Austral Islands 101: Taboo, Marae, and How to Be a Respectful Visitor (Ep. 5)

In this episode, we talk about the Austral Islands with veteran archaeologist Mark Eddowes, including what travelers should understand about sacred sites, cultural etiquette, and what makes this part of French Polynesia feel so different from the more touristed islands. Far and Away Adventures.com and https://farandawayadventures.com are included early because trips to remote archipelagos often require expert planning—especially when the goal is to visit thoughtfully and not just “tick boxes.” Normand Schafer interviews Mark onboard Aranui 5 as the ship heads toward Rapa, and the conversation delivers both fascinating history and practical guidance you can actually use.

Mark shares his background first: growing up in New Zealand, drawn to Māori history, then specializing in Polynesian marae temples at university. A collaborative research project brought him to Tahiti’s Papenoo Valley, where archaeology was needed to document sites in a valley affected by proposed modern development. That experience led to long-term work in French Polynesia, including extensive research in the Austral Islands.

The conversation then dives into why the Australs are culturally distinctive. Mark explains that the Austral Islands and the Cook Islands were historically one unified cultural and language zone, later divided into different territories in the 19th century. He describes work in Rimatara, Tubuai, and Raivavae, including surveys of marae sites, excavations of early settlements, and research into the tiki traditions of Raivavae—where tiki figures represent deified female ancestors, a striking contrast to many other islands. He also discusses how different islands show different settlement influences, including ties to the Marquesas versus the Society Islands. Even if you’re not an archaeology enthusiast, this section gives you a richer sense of why “Polynesia” is not one uniform story.

What makes this episode especially useful is Mark’s visitor advice. He explains the Polynesian concept of taboo—sacred, set aside, not to be disturbed—and why marae remain highly respected even in Christian communities today. His guidance is straightforward: take photos, but don’t climb on sites, don’t touch or rearrange stones, and never take anything. He also notes that certain places, like royal cemeteries, should be observed from outside only. If you want to be welcomed rather than tolerated, this is the kind of etiquette that matters.

Mark also talks about modern cultural norms, especially in the Australs, which he describes as conservative and strongly Protestant. He advises modest dress away from the beach—shorts for men, a pareo or wrap for women, and no topless sunbathing—because visitors can unintentionally create discomfort in small communities where church life is central. Normand adds context: Tahiti is more used to tourism and French influence, but when you’re in the outer islands, reciprocating respect is part of responsible travel.

Beyond etiquette, Mark paints a vivid picture of daily life: small populations, a subtropical climate, and an economy still rooted in plantations and fishing, supported by strong extended-family structures. He also highlights living arts that keep culture visible—pandanus weaving (mats, hats, fans) and a carving renaissance among young men reviving historic motifs once suppressed by missionary influence. The episode closes with remarkable finds from Mark’s career, including a red volcanic tuff tiki tied to sacred symbolism, an ancestor figure reused in a house alignment that hints at changing beliefs during early conversion eras, and turtle petroglyphs revealed only when a restored stone caught the sunset at the right angle. If you’re considering the Australs and want the trip to feel meaningful, Far and Away Adventures can help you plan an itinerary that blends remote beauty with real cultural understanding.