EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

EXPERT | Taylor Reed on Climbing Research and Evidence-Informed Movement Coaching

Taylor Reed is a climber and coach who has worked with high-level athletes – both competitive and outdoor climbers – for many years. He’s the vice president of the International Rock Climbing Research Association and also runs The Beta Angel Project, which takes climbing-specific research and synthesizes it with ideas and experience in order to find evidence-informed methods that can help us all become better coaches and climbers.

In this episode, we discuss how Taylor assesses movement, how he teaches it, and what role research plays in his overall coaching.

Find Taylor online at:

The Beta Angel Project

International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

Research mentioned in the episode:

Austrian Research Paper and Write Up

Co-Contraction Paper and Write Up

Multi-Edge Decision-Making / Behavioral Change Paper

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Why “Technique” May Not Be The Answer to Better Climbing

EXPERT | Rob Gray | The Gap Between Researchers and Coaches (Part 1)

EXPERT | Rob Gray | How We Learn to Move and Skill Acquisition for Climbers (Part 2)

BOARD MEETINGS | The Art of Learning Climbing

BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?

BREAKING BETA | Better Call Paul | IRCRA Test Battery

Taylor Reed and Bella Jariel | The Coach/Climber Dynamic

_________________________

🔌SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚CHAPTERS

(0:00) Intro

(2:40) How Much Does Research Inform Taylor’s Coaching?

(3:48) ANNOTATION: Evidence-Based vs. Evidence-Informed

(10:15) What Aspects of Research Are Most Applicable?

(12:53) Looking Outside of Climbing Research

(13:50) ANNOTATION: Reinvestment Theory

(15:37) Speed Climbing

(19:53) Information Processing vs. Ecological Dynamics for Climbing

(30:32) Thematic Movement Learning

(47:40) Movement Assessment

(1:02:48) Teaching Movement

(1:05:22) ANNOTATION: Differential Learning

(1:08:19) ANNOTATION: Attractor Valleys

(1:16:03) How Much Does the Athlete Need to Know?

(1:20:58) ANNOTATION: Leading By Example

(1:22:48) Do Comp Style Climbs Translate to Outdoors?

(1:27:38) What Is Still Missing From the Research?

(1:32:55) Wrap Up

(1:35:06) Theme

Det här avsnittet är hämtat från ett öppet RSS-flöde och publiceras inte av Podme. Det kan innehålla reklam.

Avsnitt(402)

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most OVERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but that's not reality. Instead, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrat...

2 Juni 57min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Session To Improve Climbing Movement Skill

Drills aren't the only way to improve your climbing movement skill and technique. In fact, there's a much simpler way. This is Part 4 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for clim...

12 Maj 17min

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

BOARD MEETINGS | The Most UNDERRATED Climbing Training Methods

In an ideal world, we'd value climbing training methods based on how well they actually work, but like it or not, climbing training goes in trends. What that means is that we both overrate and underra...

5 Maj 1h 2min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a "Do More" Climbing Endurance Training Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 3 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Do More session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

21 Apr 16min

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

TAPED TIPS | How to Structure a Go Hard Bouldering Session

Effective doesn't need to be complicated. This is Part 2 of 4 videos detailing the simplest effective way to train for climbing. In this video, we cover the Go Hard session. WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE➡️ http...

24 Mars 15min

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Juliet Hammer | A Better Relationship With Climbing Grades (Especially if You're Short)

Like it or not, grades are a part of climbing, and I've recently been exploring how to have a good relationship with them. In that exploration, I've decided on a range that I believe any given grade r...

10 Mars 1h 31min

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

TAPED TIPS | The Simplest (Effective) Climbing Training

➡️ WATCH IT ON YOUTUBE ➡️ FREE TRY HARDER TOOLKIT ➡️ ASSESS AND IMPROVE YOUR TECHNIQUE ➡️ TAKE THE GUESSWORK OUT OF TRAINING Most "simple" training plans are actually fairly complicated when compared ...

24 Feb 10min

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

TAPED TIPS | What Climbers Get Wrong About Microbeta (And What We Can Do Better)

When climbers work a project, the process often goes straight from beta discovery to dialing in microbeta. This isn't wrong, but might be missing some important pieces.  Watch it on YouTube ➡️ASSESS A...

9 Feb 11min

Populärt inom Utbildning

historiepodden-se
rss-bara-en-till-om-missbruk-medberoende-2
det-skaver
nu-blir-det-historia
harrisons-dramatiska-historia
not-fanny-anymore
rss-viktmedicinpodden
johannes-hansen-podcast
allt-du-velat-veta
rikatillsammans-om-privatekonomi-rikedom-i-livet
sa-in-i-sjalen
sektledare
roda-vita-rosen
rss-traningsklubben
rss-max-tant-med-max-villman
sex-pa-riktigt-med-marika-smith
i-vantan-pa-katastrofen
rss-basta-livet
rss-autismandan
psykologsnack