EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

EXPERT | Rob Gray on How We Learn to Move and the Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

Rob Gray is an Associate Professor at Arizona State University, host of The Perception & Action Podcast, and a Skill Acquisition Specialist for the Boston Red Sox. He’s also the author of two great books, How We Learn to Move and Learning to Optimize Movement. In this Part 2 of 2, Kris and Rob discuss the differences between the two predominant theories of skill acquisition and adaptability – Information Processing and Ecological Dynamics – and how climbing coaches can use the Ecological framework and the Constraints-Led Approach to help climbers better learn to move.

____________________

EXPLORE FURTHER

Our entire movement skills resource library

Coaching for Mastery course mentioned in the episode

Follow Rob on Instagram

Check out The Perception & Action Podcast

Check out Rob's books:

How We Learn to Move: A Revolution in the Way We Coach & Practice Sports Skills

Learning to Optimize Movement: Harnessing the Power of the Athlete-Environment Relationship

____________________

SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

____________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

____________________

CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:00) Guest Introduction

(2:52) Topic Description and Movement Theories

(7:25) Why Rob Switched Sides

(9:44) Key Differences in Coaching Methods

(11:38) ANNOTATION: Poking Holes in Information Processing

(18:38) ANNOTATION: Dribbling Around Cones, System Boards

(20:38) The Constraints-Led Approach

(23:18) T.W.I.T. Coaching

(25:55) ANNOTATION: Kids Climbing Things Example

(28:50) ANNOTATION: Constraints Example in Climbing

(30:23) Perception and Action Coupling

(33:02) ANNOTATION: Systems Boards are Poor Skill Builders

(35:03) How Does Previewing Beta Fit?

(37:25) ANNOTATION: Technique vs. Adaptable Skill

(40:45) Wrap Up

Det här avsnittet är hämtat från ett öppet RSS-flöde och publiceras inte av Podme. Det kan innehålla reklam.

Avsnitt(402)

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but that's not reality. Instead, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrat...

2 Juni 57min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

Drills aren't the only way to improve your climbing movement skill and technique. In fact, there's a much simpler way. This is Part 4 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for clim...

12 Maj 17min

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but like it or not, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrate and underra...

5 Maj 1h 2min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 3 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Do More session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

21 Apr 16min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 2 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Go Hard session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

24 Mars 15min

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Like it or not, grades are a part of climbing, and I've recently been exploring how to have a good relationship with them. In that exploration, I've decided on a range that I believe any given grade r...

10 Mars 1h 31min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

➡️ WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE ➡️ FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT ➡️ ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE ➡️ TAKE THE GUESSWORK OUT OF TRAINING Most "simple" training plans are actually fairly complicated when compared ...

24 Feb 10min

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

When climbers work a project, the process often goes straight from beta discovery to dialing in microbeta. This isn't wrong, but might be missing some important pieces.  Watch it on YouTube ➡️ASSESS A...

9 Feb 11min

Populärt inom Utbildning

historiepodden-se
rss-bara-en-till-om-missbruk-medberoende-2
det-skaver
nu-blir-det-historia
harrisons-dramatiska-historia
not-fanny-anymore
rss-viktmedicinpodden
johannes-hansen-podcast
allt-du-velat-veta
rikatillsammans-om-privatekonomi-rikedom-i-livet
sa-in-i-sjalen
sektledare
roda-vita-rosen
rss-traningsklubben
rss-max-tant-med-max-villman
sex-pa-riktigt-med-marika-smith
i-vantan-pa-katastrofen
rss-basta-livet
rss-autismandan
psykologsnack