Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock ...
27 Juli 202244min
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
In this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the s...
20 Juli 202238min
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
In the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport r...
13 Juli 202249min
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing p...
22 Juni 202247min
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
For a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum e...
15 Juni 202225min
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected an...
15 Juni 202247min
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
In this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more...
1 Juni 202251min
