TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes

TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes

Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our social media presence, and he's added Online Climbing Trainer to his resume.

Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and currently living in his van on the road. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V12 and is constantly changing and tweaking the ways he trains as he learns new things. Because of his success with his own training and climbing, he began training others. Matt's ability to listen to people's needs, his attention to detail, and his keen interest in all things training contribute to his ability to create effective training plans for his clients.

I wanted to talk with him about how he approaches training people online, as well as his own climbing and training. If you're interested in training with Matt after listening to this interview, you can sign up to work with him at www.trainingbeta.com/matt.

Avsnitt(250)

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers

In this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so...

2 Nov 202229min

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance

Kevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who's been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Cli...

26 Okt 20221h 15min

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing

You may have heard me say that I've been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental "blocks." Well, it's been so valuable working with her that...

19 Okt 20221h 22min

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

TBP 215: How We've Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk abou...

13 Okt 20221h 28min

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

TBP 214: Matt Pincus's 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the ...

29 Sep 20221h 1min

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance

In this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it's tempting to just not eat all day ...

15 Sep 202228min

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants u...

31 Aug 202255min

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing

In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of "endurance" in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic syste...

24 Aug 20221h 17min

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