EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.

Watch the Video Interview of this episode:

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut Video

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

The NUG:

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Check out my new portable hangboard design.

Crimpd:

crimpd.com

Or download the Crimpd app for free!

Rhino Skin Solutions:

rhinoskinsolutions.com

Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

Chalk Cartel:

chalkcartel.com

Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.

We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returns

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal

(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking

(00:11:28) – Limiting factors

(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit

(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting

(00:19:19) – Specializing

(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength

(00:21:18) – More on specialization

(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises

(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics

(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals

(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training

(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program

(00:45:56) – Yves’ edge lifting protocols

(00:53:35) – When to progress weight

(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test

(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule

(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)

(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains

(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong

(01:05:29) – Repeaters

(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program

(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far

(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training

(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder

(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency

(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan

(01:35:12) – More about repeaters

(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season

(01:48:05) – Yves’ recent grip comp & climbing goals

(01:55:22) – Yves’ gap analysis for comps

(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals

(01:59:05) – Yves’ job as a special effects artist

(02:01:06) – Yves’ YouTube channel

(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports

(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip

(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Avsnitt(385)

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project,...

10 Mars 20251h 51min

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

EP 262: Max Didier — Quitting the Air Force to Climb, Enjoying the Process, and Projecting a Potential V17 in South America

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicit...

3 Mars 20252h 40min

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

EP 261: Chris Sharma & Ron Kauk — The Essence of Climbing, ‘Vision Quest’ FA, and Following Your Own Path

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity...

24 Feb 20252h

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

EP 260: Caroline Ciavaldini — The Magic and Selfishness of Competition, Becoming Adventurous, and Gentle Feminism

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic an...

17 Feb 20252h 30min

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

EP 259: Randy Leavitt — Developing 1000+ New Routes, the Anti-dirtbag Lifestyle, and Why the Best Day of Surfing Beats Climbing

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journ...

10 Feb 20252h 1min

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Follow-Up: Dave MacLeod — Mindset Shifts, Choosing Finger Training Protocols, & How to Be a Pro-environmental Carnivore

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushi...

5 Feb 202538min

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

EP 258: Louise Shepherd — “The Lynn Hill of Australia” on Her Dirtbag Days, Flying Breasts, & How to Save Arapiles Climbing

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of t...

3 Feb 20251h 45min

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

EP 257: Sol Wertkin — Surviving Cancer, a Richer Life After Climbing, and Saying Goodbye to Johnny G.

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoeche...

27 Jan 20253h 8min

Populärt inom Utbildning

rss-bara-en-till-om-missbruk-medberoende-2
historiepodden-se
det-skaver
alska-oss
harrisons-dramatiska-historia
nu-blir-det-historia
roda-vita-rosen
johannes-hansen-podcast
allt-du-velat-veta
sektledare
rss-viktmedicinpodden
not-fanny-anymore
i-vantan-pa-katastrofen
sa-in-i-sjalen
rss-max-tant-med-max-villman
rss-basta-livet
rss-sjalsligt-avkladd
sex-pa-riktigt-med-marika-smith
rss-pa-insidan-med-bjorn-rudman
rss-ar-det-rimligt