EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

EP 83: Neely Quinn — Lessons from the TrainingBeta Podcast, Nutrition Advice for Climbers, and Kids vs. Houses

Neely Quinn is the founder of TrainingBeta, and the long-time host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. We talked about Neely’s health journey and discovering paleo, not wanting a boss, why she decided to create TrainingBeta, lessons learned from hosting 160+ interviews, injuries and surgery, project piano pieces, kids vs. houses, and her new puppy named Willa.

Support the Podcast:

thenuggetclimbing.com/support

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn

Nuggets:

2:30 – The other side of the mic

4:11 – Singing and piano, and hating performing

7:21 – Connections between podcasting, climbing, and music

10:00 – Not wanting a boss, creating TrainingBeta, and Neely’s background in the paleo world

11:40 – Neely’s initial plan for TrainingBeta, and the podcast as an afterthought

12:35 – Scratching her own itch, getting fired, and brainstorming

16:48 – Downloads and reads, the weight loss topic, and my eating disorder story

20:58 – How to talk about fat loss, and how to do that in a healthy manner

24:09 – Writing a book about the paleo diet, Neely’s health journey, and the impact of food on health

29:15 – Neely’s diet before paleo

30:19 – Why Neely rarely recommends the paleo diet, and the individuality of nutrition coaching

32:42 – Neely’s most common nutrition recommendations (carb sources, protein, and artificials)

37:06 – Neely’s diet

39:06 – Chocolate

40:14 – Common symptoms that are often connected to food

44:14 – How to think about doing an elimination diet (if you are having symptoms)

47:44 – Patron question from PogoStickJoe: Efficacy from Collagen?

50:34 – Probiotics

53:48 – Neely’s nutrition coaching and program

55:22 – Neely’s surprise at the success of the TrainingBeta podcast and blog

56:56 – The early days, growing TrainingBeta, and different measures of success

1:01:31 – Balancing a business with climbing

1:02:27 – Commitment, and the entrepreneurial spirit

1:04:46 – Top lessons that Neely has learned from hosting 160+ episodes of the TrainingBeta podcast

1:07:54 – Mindset, self-improvement, and the early days of training content

1:10:31 – Some of the training exercises that helped Neely get to be her strongest ever, and wrist curls

1:14:02 – Injuries, handstands, and wrist surgery

1:16:26 – The ebbs and flows of motivation, and learning to be kinder to ourselves

1:18:23 – Imposter syndrome, and being a conduit for information

1:20:06 – ‘Tomb Raider’, and being enough

1:20:53 – Depression, comparison, and putting things in perspective

1:23:59 – Piano, music, and balancing passions

1:27:24 – Reality TV, and the Bachelorette

1:28:36 – Children vs. house

1:29:26 – Kids

1:32:36 – Willa and projecting

1:34:18 – Patron question from Howard: Favorite local gym and favorite front range crag?

1:35:32 – Rifle and the Red River Gorge

1:36:29 – Getting recognized at the crag

1:37:45 – New stuff with TrainingBeta, and adult climbing teams

1:39:56 – Gratitude

1:40:51 – Upcoming climbing trips, and closing thoughts

Episoder(385)

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Mar 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

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EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Feb 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Des 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

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