EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!

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Watch the Video Interview:

EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenzi

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon

(00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi

(00:05:37) – Early climbing

(00:08:02) – Discovering his potential

(00:10:12) – Focusing on the details

(00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist

(00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’

(00:21:27) – The projecting bubble

(00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal

(00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength

(00:29:17) – External pressure

(00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C

(00:36:09) – Optimism

(00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’

(00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’

(00:49:47) – Projecting tactics

(00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s

(00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name

(00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics

(01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’

(01:03:23) – The goal of struggling

(01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad

(01:10:01) – Stress from his dad

(01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals

(01:17:31) – Future competition plans

(01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other

(01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects

(01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project

(01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions

(01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b

(01:42:18) – Support from his dad

(01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Avsnitt(385)

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

EP 27: Audrey Sniezek — Corporate Work, Starting A Gym, and Telling Yourself You Belong

Audrey Sniezek is a software engineer for Microsoft and a former professional climber. We talked about her beginnings in both computer science and climbing, becoming a morning person, her 4 a.m. warmu...

20 Juli 20201h 50min

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

EP 26: Ben Herrington — Go-To Training Sessions, Skateboarding, and Obsessive Compulsion

Ben Herrington is a professional route setter and likely Washington’s most prolific boulderer. We talked about why Ben performs best as a “weekend warrior”, his three go-to training sessions, mistakes...

13 Juli 20201h 41min

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

EP 25: Nathan Hadley — Circuit Sessions, Onsight Practice, and Establishing the First 5.14 at Index

Nathan Hadley is a professional route setter and an all-around rock climber. We talked about completing the Canadian Alpine Trilogy, the benefits of training using bouldering circuits, how to practice...

6 Juli 20201h 24min

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

EP 24: Paige Claassen — Pre-Send Rituals, Breathing Techniques, and Learning from Each Attempt

Paige Claassen is a professional rock climber and the founder of the Southern Africa Education Fund. We talked about pre-send rituals, breathing techniques, how she changed her diet to improve recover...

29 Juni 20201h 4min

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

EP 23: Jasna Hodžić — Pure Motivation, Practicing Your Anti-Style, and Enduring Setbacks

Jasna Hodžić is part writer, part scientific researcher, and part badass rock climber. We talked about sending her first 5.14a, ‘To Bolt Or Not To Be’ at Smith Rock, about practicing her anti-style to...

22 Juni 20202h 20min

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

EP 22: Justin Brown — Skincare Tips, Growing a Business, and Greatness vs. Insanity

Justin Brown is the founder of Rhino Skin Solutions, a company that provides high-performance skincare products for rock climbers. We talked about best practices for skincare, tips for dialing skin fo...

15 Juni 20201h 55min

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

EP 21: Ethan Pringle — Lessons From Projecting, The Gift of Heartbreak, and a New Depth of Love

Ethan Pringle is one of the best all-around rock climbers in the world. We talked about practice vs. training, lessons learned from 50 days projecting ‘The Nest’, taking care of his dad and his experi...

8 Juni 20202h 1min

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

EP 20: Chad Andrews — Financial Independence, Building a Craft, and Pursuing Your Best Life

Chad Andrews is the maker of the Clipping Chains blog—a resource to help climbers navigate personal finance and move towards financial independence. We talked about reaching retirement at age 35, simp...

1 Juni 20201h 52min

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