EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnold

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks

(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview

(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion

(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again

(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?

(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock

(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I

(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’

(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed

(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar

(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico

(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing

(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps

(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers

(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent

(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?

(00:38:33) – Dad strength

(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams

(00:49:34) – Near misses

(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain

(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story

(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals

(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft

(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou

(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news

(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)

(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold

(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold

(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters

(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews

(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories

(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap

(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit

(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence

(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW

(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”

(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Avsnitt(388)

EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More

EP 104: Amity Warme — Crushing in Yosemite, Growing up in Gymnastics, and Eating More to Do More

Amity Warme is one of the most badass trad climbers you’ve never heard of. She also has a master's in nutrition. We talked about her incredible season in Yosemite including ground-up free ascents of ‘...

31 Jan 20222h 10min

Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Tyler Nelson — How to Train Based on Your Finger Anatomy (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Tyler Nelson. We talked about a recent study Tyler did with 23 different climbers to measure their finge...

29 Jan 202226min

EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom

EP 103: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk — Chasing Flow State, The Role of Cleverness in Climbing, and Becoming a Mom

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk is a professional climber from the UK. She is also a writer, speaker, and co-host of the Curious Climber Podcast along with Hazel Findlay. We talked about her early life, imperman...

24 Jan 20222h 27min

EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift

EP 102: Matty Hong — The History of ‘Flex Luthor’, Climbing Waterfalls in Japan, and the Camera as a Gift

Matty Hong is a professional rock climber, photographer, and filmmaker. We talked about what it was like to grow up in a climbing family, about making the first repeat of ‘Flex Luthor’ 5.15b as well a...

17 Jan 20222h 1min

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

EP 101: Nina Caprez — Being a Swiss Machine, Leaning into Womanness, and a Beautiful Story of Failing on ‘The Nose’

Nina Caprez is a professional rock climber from Switzerland, who is known for her many impressive ascents of hard multi-pitch climbs. We talked about her current trip to Greece and her newest passion ...

10 Jan 20221h 38min

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Maisch — My Training Plan for Hueco Round 2 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Maisch. We talked about my training plan for Hueco in 2022, how to structure my weeks and days,...

7 Jan 20225min

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing

EP 100: Ben Moon — How Ben Moon Uses the MoonBoard, and the Evolution of Sport Climbing

Ben Moon is a famous rock climber from the UK. He was the first person to climb 5.14c (8c+) with his route ‘Hubble’. He is also the inventor of the MoonBoard. We talked about his early climbing experi...

3 Jan 20222h 7min

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Paige Claassen — Dreamcatching, and Learning to Celebrate (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Paige Claassen. We talked about her send of ‘Kryptonite’ shortly after our first interview, how she warm...

16 Dec 202131min

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