Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Avsnitt(2628)

Paul Robeson and the Peekskill Riots

Paul Robeson and the Peekskill Riots

The Peekskill Riots surrounded a concert by singer and activist Paul Robeson. His stances on political and civil rights issues and his communist affiliations catalyzed protests that were fueled with an undercurrent of racism and antisemitism. Research: American Civil Liberties Union. “Violence in Peekskill: A Report on the Violations of Civil Liberties at Two Paul Robeson Concerts near Peekskill, NY.” 1949. By LANSING WARREN Special to THE NEW YORK TIMES. "Paris 'Peace Congress' Assails U. S. and Atlantic Pact, Upholds Soviet: MEETING AT 'PEACE CONGRESS' IN PARIS CONGRESS IN PARIS ASSAILS U. S. POLICY." New York Times (1923-), Apr 21 1949, p. 1. ProQuest. Web. 31 Aug. 2022 . Congress, House, Committee on Un-American Activities, Investigation of the Unauthorized Use of U.S. Passports, 84th Congress, Part 3, June 12, 1956; in Thirty Years of Treason: Excerpts from Hearings Before the House Committee on Un-American Activities, 1938–1968, Eric Bentley, ed. (New York: Viking Press, 1971), 770. Courtney, Steve. “Peekskill's days of infamy: The Robeson riots of 1949.” The Reporter Dispatch, September 5, 1982. http://www.bencourtney.com/peekskillriots/ Democracy “VIDEO: Pete Seeger Recalls the 1949 Peekskill Riot Where He And Paul Robeson Were Attacked.” 1/31/2014. https://www.democracynow.org/2014/1/31/video_pete_seeger_recalls_the_1949 Dorinson, Joseph. “Paul Robeson and Jackie Robinson: Athletes and Activists at Armageddon.” Pennsylvania History: A Journal of Mid-Atlantic Studies , Winter 1999, Vol. 66, No. 1, Paul Robeson. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/27774174 Horne, Field. "Peekskill riots." Encyclopedia of New York State, edited by Peter R. Eisenstadt and Laura-Eve Moss, Syracuse UP, 2005, p. 1190. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A194197875/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=25d15b16. Accessed 30 Aug. 2022. Horne, Gerald. “Paul Robeson: The Artist as Revolutionary.” Pluto Press. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt19b9jxj.9 Hudson River Maritime Museum. “Paul Robeson and the Peekskill Riots.” 1/18/2021. https://www.hrmm.org/history-blog/paul-robeson-and-the-peekskill-riots Huggins, Nathan Irvin. "Paul Robeson." The Nation, vol. 248, no. 11, 20 Mar. 1989, pp. 383+. Gale In Context: Opposing Viewpoints, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A7424117/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=6617e02c. Accessed 30 Aug. 2022. Karp, Jonathan D. “Performing Black-Jewish Symbiosis: The ‘Hassidic Chant’ of Paul Robeson.” American Jewish History, Volume 91, Number 1, March 2003. https://doi.org/10.1353/ajh.2004.0032 "Remembering Peekskill." Jacobin Magazine, 22 June 2017, p. NA. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A675159334/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=459a974b. Accessed 30 Aug. 2022. Robeson, Paul. “The Negro people and the Soviet Union.” 1950. https://palmm.digital.flvc.org/islandora/object/ucf%3A4785 Salkin, Jeffrey K. “Inside The 1949 Westchester KKK Attack Where Rioters Chanted ‘We’re Hitler’s Boys’” Forward. 8/26/2019. https://forward.com/culture/113279/peekskill-riots-1949-westchester-kkk-fascist-attack-jewish-black-attendees/ Shea, Rich. “Paul Robeson Football Star.” Rutgers Today. 3/13/2019. https://www.rutgers.edu/news/paul-robeson-football-star Smith, Ronald A. “The Paul Robeson—Jackie Robinson Saga and a Political Collision.” Journal of Sport History , Summer 1979, Vol. 6, No. 2 (Summer 1979). Via JSTOR. : https://www.jstor.org/stable/43608951 Walwik, Joseph. “Pennsylvania History: A Journal of Mid-Atlantic Studies Vol. 66, No. 1, Paul Robeson (1898-1976)—A Centennial Symposium (Winter 1999).” Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/27774178 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

3 Okt 202238min

SYMHC Classics: The Hagley Woods Murder

SYMHC Classics: The Hagley Woods Murder

This 2016 episode covers a skeleton found in a tree near Birmingham, England in 1943. More than 70 years later, it's still unknown who the deceased was and how the body ended up in an elm tree.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

1 Okt 202226min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Oh, Charles

Behind the Scenes Minis: Oh, Charles

Holly and Tracy discuss the difficult nature of Chapin's personality. They also talk about the ways that the rivalry between Pulitzer and Hearst played out, and the way one of Chapin's employees got quiet revenge. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

30 Sep 202215min

Charles Chapin’s Complicated Life, Part 2

Charles Chapin’s Complicated Life, Part 2

Chapin's successful journalism career crumbled as stress chipped away at his mental health, and he committed a terrible crime. But there were still surprises left to his story.  Research:  “Of the Dynamite Explosion in Russell Sage’s Office.” The Leaf-Chronicle (Clarkeville, Tennessee). Dec. 7, 1891. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/353237459/?terms=%22russel%20sage%22&match=1 “A Dynamite Bomb.” The Alliance Herald. Dec. 11, 1891. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/423611027/?terms=%22russel%20sage%22&match=1 “City Slave Girls.” Saturday Evening Kansas Commoner. Aug. 24, 1888. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/382892220/?clipping_id=30641784&fcfToken=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJmcmVlLXZpZXctaWQiOjM4Mjg5MjIyMCwiaWF0IjoxNjYyNDY2MjA3LCJleHAiOjE2NjI1NTI2MDd9.eLdfDQGTjlV-7dafIRsWSWJokfMsSrhH2IM2_6e5T7M “New York World Editor Kills Wife.” Intelligencer Journal. Sept. 17, 1918. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/557223275/?terms=%22Charles%20E.%20Chapin%22&match=1 Morris, James McGrath. “The Rose Man of Sing Sing: A True Tale of Life, Murder, and Redemption in the Age of Yellow Journalism.” Fordham University Press. 2003. Chapin, Charles. “Winnetka’s Horror.” Chicago Tribune. Feb. 14, 1884. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349741239/?terms=Winnetka%27s%20Horror&match=1 “Editor Chapin Sane.” Enid Daily Eagle. Dec. 17, 1918. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/608553349/?terms=%22Charles%20E.%20Chapin%22&match=1 “Mrs. Macaulley’s Crime.” Chicago Tribune. Dec. 25, 1887. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349513839/?terms=%22william%20macaulley%22&match=1 Chapin, Charles E. “Charles Chapin's Story Written in Sing Sing Prison.” G.P. Putnam. 1920. Read online: https://books.google.com/books?id=UmZMAAAAMAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s “Russell Sage’s Will.” The Ordway New Era. August 3, 1906. https://www.coloradohistoricnewspapers.org/?a=d&d=ONE19060803-01.2.45&e=-------en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxCO%7ctxTA--------0------ Snow, Richard, “Charles Chapin.” American Heritage. December 1979. https://www.americanheritage.com/charles-chapin “Prisoner McKeague.” Chicago Tribune. February 26, 1884. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349741560/?terms=neal%20mckeague&match=1 Roberts, Sam. “Archives From Prisons in New York Are Digitized.” New York Times. July 6, 2014. https://www.nytimes.com/2014/07/07/nyregion/new-york-prison-archives-are-digitized-by-ancestry-com.html Wingfield, Valerie. “The General Slocum Disaster of June 15, 1904.” New York Public Library. June 13, 2011. https://www.nypl.org/blog/2011/06/13/great-slocum-disaster-june-15-1904 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

28 Sep 202240min

Charles Chapin’s Complicated Life, Part 1

Charles Chapin’s Complicated Life, Part 1

Chapin built a life people envied, and had a great deal of power. His entire biography is full of noteworthy achievements and awards. As a newsman, he covered many of the key moments of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  Research: “Of the Dynamite Explosion in Russell Sage’s Office.” The Leaf-Chronicle (Clarkeville, Tennessee). Dec. 7, 1891. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/353237459/?terms=%22russel%20sage%22&match=1 “A Dynamite Bomb.” The Alliance Herald. Dec. 11, 1891. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/423611027/?terms=%22russel%20sage%22&match=1 “City Slave Girls.” Saturday Evening Kansas Commoner. Aug. 24, 1888. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/382892220/?clipping_id=30641784&fcfToken=eyJhbGciOiJIUzI1NiIsInR5cCI6IkpXVCJ9.eyJmcmVlLXZpZXctaWQiOjM4Mjg5MjIyMCwiaWF0IjoxNjYyNDY2MjA3LCJleHAiOjE2NjI1NTI2MDd9.eLdfDQGTjlV-7dafIRsWSWJokfMsSrhH2IM2_6e5T7M “New York World Editor Kills Wife.” Intelligencer Journal. Sept. 17, 1918. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/557223275/?terms=%22Charles%20E.%20Chapin%22&match=1 Morris, James McGrath. “The Rose Man of Sing Sing: A True Tale of Life, Murder, and Redemption in the Age of Yellow Journalism.” Fordham University Press. 2003. Chapin, Charles. “Winnetka’s Horror.” Chicago Tribune. Feb. 14, 1884. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349741239/?terms=Winnetka%27s%20Horror&match=1 “Editor Chapin Sane.” Enid Daily Eagle. Dec. 17, 1918. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/608553349/?terms=%22Charles%20E.%20Chapin%22&match=1 “Mrs. Macaulley’s Crime.” Chicago Tribune. Dec. 25, 1887. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349513839/?terms=%22william%20macaulley%22&match=1 Chapin, Charles E. “Charles Chapin's Story Written in Sing Sing Prison.” G.P. Putnam. 1920. Read online: https://books.google.com/books?id=UmZMAAAAMAAJ&source=gbs_navlinks_s “Russell Sage’s Will.” The Ordway New Era. August 3, 1906. https://www.coloradohistoricnewspapers.org/?a=d&d=ONE19060803-01.2.45&e=-------en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxCO%7ctxTA--------0------ Snow, Richard, “Charles Chapin.” American Heritage. December 1979. https://www.americanheritage.com/charles-chapin “Prisoner McKeague.” Chicago Tribune. February 26, 1884. https://www.newspapers.com/image/legacy/349741560/?terms=neal%20mckeague&match=1 Roberts, Sam. “Archives From Prisons in New York Are Digitized.” New York Times. July 6, 2014. https://www.nytimes.com/2014/07/07/nyregion/new-york-prison-archives-are-digitized-by-ancestry-com.html Wingfield, Valerie. “The General Slocum Disaster of June 15, 1904.” New York Public Library. June 13, 2011. https://www.nypl.org/blog/2011/06/13/great-slocum-disaster-june-15-1904 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

26 Sep 202233min

SYMHC Classics: General Slocum Disaster

SYMHC Classics: General Slocum Disaster

This 2019 episode covers the burning of the P.S. General Slocum in the East River in New York on June 15, 1904. It had been chartered for a group outing that suddenly became a deadly maritime disaster.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

24 Sep 202230min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Eugene

Behind the Scenes Minis: Eugene

Tracy and Holly talk about hunting for sources for Eugene Jacques Bullard's story, and his unpublished memoir. They also talk about wanting to return to Paris knowing Bullard's story. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

23 Sep 20229min

Eugene Jacques Bullard and the Paris Jazz Age (Pt. 2)

Eugene Jacques Bullard and the Paris Jazz Age (Pt. 2)

After World War I ended, Eugene Jacques Bullard returned to Paris. He worked as a jazz drummer and nightclub owner, and as the tensions that led to World War II loomed, as an intelligence agent for France.  Research: "Bullard, Eugene." Encyclopedia of World Biography, edited by Lisa Kumar, 2nd ed., vol. 37, Gale, 2017, pp. 62-64. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/CX3656400039/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=1958ab1b. Accessed 24 Aug. 2022. Redmon, Jeremy. “The Vanishing Stories of the Bullard Brothers.” Bitter Southerner. https://bittersoutherner.com/the-vanishing-stories-of-the-bullard-brothers Svoboda, Frederic J. "Who was that black man?: a note on Eugene Bullard and 'The Sun Also Rises.'." The Hemingway Review, vol. 17, no. 2, spring 1998, pp. 105+. Gale General OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A20653062/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=c34545bb. Accessed 24 Aug. 2022. Hewitt, Nicholas. "Black Montmartre: American jazz and music hall in Paris in the interwar years." Journal of Romance Studies, vol. 5, no. 3, winter 2005, pp. 25+. Gale Academic OneFile, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A166694624/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=3157a090. Accessed 24 Aug. 2022. Pisano, Dominick. “Eugene J. Bullard.” National Air and Space Museum. https://airandspace.si.edu/stories/editorial/eugene-j-bullard Mandt, Brenda. “Eugene Bullard, the First African American Fighter Pilot and Veteran of Two World Wars.” Museum of Flight. 1/18/2021. https://blog.museumofflight.org/eugene-bullard-the-first-african-american-fighter-pilot-and-veteran-of-two-world-wars Brosnahan, Cori. “The Two Lives of Eugene Bullard.” PBS American Experience. 4/3/2017. https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/features/great-war-two-lives-eugene-bullard/ Lloyd, Craig. "Eugene Bullard." New Georgia Encyclopedia, 19 November 2002, https://www.georgiaencyclopedia.org/articles/history-archaeology/eugene-bullard-1895-1961/. National WWII Museum. “Eugene Bullard: Hero of Two World Wars.” 2/4/2021. Via YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIKDvou2fq0 Lloyd, Craig. “Eugene Bullard: Black Expatriate in Jazz-age Paris.” University of Georgia Press. 2006. Keith, Phil and Tom Clavin. “All Blood Runs Red: The Legendary Life of Eugene Bullard – Boxer, Pilot, Soldier, Spy.” Hanover Square Press, 2019. Asukile, Thabiti. “J.A. Rogers' ‘Jazz at Home’: Afro-American Jazz in Paris During the Jazz Age.” The Black Scholar , FALL 2010, Vol. 40, No. 3. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/41163931 See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

21 Sep 202236min

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