EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

EP 279: Andy Raether — Bringing Routes to Life, How to Be Stronger at 40 than 20, & the Woods Board

Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and making holds, bringing routes and crags to life, sending his hardest boulder (Midlife Crisis V14) at 40 years old, how he trains on The Woods Board, how to master terrible holds, and much more.

Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)

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Use code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.

Chilipad (Don’t Lose Sleep this Summer)

Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep system

Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)

madrock.com

Use code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.

NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)

Use code STEVEN for 15% off

The GRINDS Program (Free Training PDF)

thenuggetclimbing.com

The NUG (My Portable Hangboard)

frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nug

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/andy-raether

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:01:49) – Climbing Magazine ad

(00:03:52) – Andy’s origin story

(00:09:44) – Legendary holds

(00:13:49) – Making climbing holds

(00:16:49) – Early rock climbing & development

(00:23:54) – Menagerie

(00:25:49) – Meeting his wife

(00:28:33) – Moving to Vegas

(00:32:07) – Dad Raether

(00:39:00) – Vegas bolting potential

(00:45:06) – Bringing crags to life

(01:05:53) – Bouldering development

(01:08:34) – Midlife Crisis V14

(01:35:43) – Stronger at 40 than 20

(01:40:15) – Dad Bod

(01:45:04) – Grades

(01:51:50) – Mithril

(01:54:04) – James Litz

(01:58:51) – The Woods Board

(02:06:14) – The mentality of board climbing

(02:10:58) – Monos

(02:14:56) – How Andy trains on the Woods Board

(02:27:30) – Where to climb on the Woods Board

(02:29:08) – Iterating moves (“hangboard” boulder problems)

(02:37:24) – Mirroring each try

(02:41:57) – The Spot Battle

(02:44:00) – Andy’s garage

(02:46:02) – Gyms in Vegas

(02:54:10) – Routesetter Unions

(03:07:06) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Avsnitt(387)

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

EP 13: Bill Ramsey — ‘Jumbo Pumping Hate’, Training with Replicas, and a Two-Part Climbing Career

Bill Ramsey is a professor of philosophy at the University of Nevada Las Vegas and at 59-years-old, still climbs 5.14. We talked about his coffee addiction, his legendary training days and how he uses...

13 Apr 20201h 40min

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

EP 12: Mike Doyle — Lessons From 10+ Years of Coaching, Onsighting Tips, and Working Extra Remotely

Mike Doyle is an elite-level rock climber who balances climbing with a career as a software engineer. He also has a long history of competition climbing and coaching. We talked about lessons learned f...

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EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

EP 11: Shanjean Lee — From Surgical Residency to 5.13+ Trad, Dating Your Climbing Partner, and the Importance of Self-Belief

Shanjean Lee is an orthopedic surgeon and a badass climber whose accomplishments range from V10 boulders, to 5.14a sport, to 5.13+ trad and multi-pitch climbs. We talked about how SJ trained to climb ...

30 Mars 20201h 58min

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

EP 10: Peter Croft — ‘The Shadow’ Game, Training for Linkups, and the Magic of Inspiration

Peter Croft is an absolute legend in climbing. We talked about ‘The Shadow’ in Squamish and how his ascent became a climbing game, lessons from spending time alone, experimenting with burning fat for ...

23 Mars 20201h 45min

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

EP 09: Will Stanhope — The Injury Process, Trad Climbing Tips, and More Climbing Less Training

Will Stanhope is a professional rock climber with many notable ascents in the realm of single and multi-pitch trad climbing, free-soloing, and cutting edge first ascents. We talked about Will’s recent...

16 Mars 202058min

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

EP 06: Brittany Goris — FFA of ‘Stingray’, On and Off Mode, and Living the Dirtbag Dream

Brittany Goris is a rock climber, graphic design artist, and self-proclaimed dirtbag. Her recent obsession has been projecting hard single-pitch trad climbs. We talked about her recent ascent of ‘Stin...

24 Feb 20201h 41min

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

EP 05: Mark DeJohn on Using ART to Treat Carpal Tunnel Syndrome and Overuse Injuries, and Two Stretches Every Climber Should Do

Mark DeJohn is a licensed massage therapist who specialized in Active Release Technique (ART). I began seeing Mark after suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome for six years. Mark was able to fix me us...

17 Feb 20201h 38min

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

EP 04: Alan Watts — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face’ in ...

10 Feb 20202h 17min

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