Artist Interview - Robert Ossant and Jessica Pile

Robert Ossant

Author and fashion historian Robert Ossant hails from Lancashire and moved to London to work in newspapers, getting his big break at the Daily Mirror. Feeling disillusioned with tabloid life, he joined London embroidery house Hand & Lock as their communications manager in 2013. It was at the 258-year-old atelier that he became close friends with co-author Jessica Jane Pile and developed his love and passion for embroidery.

Regularly inspired by the designers, artisans, makers and artists he met, Robert enrolled at night school and completed a Master’s in the History of Art. Now, equipped with cultural studies insights and academic frameworks, he applies the tools of art analysis and interpretation to all areas of the fashion industry. From haute couture catwalk show analysis to researching Queen Victoria’s wardrobe, his interests and expertise span both contemporary and historical style.

Now based in France, his freelance work has appeared in Vogue, Marie Claire, Selvedge, The Independent, Forbes and Newsweek, and he has worked with international fashion brands including McQueen, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Balenciaga. He has also spoken at the World Embroidery Conference, the Chelsea Flower Show and the National Gallery on embroidery as a vital expression of art.

Whether researching, writing or talking about embroidery, he brings personality, humour and intellectual rigour - making an often-overlooked artistic expression feel vivid, relevant and alive.

Jessica Jane Pile

Born in Kent, Jessica Jane Pile is an author, designer, educator and technical embroidery specialist based in London. After graduating from the Royal Central School of Speech and Drama with a degree in Costume construction for Performance, she joined historic embroidery house Hand & Lock. Within a few years, she was appointed Managing Director, becoming the youngest person to hold that role.

During her twelve-year tenure, she relaunched the embroidery school, expanded the annual embroidery competition into a globally recognised art and fashion event, and managed complex commissions for major fashion houses including Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Dior and Vivienne Westwood. She also worked on large-scale, high-profile embroidery projects for the 2012 London Olympics, The Diamond Jubilee and Kings Coronation.

In 2018 while working at Hand & Lock, she authored Fashion Embroidery: Embroidery Techniques and Inspiration for Haute‑Couture Clothing, drawing on her deep knowledge of high-level embroidery. The book’s success led to a demand for a follow-up, and Jess approached Robert to bring ‘The Art of Couture Embroidery’ to life

In 2023, she left Hand & Lock to found Norica Studios, an embroidery studio focusing on bespoke embroidery for interior design and fashion. The business she runs with her sister Eleanor, and they are currently developing a new product range launching in 2026.

Whether leading projects, teaching or writing, she combines technical skill with a calm, confident tone that has made her a trusted voice in contemporary embroidery.

Photographer credit is: Michael Barrow

https://www.instagram.com/michaelbarrowphoto/

Robert and Jess's new book, The Art of Couture Embroidery, is available from 6th November in the UK https://amzn.to/3J9UtXc

School of Stitchex Textiles's course details are at https://www.sofst.org/