Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Avsnitt(2619)

Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orléans

Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orléans

Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orleans has been described by historians as having been one of the richest heiresses in history, as an insurgent, as unaccomplished, as an Amazon, as a writer, and as a fool. And she was sort of all of those things.  Research:  Barine, Arvede, and Helen Meyer. “La Grande Mademoiselle 1627-1652.” Putnam. 1902. Accessed online: https://www.gutenberg.org/files/50717/50717-h/50717-h.htm Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orléans, duchess de Montpensier". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Anne-Marie-Louise-dOrleans-duchesse-de-Montpensier DeJean, Joan. “Against Marriage: The Correspondence of La Grande Mademoiselle.” Chicago University Press. 2002. “France’s Mid-17th-Century Crisis: The Fronde (1648-1653).” University of Kentucky. https://history.as.uky.edu/france%E2%80%99s-mid-17th-century-crisis-fronde-1648-1653 Fraser, Antonia. “Love and Louis XIV: The Women in the Life of the Sun King.” Anchor Books. 2007. “La Grande Mademoiselle 1627-1693.” Chateau de Versailles. https://en.chateauversailles.fr/discover/history/great-characters/grande-mademoiselle Montpensier, Anne-Marie-Louise d’Orleans. “Memoirs of Mademoiselle de Montpensier, grand-dughter of Henri Quatre, and niece of Queen Henrietta-Maria.” London, Colburn. 1848. https://archive.org/details/memoirsmademois02montgoog/page/n10/mode/2up Sackville-West, V. “Daughter of France: the life of Anne Marie Louise d'Orléans, duchesse de Montpensier, 1627-1693, la Grande Mademoiselle.” Doubleday. 1959. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/daughteroffrance00sack/page/30/mode/2up See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

5 Feb 202433min

SYMHC Classics: Dr. Vera Peters

SYMHC Classics: Dr. Vera Peters

This 2015 episode examines how Dr. Peters helped revolutionize the treatment of both breast cancer and Hodgkin's lymphoma. But, at the time, her work was largely dismissed.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

3 Feb 202425min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Anthony's Secrets and Mammograms

Behind the Scenes Minis: Anthony's Secrets and Mammograms

Holly and Tracy discuss van Dyck's personal life and historical photography. They also discuss mammogram science and try to reassure listeners about the experience.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

2 Feb 202429min

A History of Mammography

A History of Mammography

The history of mammography begins with the discovery of X-rays in 1895. But it took a very long time for breast imaging to advance, in part because it wasn't prioritized.  Research: “The St George’s Four: Meet the women that shaped St George’s.” St. George’s University of London. 3/8/2019. https://www.sgul.ac.uk/news/the-st-george-s-four-meet-the-women-that-shaped-st-george-s American Physical Society. “This Month in Physics History.” November 2001 (Volume 10, Number 10). https://www.aps.org/publications/apsnews/200111/history.cfm Bassett, Lawrence W. and Richard H. Gold. “The Evolution of Mammography.” AJR 150:493-498, March 1988. Bhidé, Amar et al. “Case Histories of Significant Medical Advances: Mammography.” Harvard Business School Working Paper 20-002. 2021. CROWTHER, J. Röntgen Centenary and Fifty Years of X-Rays. Nature 155, 351–353 (1945). https://doi.org/10.1038/155351a0 Davis, Devra. “The Secret History Of Mammography.” HuffPost. 11/17/2011. https://www.huffpost.com/entry/the-secret-history-of-mam_b_364733 Haus, Arthur G. “Historical Technical Developments in Mammography. Technology in Cancer Research & Treatment. ISSN 1533-0346. Volume 1, Number 2, April (2002) Kalaf, José Michael. “Mammography: a history of success and scientific enthusiasm.” Radiol Bras. 2014 Jul/Ago;47(4):VII–VIII. http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/0100-3984.2014.47.4e2 Lerner, Barron H. “’To See Today With the Eyes of Tomorrow: A History of Screening Mammography.’” CBMH/BCMH I Volume 20:2 2003 / p. 299-321. Lerner, Barron H. “Why Was the US Preventive Services Task Force’s 2009 Breast Cancer Screening Recommendation So Objectionable? A Historical Analysis.” The Milbank Quarterly, September 2022, Vol. 100, No. 3 (September 2022). https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2307/48713998 Lienhard, Dina A., "Mammography". Embryo Project Encyclopedia ( 2018-03-25 ). ISSN: 1940-5030 https://hdl.handle.net/10776/13056 Mao X, He W, Humphreys K, et al. Breast Cancer Incidence After a False-Positive Mammography Result. JAMA Oncol. Published online November 02, 2023. doi:10.1001/jamaoncol.2023.4519 Mekasut, Nitida. “Mammography: From Past to Present.” The Bangkok Medical Journal. February 2011. https://www.bangkokmedjournal.com/sites/default/files/fullpapers/2010-1-Mekasut.pdf Nicosia, Luca et al. “History of Mammography: Analysis of Breast Imaging Diagnostic Achievements over the Last Century.” Healthcare 2023, 11, 1596. https://doi.org/10.3390/healthcare11111596 Ritvo, Max. "The Role of Diagnostic Roentgenology in Medicine." New England Journal of Medicine 262, no. 24 (1960): 1201-09. Skloot, Rebecca. “Taboo Organ: How a Pitt Alum Refused to Let Mammography Be Ignored.” Pittmed. April 2001. https://www.pittmed.health.pitt.edu/apr_2001/taboo_organ.pdf Warren, Stafford L. “A Roentgenologic Study of the Breast.” The American Journal of Roentgenology and Radium Therapy 1930-08: Vol 24 Iss 2. Zenger, Ingo. “The history of mammography.” Siemens. https://www.medmuseum.siemens-healthineers.com/en/stories-from-the-museum/history-mammography  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

31 Jan 202442min

Anthony van Dyck

Anthony van Dyck

Anthony van Dyck was a commercially successful painter in Antwerp and Italy, but he may have had the most influence in England when he served as court painter to King Charles I. Research: Blake, Robin. “Anthony Van Dyck.”  Ivan R. Dee. 2009. “Anthony Van Dyck.” The Art Story. https://www.theartstory.org/artist/van-dyck-anthony/ Maddicott, Hilary. “‘Qualis vita, finis ita’: The life and death of Margaret Lemon, mistress of Van Dyck.” The Burlington Magazine. February 2018. https://www.burlington.org.uk/media/_file/generic/article-42279.pdf?fbclid=IwAR2dE5AscipktnTy4QDCc0CN_cYOlVYCPkNerrHsR0oi0V4zCUdiOpEz2to Solly, Meilan. “Digital Art Detectives Identify Original van Dyck Portrait.” Smithsonian. Oct. 10, 2019. https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/digital-art-detectives-identify-original-van-dyck-portrait-spanish-royal-180973308/ Liedtke, Walter. “Peter Paul Rubens (1577–1640) and Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641): Paintings.” The Met. October 2003. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/rvd_p/hd_rvd_p.htm Vance, Heidi. “15 Facts About Anthony van Dyck: A Man Who Knew Many Faces.” The Collector. Aug. 16, 2020. https://www.thecollector.com/anthony-van-dyck-painter/ “In focus: Sir Anthony van Dyck.” National Portrait Gallery. https://www.npg.org.uk/assets/files/pdf/learning/NPG_VanDyck_14.pdf “The Iconographie and Other Early Portrait Prints after Van Dyck.” The Frick Collection. https://www.frick.org/exhibitions/van_dyck/iconographie White, Christopher. “Anthony van Dyck and the Art of Portraiture.” Modern Art Press. 2021. Wood, Jeremy. “Dyck, Sir Anthony [formerlyAntoon] Van.” Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Sept. 23, 2004. https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/28081 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

29 Jan 202438min

SYMHC Classics: Orphan Tsunami

SYMHC Classics: Orphan Tsunami

This 2013 episode covers a tsunami that struck the coast of Japan in January 1700, . It took a while -- a long while -- to figure out where the catalyzing earthquake had been.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Jan 202423min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Succession and the Roeblings

Behind the Scenes Minis: Succession and the Roeblings

Holly talks about her infatuation with the show "Succession," and why Tracy might not like it. Tracy talks about a unique bridge designed by John Roebling. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

26 Jan 202425min

Emily Warren Roebling and the Brooklyn Bridge

Emily Warren Roebling and the Brooklyn Bridge

Emily Warren Roebling played a crucial role in the construction of the Brooklyn Bridge after her husband became disabled. It’s a story of an engineering marvel and what mainstream U.S. society expected of women and disabled people in the 19th century.  Research: American Monthly Magazine. “Mrs. Washington A. Roebling.” Daughters of the American Revolution. 1892. https://archive.org/details/americanmonthlymv17daug/ Ashworth, William B. Jr. “Emily Warren Roebling.” Linda Hall Library. https://www.lindahall.org/about/news/scientist-of-the-day/emily-warren-roebling/ Bennett, Jessica. “Emily Warren Roebling.” New York Times. 2018. https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2018/obituaries/overlooked-emily-warren-roebling.html Bowery Boys. “PODCAST: The Brooklyn Bridge.” 1/11/2008. https://www.boweryboyshistory.com/2008/01/brooklyn-bridge.html Brady, Sean. “The Brooklyn Bridge: Tragedy Overcome (Part 1).” The Structural Engineer. March 2015. Brady, Sean. “The Brooklyn Bridge: Tragedy Overcome (Part 2).” The Structural Engineer. April 2015. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Emily Warren Roebling". Encyclopedia Britannica, 8 Dec. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Emily-Warren-Roebling. Accessed 9 January 2024. Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Washington Augustus Roebling". Encyclopedia Britannica, 17 Jul. 2023, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Washington-Augustus-Roebling. Accessed 9 January 2024. Brooklyn Daily Eagle. “Mrs. Washington A. Roebling.” 3/1/1903. https://bklyn.newspapers.com/image/53405737/ “Col. W.A. Roebling.” The Brooklyn Union. 5/16/1883. https://www.newspapers.com/image/541841261/ “Cost of Marrying a Foreigner.” The Buffalo Review. 8/27/1889. https://www.newspapers.com/image/354435395/ “Danger In It.” Brooklyn Daily Eagle. 10/1/1889. https://www.newspapers.com/image/50407904/ "Emily Roebling." Notable Women Scientists, Gale, 2000. Gale In Context: Science, link.gale.com/apps/doc/K1668000367/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=0de2e1e2. Accessed 18 Dec. 2023. Flagg, Thomas R. "Brooklyn Bridge." Encyclopedia of New York State, edited by Peter R. Eisenstadt and Laura-Eve Moss, Syracuse UP, 2005, p. 223. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A194195370/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=a49d8b0e. Accessed 18 Dec. 2023. Hewitt, Abram S. “Oration. From: Opening ceremonies of the New York and Brooklyn bridge, May 24, 1883. Press of the Brooklyn Job Printing Department. 1883. https://archive.org/details/openingceremoni00bridgoog “In the Dark.” The Brooklyn Union. 7/11/1882. https://www.newspapers.com/image/541767454/ “John Roebling Ferry Accident.” Brooklyn Daily Eagle. 6/30/1869. https://www.newspapers.com/image/60752419/ Juravich, Nick. “Emily Warren Roebling: Building the Brooklyn Bridge and Beyond.” New York Historical Society. 5/30/2018. https://www.nyhistory.org/blogs/emily-warren-roebling-beyond-the-bridge Library of Congress. “Roebling and the Brooklyn Bridge.” https://www.loc.gov/item/today-in-history/june-12/ “Mrs. Roebling Dead.” New-york Tribune. 3/1/1903. https://www.newspapers.com/image/467730770/ New York Historical Society. “Life Story: Emily Warren Roebling (1843–1903).” Women & the American Story. https://wams.nyhistory.org/industry-and-empire/labor-and-industry/emily-warren-roebling/ Petrash, Antonia. “More than petticoats. Remarkable New York women.” 2002. “Battling Tetanus.” https://www.si.edu/spotlight/antibody-initiative/battling-tetanus Tiwari, Tejpratap S.P. et al. “Tetanus.” Centers for Disease Control. 2021. https://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/pubs/pinkbook/tetanus.htm “With Women Lawyers.” The Woman's Journal 1899-04-08: Vol 30 Iss 14. https://archive.org/details/sim_the-womans-journal_1899-04-08_30_14/page/109/ See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

24 Jan 202440min

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