The Podcast on alanarnette.com8 Maj 2022

Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 8 - Ropes to the Summit!

It was a busy week in the Himalayas with summits on multiple 8000ers, including Everest. On the Nepal side of the mountain, Kami Rita Sherpa led the rope team to the summit and at the same time extended his summit record to 26. Sadly, there were two more deaths of the season, one on Kangchenchunga and another on Everest. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. With the good weather emerging, the summit trolls will now allow everyone to make their attempts. Big Picture 2022 is turning out to be an unusual season but in a good way. On Thursday, I did a podcast with three world-class meteorologists, Michael Fagen of Everest Weather, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions, and Marc De Keyser of Weather4expeditions , about what we are seeing and can expect these last few weeks of the season. They all agreed that it is warmer than usual, drier than usual, and with less wind than usual. The culprit is the Jet Stream is not sitting on top of Everest like it usually does. They even suggested that we may see another year like in 2018 when we had 11 consecutive days of low winds that allowed a record year for Everest summits with 802 summits on both sides. The Nepal side saw a total of 562 summits made up of 266 foreigners (aka members) and 296 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas). We won't see anything like that number of summits in 2022, perhaps around 400, including support. A wild card was a potential typhoon brewing in the Bay of Bengal but now it appears that "ASANI" will track away from making landfall. Again, there are currently NO typhoon warnings issued by the Joint Typhoon Warning Center. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

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Broad Peak 2026 Lessons From a Tragedy

Two weeks ago today, on July 30, 2026, ten climbers died in a single avalanche on Broad Peak. The event has received extensive media coverage, in part because Nirmal “Nims” Purja, one of the most cons...

14 Aug 27min

Podcast with Ryan Mitchell & Justin Sackett: No O's Everest Update and Plans

Ryan Mitchell, a former Summit Coach client, planned to climb two 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett, but not everything went ...

6 Aug 52min

Madalin (Cris) Cristea's Everest 2026 Sea-Summit-Sea Podcast

Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, summitted Everest on May 20, the busiest day of the season, along with 273 other people. But he didn't just "summit"; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (a...

3 Juli 1h 50min

Denali 2026 Coverage: Podcast with Summiteer - John Bartolic

The Denali 2026 season is well underway, with a dated climber report as of June 1, 2026, of 513 climbers, mainly on the West Buttress route. 97 climbers have completed their trips, and 381 are left to...

17 Juni 55min

Everest 2026 Season Summary–Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds

Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That's my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, "normal."The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. T...

3 Juni 32min

Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update Record Season Over & 1 More Death?

The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines,...

31 Maj 11min

Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update Nearing the End

What a week on Everest and Lhotse. The first Everest summits were on May 13 by the rope team, plus a few fast followers. Then the jet came in and stopped everyone, and when it left, well, hundreds sum...

24 Maj 25min

Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths

A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. Th...

22 Maj 9min