Neil Gresham: How Busy Climbers Break Through Plateaus (Without Training More)

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Elite climber and coach Neil Gresham explores:

• The thing coaches don't talk about
• Turning life stress into climbing fuel
• How he trained Tim Emmett to send 14d / 9a
• The most impactful training modalities
• Why it’s good that most of us don’t train like pros
• His low inflammation nutritional breakthrough
• Technique pitfalls and fixes
• Why having kids can level up our climbing
• Chris Sharma‘s winning mindset

Work with Neil: https://www.neilgresham.com/ Neil's nutrition guide: https://www.neilgresham.com/nutrition-guide Neil's technique masterclass: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r&si=Se3MPb8R8gFihL9z

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BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO:

• PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.

• Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com

And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals

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Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!

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Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right)

00:00 Psych High Time Low 00:28 Meet Coach Neil 04:39 Podcast Format Plan 06:19 Struggle Origins 10:47 Life Stress And Grief 15:34 Ebb Flow Training 23:14 Climber Or Coach 24:22 Masterclass Legacy 27:08 Sponsors And Patreon 29:29 Training Strength Battle 34:03 Building Strength Plans 38:52 Tim Vs Dusty Coaching 43:41 Training Load Templates 45:07 Stop Copying Elites 47:07 Quality Over Quantity 47:51 Recovery Days Matter 49:20 Collagen Sponsor Break 50:40 Nutrition Recovery Reboot 52:13 Low Inflammation Shift 55:03 Cut Booze Sugar Wheat 57:29 Carbs For Sleep Recovery 01:00:25 Nutrition Burnout Warning 01:05:14 Periodized Eating Cycle 01:09:49 Technique Versus Strength 01:13:02 Mindful Warmup Drills 01:18:48 Repeats Mirror Angle Hacks 01:23:36 Outdoor Project Tactics 01:25:03 Timing Peak And Conditions 01:27:04 Maintenance Training Diagnostics 01:28:08 Quality Over Volume Peak 01:28:57 Simulate Project Conditions 01:29:49 Avoid Project Burnout 01:33:32 Kids And Mindset Shift 01:34:09 Learn From Chill Crushers 01:35:39 Obsession Reset Lessons 01:37:11 Want It But Let Go 01:39:05 Tim's Meltdown Breakthrough 01:42:45 Modeling Calm At Crag 01:44:36 Belief Unlocks Grades 01:46:47 Conditions Can Lie 01:50:05 Coaching Confidence Hack 01:57:19 Stop Overthinking Redpoints 01:59:10 Work With Neil Gresham 02:01:31 Wrap Up And Bonus Plug

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Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!