EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn’t Train Like Gymnasts

Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn’t train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:04:03) – The donut festival

(00:06:26) – Tyler’s granite spray wall

(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards

(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts

(00:14:21) – Outline of topics

(00:16:17) – Finger training topics

(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering

(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination

(00:49:23) – Summary of our session

(00:50:21) – When to end a session

(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools

(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume

(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall

(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools

(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)

(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind

(01:11:25) – Tyler’s guidance for me in Hueco

(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?

(01:20:24) – Lions don’t go jogging

(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos’ and Adam Ondra’s training volume

(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco

(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish

(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?

(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?

(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries

(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing

(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity

(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?

(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?

(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?

(02:07:46) – Takeaways

(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients’ training habits

(02:14:41) – The future of finger training

(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training

(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?

(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways

(02:37:05) – Wrap up

Avsnitt(388)

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

EP 14: Jonathan Siegrist — Current Training Methods, Second-Go Tactics, and The Fins Project

Jonathan Siegrist is a professional rock climber, and one of the most prolific sport climbers in the world. We talked about the evolution of his training, how he trained to climb 5.15b, current traini...

20 Apr 20201h 57min

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Apr 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

6 Apr 20201h 39min

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Mars 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Mars 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Mars 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Feb 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Feb 20201h 38min

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