EP 224: Jana Švecová — Pushing the Limits of Female Bouldering, Finding Silver Linings When Injured, and Chasing a Lifetime Goal

Jana Švecová is a professional rock climber from the Czech Republic who has emerged as one of the top female boulderers in the world. We talked about her upbringing and her early success in competitions, her pivot to outdoor bouldering, her inspiration for choosing ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16 as a project, making the first ascent of ‘Nova’ 8C/V15, using her finger injury as an opportunity, current training, and much more!

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 224: Jana Švecová — Uncut Video

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jana-svecova

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:02:44) – Jana’s upbringing

(00:07:18) – Quitting her job to climb full time

(00:08:38) – What inspires her about ‘Terranova’ 8C+/V16

(00:12:39) – Climbing has it all

(00:18:08) – A natural talent

(00:22:20) – Discovering outdoor bouldering

(00:25:57) – Childhood best friends

(00:30:04) – Sharing successes

(00:33:04) – ‘Nova’ 8C/V15

(00:47:56) – The frustrations of projecting

(00:50:46) – The next steps for ‘Terranova’

(00:54:02) – Using her finger injury as an opportunity

(00:58:22) – Working with her coach

(01:03:23) – Improving her shoulder strength

(01:08:09) – How her training has changed

(01:11:58) – Building a climbing wall in a second apartment

(01:15:18) – Building my own home wall

(01:17:55) – Training for ‘Terranova’

(01:30:02) – Motivation and side projects

(01:35:18) – Self-belief

(01:37:46) – Coordination and muscle memory

(01:40:37) – Harry Potter museum

(01:43:21) – Hand tattoos

(01:44:39) – Favorite post-climbing food

(01:46:15) – Ultimate achievement

(01:48:51) – Best decision

(01:53:17) – Bug snacks

(01:56:00) – Happiest moment

(01:58:58) – Silver linings

(02:03:11) – Proudest of

(02:06:47) – Favorite rock type

(02:07:22) – Go-to climbing shoes

(02:11:27) – Wrap up