EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns

EP 206: Building a Perfect Replica of ‘The Big Island’ V15, Training on Your Projects, and the Ideal Circuit — Charlie Schreiber Returns

Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast! Charlie joins me from Fontainebleau to talk about the epiphany he had in Rocklands, leaving his job to focus on Paradigm Climbing, teaming up with Alex Johnson, getting obsessed with ‘The Big Island’ 8C/V15, building a perfect replica of the boulder, how to train on your limit projects, the concept of the “ideal circuit”, and much more!

Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

betterhelp.com/NUGGET

Use this link for 10% off your first month!

Check out PhysiVantage!

physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

Check out Chalk Cartel!

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Check out Crimpd!

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiber-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:49) – Eating mangos in Fontainbleau

(00:05:00) – Epiphanies from his Rocklands trip

(00:09:15) – Capacity and the group psych

(00:12:06) – Strategy and resting hard

(00:15:22) – Sleep

(00:16:58) – Partnering with Alex Johnson

(00:20:45) – What is Paradigm Climbing?

(00:23:11) – Solving coaching puzzles

(00:25:22) – 9-week cycles

(00:27:34) – Deloads

(00:29:19) – The brain adapts faster than the body

(00:31:12) – Looking back and ahead

(00:36:46) – Stacking training programs

(00:42:15) – “It’s not your last day”

(00:45:31) – Having Martin Keller as a mentor

(00:46:37) – The similarity between training and performing

(00:48:13) – Supplemental training on trips

(00:50:44) – Conditions in Font, and ‘Karma’ 8A+/V12

(00:53:06) – ‘Getting psyched on The Big Island’ 8C/V15

(00:57:59) – Blanancing trips with his marriage

(01:00:15) – Building ‘The Big Island’ replica

(01:11:34) – How much does the replica cost?

(01:14:14) – Training on the replica

(01:22:21) – How to train on your project

(01:27:45) – How much progress did he make on the replica?

(01:29:16) – Progress and time remaining on his trip

(01:32:32) – How he is projecting the actual boulder, mobility, and sore ankles

(01:35:45) – Will Charlie train this way on future projects?

(01:38:40) – Will replicas unlock V18?

(01:40:15) – Nalle’s FA of ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A/V17

(01:42:20) – The Ideal Circuit

(01:46:43) – Setting specific comp boulders for Adam Shahar

(01:51:32) – How you win comps vs. not lose comps

(01:54:42) – How to create your own Ideal Circuit

(01:56:30) – Creating your own boulders

(01:59:08) – Imposing demands

(02:01:48) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

Avsnitt(387)

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Drew Ruana — Recent V16s (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Drew Ruana. We talked about his process of sending 'Box Therapy' and 'Creature From the Black Lagoon', a...

29 Okt 20208min

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

EP 41: Tonde Katiyo (Part 2) — RIC as a Tool, the Value of Route Setting, and Keeping Training in Perspective

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tonde Katiyo. We talked about RIC (Risk, Intensity, Complexity) as a tool for communicating about difficulty, about the appropriate responses to different types ...

26 Okt 20201h 13min

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

EP 40: Tonde Katiyo (Part 1) — Discrimination vs. Privilege, and Making a Better World by Making Better Climbing

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and co...

19 Okt 20201h 35min

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle — The Stories We Tell Ourselves (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ethan Pringle. We talked about surfing, about the stories we tell ourselves about what we can and can’t ...

16 Okt 202018min

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

EP 39: Matt Fultz — ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, Strength Before Weight, and Using Your Build as a Gift

Matt Fultz is a professional climber who is at the top of the bouldering game right now. We talked about sending ‘Hypnotized Minds’ V16, a typical day of projecting, deadlifting for finger strength, p...

12 Okt 20201h 2min

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

EP 38: Solomon Barth — Up-Down-Ups, Veganism, and Working to Live (and Make a Difference)

Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulle...

5 Okt 20201h 26min

EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips

EP 37: Simon Carter — Action vs. Landscape, The Taipan Closure, and Top 10 Climbing Photography Tips

Simon Carter is an Australian photographer, and has been described by the editor of Rock and Ice Magazine as “arguably the greatest climbing photographer of all time”. We talked about building his fir...

28 Sep 20201h 22min

BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets

BONUS: Charlie Manganiello — Goals vs. Actions, Synchronized Swimming, and Magic Bullets

Charlie Manganiello has been coaching with Climb Strong for seven years and now heads the Elemental Strength program in Lander, WY. We talked about focusing all of your energy on one thing, misconcept...

25 Sep 20201h 21min

Populärt inom Utbildning

rss-bara-en-till-om-missbruk-medberoende-2
historiepodden-se
det-skaver
harrisons-dramatiska-historia
nu-blir-det-historia
allt-du-velat-veta
johannes-hansen-podcast
not-fanny-anymore
rss-viktmedicinpodden
roda-vita-rosen
rss-foraldramotet-bring-lagercrantz
sektledare
i-vantan-pa-katastrofen
sa-in-i-sjalen
rss-max-tant-med-max-villman
rss-sjalsligt-avkladd
alska-oss
rss-basta-livet
rss-om-vi-ska-vara-arliga
rikatillsammans-om-privatekonomi-rikedom-i-livet