EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

EP 244: Felipe Camargo — The Power of Drive + Creativity, Tropical Lines in Brazil, & Moonboard Endurance Circuits

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargo

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:17) – Felipe’s intro to climbing

(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall

(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster

(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b

(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition

(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain

(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling

(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF

(00:25:45) – Representing South America

(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)

(00:28:33) – Goal oriented

(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”

(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)

(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo

(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall

(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga

(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training

(00:54:29) – When to specialize

(00:57:22) – Felipe’s training as a kid

(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines

(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil

(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil

(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America

(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines

(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+

(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16

(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)

(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)

(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard

(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Avsnitt(384)

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will ...

18 Dec 20233h 1min

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

EP 198: Travis Tameirao — The Day His Life Changed Forever, Climbing V10+ With an Artificial Knee, and Taking the Wheel

Travis Tameirao is a 33-year-old from Rhode Island. On August 13, 2018, his life changed in a freak accident in the climbing gym. Three years and a dozen surgeries later, Travis miraculously returned ...

11 Dec 20232h 53min

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

EP 197: Melina Costanza Returns — Harnessing the Power of Nerves, Praising Your Effort, and Choosing Good Over Perfect

Melina Costanza swept the US National Championships in October, making one hell of a comeback after her competition break. She returns to the podcast to talk about why Nationals was the hardest compet...

4 Dec 20231h 40min

EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

EP 196: Pete Whittaker — Chasing the Hardest Cracks in the World, Embracing the Suck, and Futuristic Desert Projects

Pete Whittaker is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers of all time. We talked about his current trip to Moab trying Stranger Than Fiction, how he trained for the FA of Crown Royale 9a, th...

27 Nov 20231h 42min

EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

EP 195: Matt Segal Returns — The Recipe for a Peak Year, Cooking Tips, and High Summits and Higher Grades

Matt Segal is back on the podcast! Matt is one of the boldest trad climbers of his generation and just had his best climbing year ever at age 39. We talked about his new YouTube channel cooking show, ...

20 Nov 20231h 35min

EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do

EP 194: Will Anglin — Why We Should Treat Climbing Like Baseball, and the #1 Thing All Climbers Should Do

Will Anglin is an expert boulderer and the founder of Tension Climbing. I love the way this guy thinks, and there are many nuggets in this episode. We talked about the key principles of climbing hard,...

13 Nov 20232h 55min

EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder

EP 193: Mat Wright — Risking It All to Send, The Power of Specific Goals, and Relaxing Hard to Climb Harder

Mat Wright has quickly established himself as one of the best trad climbers in Britain and is a world-class all-rounder having climbed E11, 5.14c, and V15. We talked about his humble beginnings in low...

6 Nov 20232h 48min

EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life

EP 192: Alex Biale — Bootlegging Wine, Training With Ollie Torr, and the Keys to a Balanced Life

Alex Biale is an elite boulderer based in CO. We talked about his family legacy of bootlegging wine in Napa Valley, how he got into climbing, his legendary training with Jon Glassberg, pushing himself...

30 Okt 20232h 44min

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