William Finnegan

Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay "Playing Doc's Games" in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and "Doc" Renneker's pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 2015 memoir, Barbarian Days, which documented his surfing life, won the Pulitzer Prize. Beyond the surf, Finnegan has devoted much of his career to conflict reporting in regions ranging from Mexico to parts of Asia. In this episode, Finnegan talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the modern marriage of surfing and intellectualism, the importance of asking questions, writing, curiosity, outing himself as a surfer in the context of his career, Bali's dystopian reality, the dissemination of surf culture, and how his experience as a teacher in South Africa during apartheid shaped him as a writer.

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Avsnitt(100)

Keone Downing

Keone Downing

Born in 1953, raised in Hawaii, Keone Downing started surfing at age five at Waikiki. He's won many surf contests, but his crowning achievement, undoubtedly, is winning the 1990 Eddie, on a board shap...

15 Sep 53min

Dylan Graves

Dylan Graves

Born in Florida and raised in Puerto Rico, Dylan Graves is widely known as the creator and host of Weird Waves, a web series in which he chases all manner of freak waves, among them the Severn Bore in...

1 Sep 59min

Craig Stecyk

Craig Stecyk

Born in 1950, raised on the west side of LA, Craig R. Stecyk III is a multidisciplinary artist whose work spans film, fine art, commercial design, writing, and photography.  He's widely known for the ...

18 Aug 55min

Dion Agius

Dion Agius

Dion Agius burst on to surfing's global stage with a spectacular Gorkin Flip in the 2009 surf flick Secret Machine. He fell in with filmmakers Joe G, Taylor Steele, and Kai Neville, appearing in a sle...

4 Aug 56min

Jack Johnson

Jack Johnson

Jack Johnson is a multi-platinum-selling singer-songwriter, surfer, and environmentalist. Before turning to playing music professionally, Johnson had designs on a career as a pro surfer. Having grown ...

21 Juli 58min

Jared Mell

Jared Mell

Jared Mell is a surfer and shaper who grew up in Orange County, California, surfing Blackies and riding alt equipment—primarily longboards, but also eggs, fishes, alaias, etc. Mell's competed in many ...

7 Juli 46min

Paige Alms

Paige Alms

Paige Alms was born in British Columbia, moved to Maui when she was nine, found surfing, found surf contests, and, around the age of 15, found big waves. They would become her forte, specifically Jaws...

23 Juni 53min

Sid Abbruzzi

Sid Abbruzzi

Born and raised in Newport, Rhode Island, Sid Abruzzi came to surfing and skateboarding in the early 1960s. In 1969, 18-year-old Abbruzzi drove down to New Jersey to buy a few Rick single-fins, as sur...

9 Juni 52min

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