Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Episoder(2628)

The Life and Disappearance of Rudolf Diesel

The Life and Disappearance of Rudolf Diesel

We have enough pieces of the story of Rudolf Diesel’s life that remain consistent that we can fairly confidently construct his biography. But the way his life ended will forever be a mystery.  Research: Harford, Tim. “How Rudolf Diesel's engine changed the world.” BBC. Dec. 19, 2016. https://www.bbc.com/news/business-38302874 “Rudolf Diesel and his invention.” Mercedes-Benz. Feb 21, 2011. https://group-media.mercedes-benz.com/marsMediaSite/en/instance/ko.xhtml?oid=9361302 Bryant, Lynwood. “The Development of the Diesel Engine.” Technology and Culture, vol. 17, no. 3, 1976, pp. 432–46. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/3103523 “Dr. Rudolf Diesel Dead, It Is Feared.” The San Francisco Examiner. Oct. 1, 1913. https://www.newspapers.com/image/460520428/?terms=%22rudolf%20diesel%22&match=1 Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Rudolf Diesel". Encyclopedia Britannica, 14 Mar. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Rudolf-Diesel “Dr. Diesel Vanishes From a Steamship.” New York Times. Oct. 1, 1913. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1913/10/01/100408236.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 “No Light on Diesel’s Fate.” New York Times. October 3, 1913. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1913/10/03/100650746.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 “Diesel Family in Straits.” New York Times. Oct. 13, 1913. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1913/10/13/104913506.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 “The Tragedy of Genius.” Holyrood Banner. Jan. 8, 1914. https://www.newspapers.com/image/485723537/?terms=%22rudolf%20diesel%22&match=1 “Diesel Was Bankrupt.” New York Times. Oct. 15, 1913. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1913/10/15/100651861.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 “No Ray of Light in Diesel Mystery.” New York Times. Oct. 2, 1913. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1913/10/02/100408778.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 “Reports Dr. Diesel Living in Canada.” New York Times. March 16, 1914. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1914/03/16/100084107.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 Lewis, Danny. “When the Inventor of the Diesel Engine Disappeared.” Smithsonian. Sept 29, 2016. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/when-inventor-diesel-engine-disappeared-180960635/#dzfOXtDDTgWXFGi4.99 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

8 Aug 202233min

SYMHC Classics: Tamerlane and the Battle of Ankara

SYMHC Classics: Tamerlane and the Battle of Ankara

This 2011 episode from previous hosts Sarah and Deblina covers Timur the Lame (Tamerlane to Westerners) conquering areas from Persia to Russia throughout the late 1300s, and his last great battle in Ankara against Sultan Bayezid I.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

6 Aug 202222min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Blood Pressure and Zippers

Behind the Scenes Minis: Blood Pressure and Zippers

Tracy and Holly talk about blood pressure and Diuril man. Holly then shares a story of how early fastener sales worked and how zippers have become specialized. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

5 Aug 202221min

Zippers!

Zippers!

The development of the zipper was oddly arduous, with many fastener versions tried out before the zipper we know today and have on our clothes, handbags, and luggage was finally figured out.  Research: Friedel, Robert. “Zipper: an Exploration in Novelty.” W.W. Norton. 1994. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "zipper". Encyclopedia Britannica, 21 Apr. 2020, https://www.britannica.com/art/zipper Johnson, Ian. “Zipper anniversary: 10 bits of trivia to impress the pants off you.” CBC News. April 29, 2013. https://www.cbc.ca/news/science/zipper-anniversary-10-bits-of-trivia-to-impress-the-pants-off-you-1.1305202 Lewis, Danny. “One Japanese Company Makes Half of the World’s Zippers.” Smithsonian. Sept 3, 2015. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/one-japanese-company-makes-half-worlds-zippers-180956482/ “Gideon Sundback.” National Inventors Hall of Fame. https://www.invent.org/inductees/gideon-sundback Bauman, Richard. “The Ups and Downs of Success.” Fremont Tribune. Nov. 20, 2006. https://www.newspapers.com/image/550483507/?terms=whitcomb%20judson&match=1 “Gideon Sundback celebrated in a Google doodle.” The Guardian. April 23, 2012. https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2012/apr/24/gideon-sundback-celebrated-google-doodle “Whitcomb Judson.” Lemelson MIT. https://lemelson.mit.edu/resources/whitcomb-judson “Zipper’s Evolution Slow, Shaky.” Spokane Chronicle. March 16, 1978. https://www.newspapers.com/image/578438126/ Altrowitz, Abe. “The Zipper was ‘Born’ and Raised Here.” The Minneapolis Star. June 12, 1973. https://www.newspapers.com/image/190250601/?terms=whitcomb%20judson&match=1 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

3 Aug 202237min

Hypertension: A History

Hypertension: A History

Ancient cultures all over the world used the pulse as a diagnostic tool. And eventually, we figured out how to measure blood pressure, and hypertension came to be viewed as a disease. Research: Booth, Jeremy. “A Short History of Blood Pressure Measurement.” Proceedings of the Royal Society of Medicine. Vol. 70. Nov. 1977. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/003591577707001112 Elias, Merrill F. and Amanda L. Goodell. “Setting the record straight for two heroes in hypertension: John J. Hay and Paul Dudley White.” Journal of Clinical Hypertension. 9/21/2019. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8030549/#jch13650-bib-0004 Greene, Jeremy A. “Releasing the Flood Waters: Diruil and the Reshaping of Hypertension.” Bulletin of the History of Medicine, Vol. 79, No. 4, Winter 2005. https://doi.org/10.1353/bhm.2005.0153 Harold, John Gordon. “Harold on History | Historical Perspectives on Hypertension.” American College of Cardiology. 11/20/2017. https://www.acc.org/latest-in-cardiology/articles/2017/11/14/14/42/harold-on-history-historical-perspectives-on-hypertension Hay, John. “The Significance of a Raised Blood Pressure.” British Medical Journal. 7/11/1931. Johnson, Richard J. et al. “The discovery of hypertension: evolving views on the role of the kidneys, and current hot topics.” Renal Physiology. 1/2/2015. https://doi.org/10.1152/ajprenal.00503.2014 Kotchen, Theodore A. “Historical Trends and Milestones in Hypertension Research: A Model of the Process of Translational Research.” Hypertension. Vol. 58, 2011.  https://doi.org/10.1161/HYPERTENSIONAHA.111.177766 Labos, Christopher. “The Current Hypertension Controversy: There is None..” McGill. 2/8/2018. https://www.mcgill.ca/oss/article/general-science/current-hypertension-controversy-there-none Lüscher, Thomas F. “High blood pressure: new frontiers of an old risk factor.” European Heart Journal (2017) 38, 2791–2794. doi:10.1093/eurheartj/ehx544 Moser, Marvin. “Historical Perspectives on the Management of Hypertension.” Journal of Clinical Hypertension. 5/22/2007. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1524-6175.2006.05836.x Postel-Vinay, Nicolas, editor. “A Century of Arterial Hypertension 1896-1996.” Wiley. 1996. Saklayen, Mohammad G. and Neeraj V. Deshpande. “Timeline of History of Hypertension Treatment.” Frontiers in Cardiovascular Medicine. 2/23/2016. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4763852/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

1 Aug 202241min

SYMHC Classics: Unearthed! USS Indianapolis

SYMHC Classics: Unearthed! USS Indianapolis

This 2017 episode covers the U.S.S. Indianapolis, known today for its crew's horrifying wait for rescue after being torpedoed following a secret mission at the end of World War II. But the ship's history goes back much farther than that.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

30 Jul 202232min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Gustave and Griswold

Behind the Scenes Minis: Gustave and Griswold

Holly and Tracy talk about Courbet's arrogance and some gossip about his life. They also discuss the legal loopholes that enable inanimate objects to be named as parties in court cases. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

29 Jul 202218min

Griswold v. Connecticut

Griswold v. Connecticut

Griswold v. Connecticut was the U.S. supreme court decision that overturned laws banning contraception – at least, for married couples. It wasn’t the first SCOTUS decision to mention the concept of privacy, but it was a major one. Research: Bailey, Martha J. “’Momma’s Got the Pill’: How Anthony Comstock and Griswold v. Connecticut Shaped US Childbearing.” American Economic Review 2010, 100. http://www.aeaweb.org/articles.php?doi=10.1257/aer.100.1.98 Brannen, Daniel E., Jr., et al. "Griswold v. Connecticut (1965)." Supreme Court Drama: Cases That Changed America, edited by Lawrence W. Baker, 2nd ed., vol. 1: Individual Liberties, UXL, 2011, pp. 70-74. Gale In Context: Opposing Viewpoints, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX1929200026/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=d079c402. Accessed 5 July 2022. Burnette, Brandon R. “Comstock Act of 1873 (1873).” The First Amendment Encyclopedia. 2009. https://mtsu.edu/first-amendment/article/1038/comstock-act-of-1873 Cornell Law School Legal Information Institute. “Griswold v. Connecticut (1965).” https://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/griswold_v_connecticut_(1965) Court, U.S. Supreme. "Griswold v. Connecticut (1965)." Civil Rights in America, Primary Source Media, 1999. American Journey. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/EJ2163000097/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=4639ad46. Accessed 5 July 2022. Finlay, Nancy. “Taking on the State: Griswold v. Connecticut.” Connecticut History. https://connecticuthistory.org/taking-on-the-state-griswold-v-connecticut/ Garrow, David J. “The Legal Legacy of Griswold v. Connecticut.” American Bar Association. 4/1/2011. https://www.americanbar.org/groups/crsj/publications/human_rights_magazine_home/human_rights_vol38_2011/human_rights_spring2011/the_legal_legacy_of_griswold_v_connecticut/ Lepore, Jill. “To Have and to Hold: Reproduction, Marriage and the Constitution.” The New Yorker. 5/18/2015. https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/05/25/to-have-and-to-hold Lord, Alexandra M. “The Revolutionary 1965 Supreme Court Decision That Declared Sex a Private Affair.” Smithsonian. 5/19/2022. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smithsonian-institution/the-revolutionary-1965-supreme-court-decision-that-declared-sex-was-a-private-affair-180980089/ McBride, Alex “Griswold v. Connecticut.” The Supreme Court. Thirteen: Media With Impact. https://www.thirteen.org/wnet/supremecourt/rights/landmark_griswold.html Minto, David. “Perversion by Penumbras: Wolfenden, Griswold, and the Transatlantic Trajectory of Sexual Privacy.” American Historical Review. October 2018. Morgan, Jason. “One ‘Right,’ Many Wrongs.” The Human Life Review. Winter 2014. Moskowitz, Daniel B. "A matter of privacy: Griswold V. Connecticut, 381 U.S. 479 (1965): the underlying right to privacy." American History, vol. 52, no. 3, Aug. 2017, pp. 22+. Gale In Context: U.S. History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A495033804/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=293a39ac. Accessed 5 July 2022. UK Parliament. “Wolfenden Report.” https://www.parliament.uk/about/living-heritage/transformingsociety/private-lives/relationships/collections1/sexual-offences-act-1967/wolfenden-report-/ Vile, John. “Griswold v. Connecticut (1965).” The First Amendment Encyclopedia. 2009. https://www.mtsu.edu/first-amendment/article/579/griswold-v-connecticut Yale Medicine Magazine. “An arrest in New Haven, contraception and the right to privacy.” https://medicine.yale.edu/news/yale-medicine-magazine/article/an-arrest-in-new-haven-contraception-and-the/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Jul 202239min

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