EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions
The Nugget Climbing Podcast3 Okt 2022

EP 138: Q&A 6 (feat. Taylor Fragomeni) — Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited, and More Patron Questions

My close friend Taylor Fragomeni joins me for Q&A 6! We talked about ways to improve your climbing if your access to the gym or crag is limited, and we tackled Patron questions about bouldering at night, best bang-for-your-buck strength exercises, beta videos, daily hangboarding, how to warm up for max hangs on a lifting day, and route and boulder pyramids.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, and Craig Lee

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-6

Nuggets:

0:00:00 – Introducing Taylor!

0:03:00 – Ways to Improve Your Climbing if Access is Limited:

0:03:00 – Metal Game

0:06:09 – Watching Videos

0:09:55 – Visualization

0:13:29 – Decision Maps (and having a backup plan)

0:23:43 – Adding Stability Elements to Strength Exercises

0:28:37 – Getting Creative

0:29:41 – One-Time Coaching Calls

0:30:24 – How to connect with Tay!

0:30:59 – Patron Questions:

0:30:59 – Hakan’s Question: Any nuggets for nighttime bouldering sessions?

0:36:42 – Cody’s Question: Training recommendations for a 5.10 mountain guide, and biggest bang-for-your-buck strength training exercise for climbing?

0:43:19 – Justin’s Question: How often do you look at other people's beta videos when you're trying a boulder or sport climb? Do you ever avoid them on purpose?

0:49:57 – Toby’s comment and the benefit of taking notes on podcasts/books/etc

0:57:06 – Sytse’s Question: Do you still do Emil Abrahamsson’s twice-a-day hangboard protocol?

1:00:26 – Murpheys_law24: How do you warm up for max hangs on a lifting day?

1:04:25 – Briana’s Question: Do “old sends” count for your current pyramid? And thoughts on the 1-2-4-8-16 pyramid vs. 1-3-9-27?

Episoder(385)

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EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

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EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

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23 Feb 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

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EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

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