I'm Not Anti-Training

In this episode, I reflect on my recent conversation with Mike Boyd and use it as a starting point to clarify something important about my coaching philosophy.

I think some climbers may have interpreted my message as being against physical training - but that isn’t the point at all. Physical training is absolutely crucial if you want to peak. At some point, you have to raise the ceiling, get stronger, and build the physical qualities required for the climbs you want to do.

But for many climbers, physical capacity isn’t the only thing holding them back - and often, it isn’t the biggest thing either.

A lot of climbers are already leaving huge amounts of performance on the table through poor tactics, rushed projecting, fear, pressure, lack of clarity, poor recovery, lifestyle stress, emotional attachment to outcomes, and an inability to properly express the ability they already have.

So this episode is not anti-training.

It’s anti-blind training.

It’s about understanding the full picture before deciding what the next intervention should be. Sometimes the answer is physical training. Sometimes it’s tactics. Sometimes it’s technique. Sometimes it’s mindset. Sometimes it’s rest, recovery, or a better relationship with the process.

As always, diagnosis comes first. Then the right intervention at the right time.

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