EP 56: Dave MacLeod (Part 1) — Jumping Up 4 Grades in 18 Months, Fingerboard Rituals, and Nutrient Density

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Donate to Sacred Rok:Directly 👉 sacredrok.orgVia The Nugget 👉 patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:14) – Chickens(00:06:18) – El Salto(00:07:36) – Outline of topics(00:11:27) – Katie’s climbing these days(00:18:38) – Getting more value from climbing trips(00:30:05) – How to continue progressing(00:33:55) – Training & cold plunge routine(00:42:17) – Perimenopause & menopause(00:52:28) – 40:30:30 & nutrition tips for climbers(01:05:35) – Katie’s thoughts on keto & carnivore(01:13:57) – Ingredients to avoid(01:21:58) – Starting Sacred Rok with Ron Kauk(01:35:28) – Getting kids to eat healthy food(01:39:07) – Farm to school(01:47:19) – Affordable nutrition(01:54:36) – Katie’s go-to carb sources(01:59:46) – Saturated fat, dairy, & best fats for cooking(02:02:10) – Seed oils(02:04:54) – Rapid fire questions(02:12:59) – Cathy Wagner’s scorecard(02:15:18) – Wrap up

24 Mars 2h 18min

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tony-yaniroNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Tony’s early climbing(00:11:01) – Sticky rubber & homemade cams(00:15:32) – 5 steps ahead(00:21:12) – Hangdogging & The Grand Illusion (world’s first 5.13b)(00:26:45) – Snowbird, backlash, & soloers(00:30:08) – The Needles(00:37:40) – Training for Scarface with tin foil(00:40:58) – Pull-ups & Jim Collins(00:45:57) – Quitting climbing the second time(00:49:59) – The Winnebago(00:52:50) – Making climbing holds(00:57:07) – Leslie Gulch(01:05:11) – City of Rocks(01:10:24) – Drawing the line(01:16:12) – Old school bolting(01:24:40) – Riggins(01:28:08) – Hideous Thing(01:30:32) – Tony’s career & weekend climbing(01:36:29) – Building a climbing gym(01:41:41) – Tony’s climbing these days(01:43:13) – Listen to your body(01:46:17) – Respect your body(01:47:50) – What excites Tony

17 Mars 1h 55min

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club👆 Join the Rúngne community & start earning.Use code “NUGGET” to get 10% off storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adam-ondraNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:34) – Onsighting ‘Just Do It’(00:05:13) – Rock Stars(00:07:26) – Adam as a kid(00:15:14) – Unfinished business(00:18:49) – Unclimbed 9c projects(00:23:50) – Untapped potential(00:27:25) – Soudain Seul & other 9As(00:31:17) – The Imhotep project(00:39:55) – Training for long boulders(00:43:43) – Training for sport climbing(00:46:19) – Golpe de Estado(00:48:40) – Patxi training(00:51:07) – Modern comp routes(00:54:29) – Feelings about comps(00:58:32) – Weight for lead comps(01:05:41) – The Olympics(01:07:40) – Speed climbing(01:09:45) – The Dawn Wall(01:21:02) – Adam’s ethics(01:25:54) – Projects in Yosemite & Smith Rock(01:28:30) – Satisfaction with his career(01:32:50) – The monster within(01:36:48) – 7 more years & endless routes(01:38:50) – 8a at 80(01:40:23) – How climbing grades scale(01:41:59) – Finger size(01:45:09) – Hugo(01:46:44) – Letting kids do risky things(01:48:15) – What’s next(01:49:21) – Wrap up

10 Mars 1h 51min

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max’s home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max’s early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max’s simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max’s V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream

3 Mars 2h 40min

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris’ latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest’ 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ronNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:01) – Fish sticks(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other(00:15:08) – Threads & identity(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules(00:31:15) – Follow your heart(00:43:32) – Vision Quest(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing(01:01:02) – The essence(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers(01:30:39) – Flow & precision(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom(01:46:31) – Le Blonde(01:48:19) – Motivation(01:54:04) – A good feeling(01:56:24) – Mother Earth(01:57:37) – A personal path(01:58:49) – Wrap up

24 Feb 2h

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother’s suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival’s adjustable climbing walls and landing systems. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/caroline-ciavaldiniNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:32) – Growing up in La Réunion(00:07:14) – How Caro started climbing(00:09:25) – Early competing(00:14:03) – Her mom’s suicide(00:21:29) – Mental coaching(00:25:27) – Magic & selfishness(00:37:42) – Competition vs. outdoor skills(00:46:18) – Eating disorders & food obsession(00:54:37) – Recovery & satiety(01:01:13) – Becoming adventurous(01:08:09) – Trad moments(01:15:43) – Trips with Yuji Hirayama(01:20:38) – Discussing hard things with kids(01:24:42) – Paradoxes & genetics(01:30:25) – Yellow(01:36:41) – Le Voyage & retraining fear(01:44:24) – Naming emotions(01:48:45) – Gentle feminism(01:58:07) – Women’s cycles(02:03:28) – Menopause & aging in climbing(02:13:20) – The struggles of a pro athlete(02:21:31) – House projects & side hustles(02:26:22) – Wrap up

17 Feb 2h 30min

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget👆 Win a year supply of Chalk from RúngneUse code “NUGGET” to get 15% off storewide.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc’teryx:Women’s climbing clothingMen’s climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/randy-leavittNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:12) – The Dune Cracks(00:05:52) – Offwidth climbing(00:09:17) – Traumatic hip belays(00:14:35) – Bolting Jumbo Love(00:20:01) – From mountaineering to sport climbing(00:26:03) – Book of Hate(00:31:11) – Planet Earth(00:33:39) – The first cell phones(00:39:47) – Money, freedom, & happiness(00:42:45) – Surfing vs. climbing(00:54:15) – The vision of new routing(00:56:52) – A new area in Baja(01:01:16) – Thinking ahead to 40(01:13:44) – Almost drowning(01:21:50) – Aging gracefully(01:27:54) – Hallux limitus(01:34:24) – Getting remodeled(01:39:21) – Piloting(01:49:55) – More route development(01:53:36) – The Grand Canyon(01:56:26) – Time(02:00:06) – Don’t squander your days

10 Feb 2h 1min

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar’s study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon 👉 http://thenuggetclimbing.com/reviewsOr skip the discount and listen to the full episode here 👉  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

5 Feb 38min