Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Ellen Curtis Demorest and Ebeneezer Butterick are the two names most often invoked as the start of multi-sized patterns printed for home sewists. Once they proved it was a viable business, a lot of other offerings appeared.

Research:

  • Alcega, Joan de. “Libro de geometria, practica y traça.” Madrid.1580. Accessed online:https://www.loc.gov/resource/gdcwdl.wdl_07333/
  • Aldarondo, Abner. “A Master Tailor’s Manual.” Folger Shakespeare Library. Jan. 10, 2023. https://www.folger.edu/blogs/collation/a-master-tailors-manual/
  • Bertrand, J.E. “Descriptions des arts et métiers faites ou approuvées.” l'Imprimerie de la Société Typographique. 1780. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdid=book-SAWFeeXzMgYC&rdot=1
  • Boullay, Benoit. “Le Tailleur Sincère, Contenant Ce Qu'il Faut Observer Pour Bien Tracer, Couper.” (Reproduction.) Hachette Livre Bnf. 2012.
  • Buckley, Cheryl. “On the Margins: Theorizing the History and Significance of Making and Designing Clothes at Home.” Journal of Design History, vol. 11, no. 2, 1998, pp. 157–71. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/1316192
  • Crane, Ellen Bicknell. “Historic Homes and Institutions and Genealogical and Personal memoirs of Worcester County, Massachusetts.” Lewis Publishing Company. 1907. Accessed online: https://books.google.com/books?id=nfhSZxL8bTEC&source=gbs_navlinks_s
  • Crossland, Samantha R. “Made in Minneapolis, sewn all over the world.” Hennepin History. 2021, Vol. 80, No. 2. https://hennepinhistory.org/from-the-magazine-made-in-minneapolis/
  • Demorest, Ellen. “The Question of Labor. Women’s Work and Wages.” New York Times. Nov. 18, 1863. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1863/11/18/78710875.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “The Educational Legacy of Simplicity Pattern Company.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/the-educational-legacy-of-simplicity-pattern-company
  • Emery, Joy Spanabel. “A History of the Paper Pattern Industry: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution.” Bloomsbury Visual Arts. 2020.
  • Freyle, Diego de. “Geometria Y Traça Para El Oficio De Los Sastres.” Sevilla, Spain. 1588. Accessed online: https://archive.org/details/1588-geometria-y-traca-para-el-oficio-de-los-sastres/page/n1/mode/2up
  • Johnson, Susan. “’Madame’ Demorest—The Woman at the Top of a 19-Century Fashion Empire.” Museum of the City of New York. April 15, 2020. https://www.mcny.org/story/madame-demorest-woman-top-19-century-fashion-empire
  • The Editors of Encyclopaedia Britannica. "Ebenezer Butterick". Encyclopedia Britannica, 25 May. 2025, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ebenezer-Butterick
  • Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Ellen Louise Curtis Demorest." Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Nov. 2024, https://www.britannica.com/money/Ellen-Louise-Curtis-Demorest
  • “Demorest’s Illustrated Monthly and Mme. Demorest’s Mirror of Fashions.” April 1865. https://ia802801.us.archive.org/8/items/demorestsillustr00newy/demorestsillustr00newy_bw.pdf
  • “Design Group Americas Voluntarily Files for Chapter 11 Protection, Initiates Sale Process Aimed at Maximizing Value Through Going Concern Transactions.” BusinessWire. July 3, 2025. https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20250703734892/en/Design-Group-Americas-Voluntarily-Files-for-Chapter-11-Protection-Initiates-Sale-Process-Aimed-at-Maximizing-Value-Through-Going-Concern-Transactions
  • “Joseph M. Shapiro of Simplicity, 79.” New York Times. July 31, 1968. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1968/07/31/76959179.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0
  • “Millinery.” New York Times. Nov. 7, 1853. https://www.newspapers.com/image/20309463/?match=1&terms=%22Mme.%20Demorest%22
  • “The 40’s from The War Effort to The New Look - Championing Fashion that Matters.” Simplicity Patterns. September 2024. https://simplicity.com/blog/vogue-patterns-an-evolution-of-american-style
  • Queen, James and William Lapsley. “The Tailor’s Instructor.” Philadelphia. 1809. Accessed online: https://dn790007.ca.archive.org/0/items/taylorsinstructo00quee/taylorsinstructo00quee.pdf
  • Reyes-Martinez, Marcos A. “The Vara: A Standard of Length With a Not-So-Standard History.” National Institute of Standards and Technology. Oct. 11, 2019. https://www.nist.gov/blogs/taking-measure/vara-standard-length-not-so-standard-history
  • Walsh, Margaret. “The Democratization of Fashion: The Emergence of the Women’s Dress Pattern Industry.” The Journal of American History, vol. 66, no. 2, 1979, pp. 299–313. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1900878

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Laocoön and His Sons

Laocoön and His Sons

Laocoön is a figure in Greek legend, and the inspiration for a beautiful sculpture in the Vatican Museums. And that work of art has been on quite a journey through time.  Research: “ANN: Archaeologist and art dealer Ludwig Pollak and his family to be remembered by memorial stones.” Art Market Studies. Jan. 7, 2022. https://www.artmarketstudies.org/ann-archaeologist-and-art-dealer-ludwig-pollak-and-his-family-to-be-remembered-by-memorial-stones-rome-piazza-santi-apostoli-81-22-jan-2022-930am/ Tracy, S. V. “Laocoön’s Guilt.” The American Journal of Philology, vol. 108, no. 3, 1987, pp. 451–54. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/294668. Darwin, Charles. “The Expression of the Emotions in Man and Animals.” 1872. Accessed online: https://brocku.ca/MeadProject/Darwin/Darwin_1872_07.html The William Blake Archive. “LAOCOÖN (COMPOSED C. 1815, C. 1826-27).” http://www.blakearchive.org/work/Laocoön Richman-Abdou, Kelly. “All About ‘Laocoön and His Sons’: A Marble Masterpiece From the Hellenistic Period.” My Modern Met. January 9, 2019. https://mymodernmet.com/Laocoön-and-his-sons-statue/ Virgil. “The Aeneid Book II.” Poetry in Translation. https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/Latin/VirgilAeneidII.php#anchor_Toc536009309 Ludwig, Wolfgang. “Der dritte Arm des Laokoon.”   Weiner Zeitung. Nov. 7, 2021. https://www.wienerzeitung.at/nachrichten/kultur/kunst/2111677-Der-dritte-Arm-des-Laokoon.html Rudowski, Victor Anthony. “Lessing Contra Winckelmann.” The Journal of Aesthetics and Art Criticism, vol. 44, no. 3, 1986, pp. 235–43. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/429733 “Cast of Laocoön and his Sons (Roman version of a lost Greek original), c.100BC-50AD.” https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/art-artists/work-of-art/Laocoön-and-his-sons-roman-version-of-a-lost-greek-original Squire, Michael. “Laocoön among the gods, or: On the theological limits of Lessing’s Grenzen’, in A. Lifschitz and M. Squire (eds.), Rethinking Lessing’s Laocoön: Classical Antiquity, the German Enlightenment, and the ‘Limits’ of Painting and Poetry.” Oxford University Press. 2017. Accessed online: https://www.academia.edu/35492441/M_Squire_Laocoön_among_the_gods_or_On_the_theological_limits_of_Lessing_s_Grenzen_in_A_Lifschitz_and_M_Squire_eds_Rethinking_Lessing_s_Laocoön_Classical_Antiquity_the_German_Enlightenment_and_the_Limits_of_Painting_and_Poetry_Oxford_Oxford_University_Press_pp_87_132_2017 “Digital Sculpture Project: Laocoön.” http://www.digitalsculpture.org/Laocoön/index.html Müller, Joachim. "Gotthold Ephraim Lessing". Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Feb. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Gotthold-Ephraim-Lessing Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Laocoön". Encyclopedia Britannica, 28 Aug. 2019, https://www.britannica.com/topic/Laocoön-Greek-mythology. http://www.digitalsculpture.org/Laocoön/index02.html Shattuck, Kathryn. “Is 'Laocoön' a Michelangelo forgery?” New York Times. April 20, 2005. https://www.nytimes.com/2005/04/20/arts/is-Laocoön-a-michelangelo-forgery.html Catterson, Lynn. “Michelangelo’s ‘Laocoön?’” Artibus et Historiae, vol. 26, no. 52, 2005, pp. 29–56. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/20067096/ Montoya, Ruben. “Did Michelangelo fake this iconic ancient statue?” National Geographic. July 16, 2021. https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/history-and-civilisation/2022/03/this-italian-artist-became-the-first-female-superstar-of-the-renaissance Bruschi, Arnaldo. "Donato Bramante". Encyclopedia Britannica, 7 Apr. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Donato-Bramante Webber, Monique. “Who Says Michelangelo Was Right? Conflicting Visions of the Past in Early Modern Prints.” The Public Domain Review. https://publicdomainreview.org/essay/who-says-michelangelo-was-right-conflicting-visions-of-the-past-in-early-modern-prints Grovier, Kelly. “Laocoön and His Sons: The revealing detail in an ancient find.” BBC. July 22, 2021. https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20210721-laocon-and-his-sons-the-ultimate-expression-of-suffering Howard, Seymour. “On the Reconstruction of the Vatican Laocoon Group.” American Journal of Archaeology, vol. 63, no. 4, 1959, pp. 365–69. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/501788https://www.jstor.org/stable/501788 Price, Nicholas, et al. “Historical and Philosophical Issues in the Conservation of Cultural Heritage.” Getty Publications. Sept. 26, 1966. https://books.google.com/books?id=4wi7Bdd8sBQC&dq=%22this+arm,+entangled+by+the+snake,+must+have+been+folded+over+the+head+of+the+statue,%22yet+it+looks+as+if+the+arm+folded+above+the+head+would+have+in+some+way+made+the+work+wrong%3B%22&source=gbs_navlinks_s Pliny the Elder, et al. “The Natural History.” Taylor and Francis, Red Lion Court, Fleet Street. 1855. Accessed online: http://www.perseus.tufts.edu/hopper/text?doc=Perseus:abo:phi,0978,001:36:4  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

27 Juni 202237min

SYMHC Classics: The Cato Street Conspiracy

SYMHC Classics: The Cato Street Conspiracy

This 2017 episode delves into urbanization and mechanization, and all the downsides they brought with them in Great Britain in the years after the Luddite Rebellion. In response, a radical group plotted to assassinate the Prime Minister's entire cabinet.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

25 Juni 202223min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Cosplay and Shakers

Behind the Scenes Minis: Cosplay and Shakers

Holly and Tracy reminisce about the use of the word cosplay in costuming groups and how much controversy it initially stirred up. They then discuss the unique life of Rebecca Cox Jackson and the demands of the Shaker way of life.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

24 Juni 202214min

Mother Rebecca Cox Jackson

Mother Rebecca Cox Jackson

Mother Rebecca Cox Jackson was an outlier among Shakers for a number of reasons, including that she established a community in the city of Philadelphia, which was the only known urban Shaker community. Research: PBS. “Rebecca Cox Jackson.”  Brotherly Love Part 3: 1791-1831. https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/aia/part3/3p247.html Weiss, Lorraine. “A Determined Voice: Mother Rebecca Cox Jackson.” Shaker Heritage Society of Albany New York. 1/1/2021. https://home.shakerheritage.org/mother_rebecca/ Williams, Richard E. “Called and chosen : the story of Mother Rebecca Jackson and the Philadelphia Shakers.” Cheryl Dorschner, editor. American Theological Library Association. 1981. New York Times. “Charges Jealousy in Shaker Colony.” March 21, 1909. Hull, Gloria T. “Review: Rebecca Cox Jackson and the Uses of Power.” Tulsa Studies in Women's Literature , Autumn, 1982, Vol. 1, No. 2. Via JSTOR. https://www.jstor.org/stable/464081 Humez, Jean McMahon. “Gifts of Power: The Writings of Rebecca Jackson, Black Visionary, Shaker Eldress.” University of Massachusetts Press. 1981. Foster, Lawrence. "Shakers." World Religions, Macmillan Library Reference USA, 1987. Macmillan Compendium. Gale In Context: World History, link.gale.com/apps/doc/BT2350085365/GPS?u=mlin_n_melpub&sid=bookmark-GPS&xid=fb8342ab. Accessed 9 June 2022. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

22 Juni 202237min

Interview: Andrew Liptak and the History of Cosplay

Interview: Andrew Liptak and the History of Cosplay

Holly speaks with author Andrew Liptak about his upcoming book "The History of Cosplay," and the way that humans have used costume to play, tell stories and even protest throughout time. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

20 Juni 202252min

SYMHC Classics: Vincent van Gogh

SYMHC Classics: Vincent van Gogh

This 2011 episode from prior hosts Sarah and Deblina covers the artist's life and work. It also examines long-held beliefs about Vincent van Gogh and the debates regarding them. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

18 Juni 202230min

Behind the Scenes Minis: Danger Doge and Time Zones

Behind the Scenes Minis: Danger Doge and Time Zones

Tracy and Holly talk about Falieri's strange shift from respectability to treason, all that slapping, and the city of Venice. They then discuss time zones and Tracy's difficulty with jet lag. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

17 Juni 202219min

Sir Sandford Fleming and the Creation of Time Zones

Sir Sandford Fleming and the Creation of Time Zones

Humans have understood how to calculate the length of a day pretty accurately for a long time. But there wasn’t a standard way to approach time on a global scale until the late 19th century, and happened because of railroads. Research: “INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE HELD AT WASHINGTON FOR THE PURPOSE OF FIXING A PRIME MERIDIAN AND A UNIVERSAL DAY.” (Protocols of the Proceedings.” October 1884. https://www.gutenberg.org/files/17759/17759-h/17759-h.htm Fleming, Sandford. “Terrestrial time: a memoir.” 1876. Digitized: https://archive.org/details/cihm_06112/page/n17/mode/2up Fleming, Sandford. “Papers on time-reckoning and the selection of a prime meridian to be common to all nations.” 1879. Digitized: https://archive.org/details/cihm_03135/page/n17/mode/2up Creet, Mario. “FLEMING , Sir SANDFORD.” Dictionary of Canadian Biography. http://www.biographi.ca/en/bio.php?id_nbr=7370 Creet, Mario. “Sandford Fleming and Universal Time.” Scientia Canadensis. Volume 14, numéro 1-2 (38-39). https://www.erudit.org/fr/revues/scientia/1990-v14-n1-2-scientia3118/800302ar.pdf Shepardson, David. “U.S. Senate approves bill to make daylight saving time permanent.” Reuters. March 16, 2022. https://www.reuters.com/world/us/us-senate-approves-bill-that-would-make-daylight-savings-time-permanent-2023-2022-03-15/ “What Shall Be the Prime Meridian for the World?” International institute for preserving and perfecting weights and measures. Committee on standard time. Cleveland, O., 1884. https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015019895203&view=1up&seq=8 Biggerstaff, Valerie. “Opinion: When Georgia had two time zones.” Appen Media. April 14, 2021. https://www.appenmedia.com/opinion/opinion-when-georgia-had-two-time-zones/article_0bb3e6c4-9c84-11eb-a1f5-6b1a42a8e61a.html Lange, Katie. “Daylight Saving Time Once Known As 'War Time.'” U.S. Department of Defense. March 8, 2019. https://www.defense.gov/News/Feature-Stories/story/Article/1779177/daylight-saving-time-once-known-as-war-time/ “DID BEN FRANKLIN INVENT DAYLIGHT SAVING TIME?” The Franklin Institute. https://www.fi.edu/benjamin-franklin/daylight-savings-time “United States Congressional Serial Set.” U.S. Government Printing Office. Volume 2296. 1885. Accessed online: https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=_1JHAQAAIAAJ&rdid=book-_1JHAQAAIAAJ&rdot=1 Rosenberg, Matt. "The History and Use of Time Zones." ThoughtCo, Aug. 27, 2020, thoughtco.com/what-are-time-zones-1435358. “The New Railroad Time.” New York Times. Oct. 12, 1883. https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1883/10/12/106260579.pdf?pdf_redirect=true&ip=0 Glass, Andrew. “President Wilson signs Standard Time Act, March 19, 1918.” Politico. March 19, 2018. https://www.politico.com/story/2018/03/19/wilson-signs-standard-time-act-march-19-1918-467550 Britannica, The Editors of Encyclopaedia. "Sir Sandford Fleming". Encyclopedia Britannica, 3 Jan. 2022, https://www.britannica.com/biography/Sandford-Fleming “History of Time Zones.” Bureau of Transportation Statistics. Feb. 21, 2021. https://www.bts.gov/geospatial/time-zones Gordon, Nicholas. “The Senate wants to make daylight saving time permanent—but that could leave Americans with less sleep and worse health.” Fortune. March 16, 2022. https://fortune.com/2022/03/16/daylight-saving-time-sleep-senate-protecting-sunshine-act/ “Public Law 89-387 – An ACT To promote the observance of a uniform system of time throughout the United States.” April 13, 1966. https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/STATUTE-80/pdf/STATUTE-80-Pg107.pdf See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

15 Juni 202242min

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