TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol

In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention.

Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we're used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there's actually a better way.

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I'm going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he's not working he's climbing or hiking outside with his family.

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates training programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

Tyler's ability to question what we take for granted and provide relevant research is unparalleled, and I was psyched to hear about this new way of doing things. He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

Other Episodes with Tyler

Tyler Nelson Interview Details
  • Why just climbing easy stuff isn't the most effective way to warm up
  • How to warm up instead using a series of exercises to prep your whole body to try hard
  • How this way of warming up is good for injury prevention for climbers
  • The youth teams he's tested this on have all had great results
  • How to incorporate it into team practice or your own climbing
Tyler Nelson Links

Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more.

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TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus

This episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was wo...

8 Mars 20231h 36min

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training

In this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 pati...

22 Feb 202358min

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers

This episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I've ever done, and I'll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Be...

1 Feb 20231h 39min

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer

In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They're both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, s...

19 Jan 20231h 23min

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so sh...

4 Jan 20231h 11min

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days

In this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there's a growing ne...

14 Dec 20221h 17min

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger

In this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the tr...

8 Dec 20221h 19min

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing

David Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He's been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump ...

16 Nov 20221h 18min

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