TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training

TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training

About Tyler Nelson

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we're training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbing we need to have sustained power output over long periods of time. So he describes how to gain more true power endurance using specific techniques.

Tyler recently wrote an article on this topic for TrainingBeta, called High Volume Power Training for Climbers, and this interview is a supplement to that article. If you haven't read it yet, and you're interested in this topic, I highly recommend that you give it a read before or after listening to this interview.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel's first Performance Climbing Coach Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I've done 4 more seminars and 6 other podcast episodes with him:

He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • What high volume power training is good for
  • How it can improve your overall power and power endurance
  • Why it's better for sport climbers than boulderers
  • Why it's important to stop training when you lose power
  • How this kind of training has helped his athletes
  • What to know about high volume power training and how to use it
  • Why campus boards need to have a way to take weight off
Tyler Nelson Links

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here's what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Transcript

Coming soon.

Avsnitt(250)

TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods

TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods

Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.

5 Dec 20191h 15min

Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues

Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues

Marina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.

27 Nov 20191h 8min

TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing

TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing

I talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.

22 Nov 20191h 14min

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

30 Okt 20191h 40min

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

24 Okt 20191h 20min

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

17 Okt 20191h 9min

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

2 Okt 20191h 7min

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

9 Sep 20191h 22min

Populärt inom Fritid

somna-med-henrik
uggla-ugglas-podcast
man-i-grupp
svenska-fpl-podden
roda-vita-rosen
rss-horrujeje
elbilsveckan
rss-max-tant-med-max-villman
rss-livsreglerna
spokhistorier
avsuttet-med-elsa-johanna
sexet
travpodden
skillnadens-av-sara-backmo
rss-okrystat
dela-en-flaska-med-alf-petter
rss-vara-klassiker
rss-speljuntan
kontrollbehov
rss-algjagare-emellan