Hannes Huch on Community in the Frankenjura, Wolfgang Güllich, and Kurt Albert

Hannes Huch on Community in the Frankenjura, Wolfgang Güllich, and Kurt Albert

Because the history of the Frankenjura can’t be told without Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich, both of whom we lost too soon, I wanted to talk to someone rooted in that community to try and get an understanding of how their legacy looks. For me, the obvious choice was Hannes Huch. He’s a photographer and artist who balances a modern aesthetic with a love for history, and that’s evident in his work with Cafe Kraft and the Gimme Kraft! books as well as Jerry Moffat’s Mastermind book, and many other projects.

In this episode we talk Kurt, Wolfgang, and Jerry, legacy, the importance of connecting with community, and how climbing is the perfect sport if you should ever need to escape from prison.

Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more!

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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.

This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

Avsnitt(86)

Steve McClure on Ben Moon and Climbing Hubble

Steve McClure on Ben Moon and Climbing Hubble

In 2000, Steve McClure completed a project Ben Moon had spent 120 days on and left unfinished, calling it Northern Lights and giving it 9a. The torch was passed. A few years later, he climbed a route that completed his journey - Hubble - saying that it might be more important to him than his own first ascents. One of which was Mutation, a candidate for the first 9a+ or even 9b in the world. In this bonus episode, Steve and Kris discuss the impact of Ben Moon and Hubble, the passing of the torch, and how it felt to have Ben return to form by climbing Steve’s 9a route Rainshadow. Get more at our website.  ------------------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE for 20% off at checkout. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

15 Nov 202350min

Buster Martin on Ben Moon and Hubble

Buster Martin on Ben Moon and Hubble

Buster Martin burst onto the UK climbing scene as a 16-year-old by climbing Bat Route, a famous 14b at Malham. And even though he took a break from climbing, he didn’t fizzle out entirely like many prodigies tend to do. Instead, he came back with a vengeance by climbing BOTH Hubble and Action Directe, becoming only the 2nd person to clip chains on both of these test pieces.  Buster joins Kris to discuss Raven Tor and Hubble, trading texts with Ben while working both routes, the debates around Hubble, why history matters, and of course, what Ben Moon means to the British climbing scene.  Check out more info on our website.  ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE for 20% off at checkout. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

13 Nov 202351min

Ben Moon Launches Into Orbit

Ben Moon Launches Into Orbit

It’s hard to argue that any climber from the 90’s had a bigger impact than Ben Moon, and he did it from the launch of the decade.  While he wasn’t looking for controversy, he also wasn’t afraid to make a statement. All punk rock and dreadlocks, he established the first two 14b’s in France, with names like missiles aimed directly at the French. He defied British ethics to move the sport forward into the next century. And yes, he even broke Wolfgang Gullich’s streak of firsts by establishing Hubble, the first 14c (maybe even 14d) in the world. Learn more at our website. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE for 20% off at checkout. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

6 Nov 202329min

Katie Brown on Climbing with Lynn Hill and Her Other-Worldliness

Katie Brown on Climbing with Lynn Hill and Her Other-Worldliness

If Lynn Hill kicked in the door at the start of the 90s, then Katie Brown ripped it from it’s hinges as the decade came to a close. On April 11, 1999, Katie onsighted Omaha Beach in the Red River Gorge, becoming the first woman to onsight 13d. (The route was later upgraded to 14a after hold breakage). But even before this feat, Lynn Hill called Katie the best sport climber in the history of the sport. On this episode, Katie Brown joins Kris to discuss Lynn Hill's impact on her and the climbing community at large.   Katie shares her early memories of Lynn, what it was like climbing and learning from her, and how it all differs from their friendship as adults. You can learn more at our website here! ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

30 Okt 202337min

Lynn Hill Reaches Critical Mass

Lynn Hill Reaches Critical Mass

If the 1990’s had a door, then Lynn Hill, one of the first American climbers to embrace the new European climbing ethics, definitely kicked it in. At the start of the decade, no woman had climbed 5.14, and one particular French superstar had said that no woman WOULD EVER climb the grade. And so Lynn, channeling the energy from the men who had always told her she couldn’t, rose up from an accident that nearly killed her to prove him wrong, and to change the course of women’s climbing forever. Learn more at our website. ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE for 20% off at checkout. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

30 Okt 202327min

Written in Stone S1: The 1990s

Written in Stone S1: The 1990s

The French vs. the British. Ethics wars. The hardest moves ever done on rock. A ghost in the forest and women showing the boys how it should be done. Host Kris Hampton tells the stories of rock climbing's most important ascents and characters from a decade that would prove pivotal in the development of the sport: the 1990s.  The legends are all here. Moon, Hill, Skinner, Tribout, Nicole, Gullich and MORE! Produced by Kris Hampton with help from Ryley Rush and Emily Holland for Plug Tone Audio. www.plugtoneaudio.com

6 Okt 20235min

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