EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

EP 62: Q&A 1 — How We Get Strong, Dealing with Injuries, and Patterns Among High Performers

In this Q&A, I tackle some of my patron’s most burning questions about how we getting stronger, takeaways from my experiments with nutrition and intermittent fasting, dealing with injuries, favorite training playlists and climbing books, life on the road, patterns I’ve noticed among high performers, dream guests, recommendations for first-time trainers, and much more.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Learn more about Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/bonus-content

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-1

Nuggets:

00:00 – Q&A introduction, Patreon tiers, and format

06:53 – Nico’s Question: Tactics for mini-projects/quick ticks?

12:47 – Tony’s Question: Least favorite climbing shoe?

14:15 – Tony’s Question: If you could do an episode with one deceased person, who would it be?

14:49 – Tony’s Question: Favorite climbing-related book?

15:50 – Tony’s Question: Worst climbing bodily function story?

17:00 – Emma’s Question: How does training work, and what is happening in our body when we get stronger?

27:16 – Emma’s Question: Recommendations for training with a knee injury?

30:34 – Emma’s Question: Should I train my good leg while my other leg is injured?

31:44 – Katie’s Question: What inspires you the most aside from climbing?

33:34 – Adrian’s Question: Why did you stop intermittent fasting?

35:39 – Ted’s Question: Will carbs help me get stronger faster coming from a keto diet? And what changes have you made to your diet that have made a difference?

41:16 – Jasna’s Question: How do you mentally deal with injuries? How do you redirect your psych when dealing with a climbing injury?

50:35 – Darren’s Question: When are you going to tell us about anorexic Steven? And was it worth it?

51:32 – Jimmy’s Question: 3-week or 5-week training cycles: have you tried both? Which do you prefer?

54:58 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite training playlist?

56:07 – Adriel’s Question: Advice on working through mental blocks, like fear of falling?

1:00:23 – Adriel’s Question: How much can you train a month sustainably?

1:03:24 – Adriel’s Question: Tips for hard finger cracks? (5.11 and up)

1:06:07 – Heather’s Question: Advice for someone who is interesting in training for the first time?

1:12:57 – Heather’s Question: What have you learned about yourself living in the van? And is this lifestyle sustainable for you?

1:17:01 – Heather’s Questions: What are some of your biggest climbing takeaways? Where would you be without climbing, and what has made you the climber you are today?

1:22:01 – Casey’s Question: Do you train on the road? If so, how?

1:23:19 – Casey’s Question: How are you structuring your Hueco trip?

1:26:47 – Casey’s Question: Why does everyone say your van smells good even if they are vegan? Is it because everyone needs beef? (just kidding… kind of)

1:27:32 – Casey’s Question: Bouldering diet vs. sport climbing diet?

1:28:35 – Casey’s Question: Favorite other podcasts?

1:31:00 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on flexibility?

1:32:21 – Casey’s Question: Thoughts on warming up?

1:34:20 – Casey’s Question: If you could press a button and go anywhere, where would you go each day of the week?

1:37:11 – Steve’s Question: What patterns have you seen emerge among the high performers you’ve interviewed?

1:40:04 – Steve’s Question: Living on the road full time, do you ever get sick of it and just want to settle somewhere for a year?

1:41:13 – Jeffrey’s Question: Top 3 dream guests to interview?

1:43:45 – Jeffrey’s Question: What’s the most common weakness you see among top climbers?

1:45:40 – Ilkka’s Question: What about the ethical side of eating meat?

1:49:08 – Wrap up

Episoder(382)

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing

Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experi...

3 Jan 20222h 7min

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warm...

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EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes

EP 99: Q&A 4 — Goals for 2022, Dating on the Road, and What I’ve Learned from Nearly 100 Episodes

In Q&A 4, I tackle patron questions about Hueco round 2 and other goals for 2022, my plans for V12 and 5.14, how my trip to Leavenworth went and plans to return, my favorite features in the van, datin...

13 Des 20212h 33min

Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tyson Schoene — Building Champions, and Keeping Things Simple (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyson Schoene. We talked about the recent USA Climbing 2021 National Championships, some of the differen...

11 Des 202131min

EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos

EP 98: Kyra Condie — The Olympic Experience, Training With a Fused Spine, and Thriving in Organized Chaos

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadwa...

6 Des 20211h 50min

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flas...

29 Nov 20211h 35min

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legac...

22 Nov 20212h 53min

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ir...

15 Nov 20212h 11min

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