Lost Threads, Lubaina Himid (2021, 2023) (EMPIRE LINES x Holburne Museum, British Textile Biennale)
EMPIRE LINES7 Mars 2024

Lost Threads, Lubaina Himid (2021, 2023) (EMPIRE LINES x Holburne Museum, British Textile Biennale)

Artist and curator Lubaina Himid unravels entangled histories of transatlantic slavery and textile production, across continents, and Britain’s museum collections, via Lost Threads (2021, 2023).

Lubaina Himid considers herself ‘fundamentally a painter’, but textiles have long been part of her life and practice. Had she stayed in Zanzibar, the country of her birth in East Africa, she may have become a kanga designer, following a pattern set by her mother’s interest in fashion, and childhood spent around department stores in London. First commissioned by the British Textile Biennial in 2021, and installed in Gawthorpe Hall’s Great Barn, her 400m-long work Lost Threads’ flows in a manner reflective of the movement of the oceans, seas, and waterways which historically carried raw cotton, spun yarn, and woven textiles between continents, as well as enslaved people from Africa to pick raw cotton in the southern states of America, and workers who migrated from South Asia to operate looms in East Lancashire. Now on display in Bath, the rich Dutch wax fabrics resonate with the portraits on display in the Holburne Museum’s collection of 17th and 18th century paintings - symbols of how much of the wealth and prosperity of south-west England has been derived from plantations in the West Indies.

Lubaina talks about how the meaning of her work changes as it travels to different contexts, with works interpreted with respect to Indian Ocean histories in the port city of Sharjah, to accessible, participatory works in Cardiff, and across Wales. We consider her ‘creative interventions’ in object museums and historic collections, ‘obliterating the beauty’ of domestic items like ceramics, and her work with risk-taking curators in ‘regional’ and ‘non-conventional’ exhibition spaces. We discuss her formative work within the Blk Art group in the 1980s, collaboration with other women, and being the first Black artist to win the Turner Prize in 2017. And drawing on her interests in theatre, Lubaina hints at other collections and seemingly ‘resolved’ histories that she’d like to unsettle next.

Lubaina Himid: Lost Threads runs at the Holburne Museum in Bath until 21 April 2024.


For more about Dutch wax fabric and ‘African’ textiles, hear the British Museum's Dr. Chris Spring on Thabo, Thabiso and Blackx, Araminta de Clermont (2010).


For more about Claudette Johnson, hear curator Dorothy Price on And I Have My Own Business in This Skin (1982) at the Courtauld Gallery in London.


Hear artist Ingrid Pollard on Carbon Slowly Turning (2022) at the Turner Contemporary in Margate.


Hear curator Griselda Pollock from Medium and Memory (2023) at HackelBury Fine Art in London.

And for more about the wealth of colonial, Caribbean sugar plantations which founded the Holburne Museum, hear Dr. Lou Roper on ⁠Philip Lea and John Seller’s A New Map of the Island of Barbados (1686)⁠, an object in its collection.


Recommended reading:

On Lubaina Himid: gowithyamo.com/blog/the-revolutionary-act-of-walking-in-the-city

On Maud Sulter: gowithyamo.com/blog/reclaiming-visual-culture-black-venus-at-somerset-house

On Sonia Boyce: gowithyamo.com/blog/feeling-her-way-sonia-boyces-noisy-exhibition

On Life Between Islands at Tate Britain: artmag.co.uk/the-caribbean-condensed-life-between-islands-at-the-tate-britain


WITH: Lubaina Himid, British artist and curator, and professor of contemporary art at the University of Central Lancashire. Himid was one of the first artists involved in the UK's Black Art movement in the 1980s, and appointed MBE and later CBE for services to Black Women's/Art. She won the Turner Prize in 2017, and continues to produce work globally.

ART: ‘Lost Threads, Lubaina Himid (2021, 2023)’.

SOUNDS: Super Slow Way, British Textile Biennial (2021).

PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic.

Follow EMPIRE LINES on Instagram: instagram.com/empirelinespodcast

And Twitter: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936

Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

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A New Map of the Island of Barbados, Philip Lea and John Seller (1686)

A New Map of the Island of Barbados, Philip Lea and John Seller (1686)

Dr. Lou Roper explores the uncharted history of enslaved Africans in England's 17th century colonies, via Philip Lea and John Seller's A New Map of the Island of Barbados. In 1686, Lea and Sellers meticulously mapped the tooth-shaped Caribbean island of Barbados, England's central and wealthiest colony. Great detail was given to ‘every parish, plantation, watermill, windmill, and cattlemill…with the name of the present possessor’. Yet they wholly excluded the island’s most important element - the population of enslaved people of African descent. Peeling back the layers of the New Map uncovers how England's early empire was a private enterprise, with contemporary echoes down to Conservative MP Richard Drax. It also reveals how England's colonies were interdependent and detached from metropolitan involvement by design - and why seemingly distinct, competitive empires often overlapped and fuelled each other. PRESENTER: Dr. Lou Roper, SUNY Distinguished Professor of History at the State University of New York. He is the co-General Editor of The Journal of Early American History. ART: A New Map of the Island of Barbados, Philip Lea and John Seller (1686). IMAGE: ‘A new map of the Island of Barbadoes'. SOUNDS: Tuk Band. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

29 Juli 202114min

Mexican Enconchado of the Virgin of Guadalupe (c. 1700s)

Mexican Enconchado of the Virgin of Guadalupe (c. 1700s)

Dr. Sonia Ocaña Ruiz illuminates New Spain at the continental crossroads of colonialism, Catholicism, and Japanese culture from the 16th century, through a Mexican Enconchado of the Virgin of Guadalupe. Mexico City was beating heart of the Spanish Empire in the 16th century, connecting the continents of Asia and the Americas. Exclusively produced in 'New Spain', mother-of-pearl paintings, or enconchados, embody the artistic and religious standards imposed by imperial Europe. But their shimmering façades also reveal how cross-continental flows of goods and peoples informed a uniquely New Spanish cultural identity - perhaps none more so than Japanese lacquers. Few enconchados still survive today. This vision of the Virgin of Guadalupe is a rare final testament to how Mexican and Asian artists received and resisted European cultural hegemony, and how colonial territories were often more cosmopolitan than their imperial cores. PRESENTER: Dr. Sonia Ocaña Ruiz, professor of history at Universidad Juárez Autónoma de Tabasco. She is a member of Japón y España: Relaciones a Través del Arte. ART: Mexican Enconchado of the Virgin of Guadalupe (c. 1700s). IMAGE: ‘The Virgin of Guadalupe'. SOUNDS: Manuel de Sumaya. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

15 Juli 202116min

Four Ports Panorama, Carlos Julião (c. 1780s)

Four Ports Panorama, Carlos Julião (c. 1780s)

Patrícia Martins Marcos maps out Portugal’s designs for imperial civilisation in the 18th century, through Carlos Julião’s Four Ports Panorama. From urban slaves to street peddlers, the Four Ports Panorama charts the diverse peoples of the Portuguese Empire on a universal path to civilisation, via clothing and Catholicism. Administrators and military men like Carlos Julião used the visual language of mapping to enforce assimilation within an exclusive Portuguese identity. But such maps reflect their makers’ selective sight, revealing how Portugal really occupied a precarious, peripheral position by the 1780s. The Four Ports Panorama exposes the faulty design at empire’s core - that abstract ambitions could only ever be concretised in violence and resistance. PRESENTER: Patrícia Martins Marcos, doctoral candidate in History and Science Studies at the University of California, San Diego, Visiting Scholar at the Universidade Nova de Lisboa, and Associate Editor at the History of Anthropology Review. She specialises in the history of race, medicine, and visual culture in Portuguese colonialism. ART: Four Ports Panorama, Carlos Julião (c. 1780s). IMAGE: ‘Four Ports Panorama’. SOUNDS: Stealing Orchestra and Rafael Dionísio. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

1 Juli 202116min

European Photographs in the Illustrated Weekly of India, Debalina Majumdar and Manobina Roy (1959-1960)

European Photographs in the Illustrated Weekly of India, Debalina Majumdar and Manobina Roy (1959-1960)

Dr. Mallika Leuzinger pictures post-colonial Indian perspectives, through Debalina Majumdar and Manobina Roy’s European photographs published in the Illustrated Weekly of India in 1959 and 1960. In 1959, the Indian twin sisters Debalina Majumdar and Manobina Roy embarked on a six month tour across London, Paris, and Geneva. Keen amateur photographers, and members of the transnational United Provinces Photographic Association, they arrived with their cameras slung over their saris, pointed to capture new places, people, and perceptions for audiences back home. Reversing the dynamics of colonial subjectivity, their street photographs reframed what it meant to photograph and be photographed for pre and post-independence India. But they also exposed the enduring connections of these metropoles and former colonies, revealing how class and colonialism determined domestic expectations of Europe, and left them surprised and disappointed by the realities they viewed through their lenses. PRESENTER: Dr Mallika Leuzinger, Fung Global Fellow at Princeton University, and Visiting Researcher in Gender and Media Studies for the South Asian Region at Humboldt University, Berlin. ART: European Photographs in the Illustrated Weekly of India, Debalina Majumdar and Manobina Roy (1959-1960). IMAGE: ‘A Negro Orator in Hyde Park’, Manobina Roy (c. 1960). SOUNDS: Les Cartes Postales Sonores. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

17 Juni 202117min

Vatcha Adaran Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Bombay (1881)

Vatcha Adaran Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Bombay (1881)

Dr. Talinn Grigor sets light to the interimperial identities in 19th century Parsi architecture, through the Vatcha Adaran Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Bombay. Building Bombay was at the forefront of the religious, philanthropic, and political agenda of the Parsis, India’s Persian Zoroastrian ethnoreligious minority. Thousands of buildings like the Vatcha Adaran were commissioned in the ‘Persian Revival’, as the Parsis portrayed themselves as heirs of the ancient Persian Achaemenid and Sassanian Empires. But wealthy patrons also drew from European Gothic Revivalism to solidify their privileged position in the contemporary British Raj. Both foundational and forward-facing, the Vatcha Adaran’s architectural ambivalence reflects the Parsis’ efforts to interpret these particular - often conflicting - interimperial identities. PRESENTER: Dr. Talinn Grigor, Professor and Chair of the Art History Program at the University of California, Davis. She specialises in 19-20th century art and architectural histories of Iran and Parsi India, through the framework of post-colonial and critical theories. She is the author of The Persian Revival: The Imperialism of the Copy in Iranian and Parsi Architecture, published in July 2021. ART: Vatcha Adaran Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Bombay (1881). IMAGE: ‘Bai Pirojbai Dadabhoy Maneckji Vatcha Agiary 1881’. SOUNDS: Pedram Khavarzamini. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

3 Juni 202116min

Yugoslavia Pavilion for the Paris Expo, Josip Seissel (1937)

Yugoslavia Pavilion for the Paris Expo, Josip Seissel (1937)

Dr. Aleksandra Stamenkovic constructs the struggle to unify post-imperial South Slavic identities, through Josip Seissel’s Yugoslavia Pavilion for the Paris Expo in 1937. The collapse of the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian Empires in the First World War birthed a new European state – the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. National pavilions at international exhibitions, or Expos, became vital platforms to project the state’s internal unity and external strength on the global stage. Yugoslavia’s prize-winning pavilion for the Paris Expo in 1937 fused contemporary European and classical aesthetics, projecting a progressively modern culture steeped in diverse, Slavic histories. But it was also an identity-construction site, exposing elites’ struggle to create a new, unified, post-imperial identity. PRESENTER: Dr. Aleksandra Stamenkovic, Belgrade-based art historian and independent researcher. She specialises in contemporary Serbian and European architectural history. ART: Yugoslavia Pavilion for the Paris Expo, Josip Seissel (1937). IMAGE: ‘International Exposition dedicated to Art and Technology in Modern Life, Yugoslavia Pavilion’. SOUNDS: Paniks. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

20 Maj 202116min

Illustration of the Empress Visiting a Field Hospital (in Hiroshima), Kobayashi Kiyochika (1895)

Illustration of the Empress Visiting a Field Hospital (in Hiroshima), Kobayashi Kiyochika (1895)

Dr. Alison Miller depicts the domestic and feminine faces of 19th century Japanese imperialism, in Kobayashi Kiyochika’s Illustration of the Empress Visiting a Field Hospital (in Hiroshima). The public-facing imperial family was a modern invention to Meiji Japan (1868-1912). Paparazzid in popular woodblock prints, Empress Shōken appeared in battlefields and blossom groves, symbolising Japan’s shifting political landscape. But beyond propaganda, Illustration of the Empress hints at the interplay between printers, publishers, and popular markets, revealing how the public invested and participated in the national, imperial project. Challenging our masculine and overseas stereotypes, this print unveils how different Japanese women constructed the scaffolding of empire on the home front and with soft power. PRESENTER: Dr. Alison J. Miller, Assistant Professor of Art History at the University of the South in Sewanee, Tennessee. She specialises in modern and contemporary Japanese art history, with a focus on representations of gender, women, and the imperial family. ART: Illustration of the Empress Visiting a Field Hospital (in Hiroshima), Kobayashi Kiyochika (1895). IMAGE: ‘Illustration of the Empress Visiting a Field Hospital [in Hiroshima] (Yasen byōin gyōkō no zu)’. SOUNDS: Difondo. PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

6 Maj 202113min

Listening to Empire: Making Podcasts with Producer Jelena Sofronijevic (EMPIRE LINES x Retrospect Live Event)

Listening to Empire: Making Podcasts with Producer Jelena Sofronijevic (EMPIRE LINES x Retrospect Live Event)

Retrospect Journal is joined by Audio Producer Jelena Sofronijevic to unpack their ongoing series, EMPIRE LINES. EMPIRE LINES uncovers the unexpected, often two-way flows of Empires through art. From the radical anti-capitalist cartoons of 1920s Southern Africa, to Eastern-inspired azulejos in seventeenth-century Portugal, interdisciplinary thinkers use individual artworks as artefacts of imperial exchange, revealing the how and why of the monolith ‘Empire’. But what are the ideas underlying EMPIRE LINES? And how do you go about podcasting the past? In this live event, Jelena offers a behind-the-scenes look at the series, along with some of the podcast’s most prolific presenters. Listening to Empire: Making Podcasts with Producer Jelena Sofronijevic was held and recorded on Thursday 8 April 2021. You can read the full interview on Retrospect Journal. PRESENTER: Jamie Gemmell, Editor-In-Chief of Retrospect Journal, the University of Edinburgh’s student-led History, Classics, and Archaeology journal. You can find Retrospect on Twitter (@retrospecthca), Facebook and Instagram (@retrospectjournal). PRODUCER: Jelena Sofronijevic. Follow EMPIRE LINES at: twitter.com/jelsofron/status/1306563558063271936 Support EMPIRE LINES on Patreon: patreon.com/empirelines

22 Apr 202147min

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