Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing:

The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers

authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012.

They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpreting the data. Tune in to see who wins in the finger strength battle between Minimum Edge Depth and Maximum Added Weight!

New episodes drop on Wednesdays. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all your friends who are constantly telling you that their hang protocol is the number one best protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

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Check out both of our Kettlebells for Climbers ebooks!

If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Avsnitt(28)

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31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

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24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

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In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

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10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

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In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

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