” https://vcencyclopedia.vassar.edu/distinguished-alumni/ellen-swallow-richards/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Feb 202343min

SYMHC Classics: Preliminary Emancipation Proclamation

SYMHC Classics: Preliminary Emancipation Proclamation

In 2016, Secretary of Education Dr. John B. King Jr. joined Tracy to discuss the Preliminary Emancipation Proclamation, which gave rebelling states 100 days to return to the Union or have their enslaved population freed during the U.S. Civil War.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

25 Feb 202328min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Susie and Rip

Behind the Scenes Minis: Susie and Rip

Tracy and Holly talk about the ways enslaved people found to push back against their enslavement. They then examine the animal welfare aspect of Old Rip’s story. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

24 Feb 202319min

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