EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:03) – The donut festival

(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall

(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards

(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts

(00:14:21) – Outline of topics

(00:16:17) – Finger training topics

(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering

(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination

(00:49:23) – Summary of our session

(00:50:21) – When to end a session

(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools

(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume

(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall

(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools

(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)

(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind

(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco

(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?

(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging

(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume

(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco

(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish

(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?

(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?

(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries

(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing

(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity

(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?

(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?

(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?

(02:07:46) – Takeaways

(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits

(02:14:41) – The future of finger training

(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training

(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?

(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways

(02:37:05) – Wrap up

Avsnitt(385)

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

EP 295: Sam Watson — The Fastest Climber in the World on His Routines, Mental Process, & the Olympics

Sam Watson is the current world record holder in speed climbing (4.64 seconds) and an Olympic Bronze medalist. We talked about breaking the world record in Paris, how he makes a living, building a soc...

23 Mars 1h 55min

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

EP 294: Melissa Strong — Dying and Coming Back to Life, Having Her Arms Sewn Together, and Returning to Climbing with 7 ¾ Fingers

Melissa Strong is a boulderer and restaurateur based in Estes Park, CO, who nearly lost her life in an electrocution accident in April 2017. We talked about her accident, what she experienced on the o...

9 Mars 1h 30min

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

EP 293: Joel Unema — Unlocking V14 Finger Strength, the Key to Long Roof Boulders, and a Better Way to Train Power Endurance

Joel Unema is a high-performance rock climber and coach for Climb Strong, and has climbed V14 and 5.14b. We talked about how Tyler Nelson helped him unlock V14 finger strength, how Steve Bechtel helpe...

23 Feb 2h 4min

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

EP 292: Tom Randall — How to Program Your Training Like a Pro (Repost from Patreon)

Today, I am resharing one of the most valuable episodes I have ever recorded. This episode with Tom Randall was originally aired on Patreon in Feb, 2022. We talked about how to use your friends to dis...

9 Feb 1h 48min

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

EP 291: Charlie Boscoe — Pro Climbing League: Comps Are About to Change Forever

Charlie Boscoe is a former IFSC commentator, writer, and co-founder of the Pro Climbing League, a bold new head-to-head bouldering series debuting on February 28. We talked about his first experience ...

26 Jan 1h 18min

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

EP 290: Chris Schulte — Developing Your Own Style, Age-Proof Motivation, and Redefining Progress Beyond Grades

Chris Schulte is an elite boulderer known for bold first ascents, compression mastery, and a thoughtful approach that prioritizes style over grades. We talked about his evolution as a climber, develop...

12 Jan 2h 25min

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

EP 289: Christian Beckwith — The 10th Mountain Division, WW2 Guerrilla Warfare Stories, and the Birth of Modern Climbing Gear

Christian Beckwith is the former editor of The American Alpine Journal and Alpinist Magazine, and the creator of the award-winning podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. We talked about the formation of the ...

15 Dec 20251h 49min

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

EP 288: Carol Simpson Returns — Life After 80 Years Old, Longevity Routines, and Training for a World Record

Carol Simpson returns to the podcast to talk about life after 80 years old, and everything she does to stay healthy and climb hard. We talked about making the move to Salt Lake, discovering Dr. Peter ...

1 Dec 20251h 48min

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