EP 36: Climb Strong Team — 2020 Training Camp Mashup

This is a mashup episode from the 2020 Climb Strong Training Camp. We talked about hangboard training, strength as a skill, climbing performance, takeaways from the training camp, and lessons learned from coaching athletes. Featuring: Chrissy Vadovszki, Jonathan Siegrist, Ken Klein, Carly Cain, Alex Bridgewater, Kathryn Perkinson, Charlie Manganiello, and Amanda Sempert.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/climb-strong-team

Nuggets:

[Chrissy Vadovszki]

1:37 – Introduction

1:50 – Getting the team together and refreshing principles

3:32 – Strength is safety, “the strongest person isn’t the best climber”, and prioritizing sending

6:17 – Reflecting on the redpoint process, lessons from listening to Jonathan, and the vulnerability of second-tier projects

8:41 – Definition of Second Tier routes

9:21 – Paired exercises, and stoking the fire

10:27 – Chrissy’s take on the value for participants

[Jonathan Siegrist]

12:13 – Introduction

12:35 – Jonathan’s mountain biking crash, shoulder injury, and recovery

19:04 – The goal is to clip chains, losing the plot, and getting to 100% try hard

22:35 – Stacking the odds in his favor, some of Jonathan’s strategies for success, and removing pressure

24:31 – Jonathan’s takeaways from the weekend

[Ken Klein]

26:12 – Introduction

27:06 – Coffee for breakfast

29:09 – “Climbing is magic.”

30:57 – Why Ken thinks the word “impossible” gets used too much in climbing

33:07 – We all experience the same feeling, and the satisfaction of seeing people try hard

34:13 – Ken’s ‘perfect repeat’ drill he uses with newer climbers, and balancing repetition with trying harder moves

38:09 – The One-Touch drill

40:17 – Jonathan’s three-month breakdown

41:52 – Rock sense, and a reminder to do more rock climbing

44:16 – Hangboarding, 7:3, 7:13, and 6:10 repeaters, and max hangs

48:27 – Hold size and crimping on the hangboard

51:40 – Decreasing edge size vs. adding load

52:05 – Strength repeaters vs. max hangs, and the four-burner stove

54:59 – How Ken thinks about different fingerboard protocols depending on the climber and their goals

56:53 – “Three steps forward one step back.”

1:02:59 – Clarification about progressing hangboard sessions

1:04:28 – Owning the weight

[Carly Cain]

1:05:54 – Introduction

1:06:06 – Working with a 16-year-old girl at the training camp

1:08:31 – Getting more comfortable with failing

1:10:44 – Reframing

1:12:08 – Learning to love bouldering

1:13:05 – Life is a work in progress

1:14:38 – Rifle!

[Alex Bridgewater]

1:15:58 – Introduction

1:16:12 – One thing that holds us back, the importance of taking the steps, and pushing ourselves

1:18:47 – Social media, “can’t”, and confidence

1:19:48 – Carlo Traversi’s insight

1:20:47 – Positivity

1:22:14 – “Just go up there and try”, a becoming a better person

1:23:59 – “To the death.”

1:25:20 – Showing emotion, “Leave it up there”, and try hard

[Kathryn Perkinson]

1:27:37 – Introduction

1:27:47 – Coffee for breakfast (again), fresh-baked bread, and breakfast moves

1:28:40 – Moving to Lander, working with Steve as an athlete, and joining the coaching team

1:30:06 – Philosophy

1:30:43 – Participating in the training camp

1:32:02 – Managing a finger injury as a coach

1:33:02 – A helpful reminder

1:34:08 – “We are all far more capable and more powerful than we can imagine.”

1:35:35 – “Climb second-tier routes.”

[Charlie Manganiello]

1:36:43 – Introduction

1:37:03 – “Climbing is really important to people.”

1:38:29 – Keeping climbing in perspective, but not letting go of it completely

1:42:03 – Self-talk, lessons from golf, and putting our negativity away

1:45:08 – “This is where I’m at.”

[Amanda Sempert]

1:48:07 – Introduction

1:48:39 – Kettlebell press, tension techniques, and energy links

1:51:08 – Hardstyle plank

1:53:47 – Kettlebell press cues

1:56:23 – The zipup drill, and practicing tension

1:59:00 – The ‘Quicken The Dead’ program, and trying alactic training

[Outro]

2:01:37 – Gratitude, and how to support the podcast