Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?

In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez:

Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019.

They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!

*Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode:

From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.

Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.

Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website.

Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram

Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram

If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub.

Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.

Avsnitt(28)

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to...

23 Okt 20238min

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?

In the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in:   Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Clim...

14 Sep 202231min

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews:   Current Approaches on Wa...

7 Sep 202252min

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple...

31 Aug 202250min

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?

In this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and ...

24 Aug 202252min

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skil...

17 Aug 202256min

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gra...

10 Aug 202252min

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?

In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Rela...

3 Aug 202253min

Populärt inom Vetenskap

p3-dystopia
dumma-manniskor
allt-du-velat-veta
svd-nyhetsartiklar
kapitalet-en-podd-om-ekonomi
det-morka-psyket
doden-hjarnan-kemisten
sexet
medicinvetarna
rss-ufo-bortom-rimligt-tvivel-2
rss-vetenskapsradion
paranormalt-med-caroline-giertz
rss-vetenskapsradion-2
rss-spraket
vetenskapsradion
4health-med-anna-sparre
har-vi-akt-till-mars-an
halsorevolutionen
bildningspodden
dumforklarat