EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

EP 167: Alex Honnold — Epic Solos That Nobody Heard About, Near Misses, and Sh*tting His Pants While Free Soloing

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough. Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!

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  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt Mickolas

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnold

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:21) – Interviews and TED Talks

(00:07:25) – Finding new terrain for this interview

(00:08:05) – Epic solo linkup in Zion

(00:11:16) – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress’… again

(00:12:08) – Why do these big solo linkups?

(00:12:56) – Epic solo linkup in Red Rock

(00:14:54) – Foot pain on big walls and vitamin I

(00:17:41) – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune’s Buttress’ and ‘Resolution Arete’

(00:20:34) – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed

(00:21:29) – Solos that fly under the radar

(00:22:47) – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso’ in Mexico

(00:25:17) – The limits of free soloing

(00:28:31) – Quantum leaps

(00:30:16) – Yosemite soloing, and Alex vs. top sport climbers

(00:32:22) – Chris Sharma's FA of ‘Necessary Evil’ 5.14c (8c+), and the role of talent

(00:35:40) – Will Alex climb 5.15a (9a+)?

(00:38:33) – Dad strength

(00:39:46) – Vegas gyms and homewall dreams

(00:49:34) – Near misses

(00:55:34) – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps’ in Riglos Spain

(00:57:46) – Competing with Ethan Pringle, soloing ‘Shune’s Butress’ in the snow, and the tree story

(01:03:16) – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger’, Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals

(01:04:22) – The physiological limits of ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:08:06) – Breaking ‘The Nose’ speed record

(01:10:47) – Biggest lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft

(01:14:26) – Inspiration, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou

(01:18:15) – Following the climbing news

(01:19:01) – Who Alex is most impressed by, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)

(01:20:35) – New season of Climbing Gold

(01:22:13) – Favorite interviews on Climbing Gold

(01:23:28) – Corporate speaking and interviewing Stone Masters

(01:26:24) – Climbing Gold uncut interviews

(01:28:37) – Pooping while free soloing stories

(01:34:56) – Shit-puting, and pooping while soloing El Cap

(01:36:29) – Filming Free Solo and the Warrior Spirit

(01:38:54) – The commitment to excellence

(01:41:05) – Plans for the PNW

(01:43:57) – “More intention never hurt.”

(01:44:47) – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Avsnitt(384)

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Mars 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Feb 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Feb 20252h 30min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

10 Feb 20252h 1min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

5 Feb 202538min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of t...

3 Feb 20251h 45min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoeche...

27 Jan 20253h 8min

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

EP 256: Stian Christophersen Returns — Training Smarter, Pulley Rehab, & Japanese Precision: Secrets to Climbing Stronger & Healthier

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard ...

20 Jan 20252h 23min

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