EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a social media following in China, the future potential of speed climbing, recovery routines and tools, chess, favorite books, airport stoicism, and more.

Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing) 👉 http://masterclass.thenuggetclimbing.com

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sam-watson

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:38) – Winter Olympics

(00:05:48) – Breaking the World Record in Paris

(00:14:20) – Winning Bronze in Paris

(00:25:50) – LA Olympics

(00:30:11) – How Sam makes a living

(00:34:49) – Building a following in China

(00:38:40) – Different speed formats

(00:42:38) – Pro Climbing League

(00:51:15) – Sam’s intro to speed climbing

(01:12:35) – Sam’s future career arc

(01:20:48) – Recovery routines & tools

(01:24:15) – Journaling & Chris Sharma

(01:29:31) – The culture of speed climbing

(01:32:08) – The potential of speed

(01:38:43) – Speed Classic

(01:40:42) – Sam’s potential & the 0.1 rule

(01:46:03) – Sub 6 for the women

(01:47:33) – Hobbies & books

(01:51:23) – Sam’s upcoming goals

(01:52:08) – Airport stoicism

(01:53:34) – Where to find Sam

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EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

EP 57: Dave MacLeod (Part 2) — Highlights From ‘9 Out of 10’, Flexible Programming, and Listener Questions

This is part 2 of my conversation with Dave MacLeod. We talked about key points from Dave’s book 9 Out of 10 Climbers, how he uses flexible programming to train around the weather in Scotland, his cur...

1 Mars 20211h 50min

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

Dave MacLeod is a professional climber from Scotland and might be the best all-around climber in the world. Dave also has two master’s degrees and has authored two books. We talked about improving fro...

22 Feb 20211h 41min

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

BONUS: Blake Cason — Upcoming Retreats

In this bonus episode, I chat with Blake Cason about ClimbWell, and upcoming retreats for Spring 2021. Blake explains what ClimbWell is all about, who the retreats are for, what to expect from this 4-...

18 Feb 202124min

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Blake Cason — Dancing with ‘Joe SixPack’ (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Blake Cason. We talked about sending her multi-season project ‘Joe SixPack’ at the VRG, transitioning in...

18 Feb 202110min

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

EP 55: Kai Lightner — Disordered Eating, Flexibility for Tall Climbers, and Climbing for Change

Kai Lightner is a professional climber and the founder of Climbing for Change. We talked about how Kai discovered climbing, his reflections on an eating disorder, the importance of flexibility for tal...

15 Feb 20211h 39min

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his ...

8 Feb 20211h 22min

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow i...

4 Feb 202114min

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week trai...

1 Feb 20211h 24min

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