EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

EP 75: John Long — Yosemite Tales, the Love of Writing, and Opening Up About Alcoholism

John Long is an American rock climber and author, and one of the original “Stonemasters”. We talked about his early climbing at Tahquitz and Suicide Rock, life in Yosemite in the early 70s, climbing The Nose in a day with Bridwell and Westbay, most humbling moments, John’s new book Icarus Syndrome, and his recent article about alcoholism and drug abuse in climbing.

Support on Patreon:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/john-long

Nuggets:

3:33 – Nose picking, John’s nickname “Largo”, growing up in Indio CA, and being a part of two worlds

6:56 – The state of climbing in 1953, John’s early sports, white water rafting, and hearing stories about climbing

10:37 – Getting hooked on climbing

12:07 – Climbing at Tahquitz Rock in 1971, and jumping on board with new-age climbing

17:47 – Paisano Overhang

30:23 – Hangover

38:43 – Life in Yosemite in the 70s, and the rise of free climbing

47:04 – Camp 4 as a Babylon of rogues and boys club

49:28 – Jim Bridwell

54:23 – The Nose in a day

59:58 – Question from Ron: The bivy at the base of the Gold Wall.

1:04:08 – The cafeteria

1:06:54 – The Bob Lock Memorial Route

1:13:11 – Transitioning away from being “Joe Climber”

1:15:18 – Patron Question from Logan: Most humbling climbing moment?

1:19:12 – The present vs. the past, and gravity as the great leveler

1:21:56 – Question from Lena: What is more valuable in climbing, being a jack of all trades or a master of one?

1:24:05 – Writing, Hollywood, and Rogue’s Babylon

1:30:19 – John’s writing practice

1:32:01 – Alcoholism and substance abuse

1:45:01 – Icarus Syndrome

1:53:03 – Gifts and wrinkles

1:54:01 – Gratitude

Avsnitt(384)

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

EP 74: Tom Randall on Patience, Finger Training, and the Late Night Climbing Show

Tom Randall is one of the Wide Boyz, and the cofounder of Lattice Training. We talked about Tom’s cellar, meeting Ollie Torr and starting a coaching company, how he and Ollie trained each other's weak...

21 Juni 20211h 17min

EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing

EP 73: Kyle O’Meara — Favorite First Ascents, Experience vs. Strength, and Sharing the Love of Climbing

Kyle O’Meara is a high-level boulderer, route climber, and successful climbing coach. He’s a total lifer. We talked about his early climbing and development in the PNW, some of his favorite first asce...

14 Juni 20212h 38min

Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Katie Lambert — Zebra Stripes, and the Goal to Climb 300 5.13s (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Katie Lambert. We talked about her recent haircut, and how that led to getting her body painted for a photo sho...

10 Juni 202117min

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

EP 72: Eric Hörst (Part 2) — Coaching Kids, Training Slopers and Pinches, and the Science of Collagen

This is part 2 of my conversation with Eric Hörst. We talked about the differences between Eric and his sons’ (Cameron and Jonathan) training plans, advice for parents who want to get their kids into ...

7 Juni 20211h 18min

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

EP 71: Eric Hörst (Part 1) — TV Weather, Campusing vs. Hangboarding, and How to Train Your Core

Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route...

31 Maj 20212h 6min

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Alex Johnson — Sending The Mother F***ing Swarm (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This week's follow-up call is with Alex Johnson. We talked about sending ‘The Swarm’ V13/14, her 10+ year project in Bishop, CA. We also talked ab...

27 Maj 202123min

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

EP 70: Steve Maisch — How to Structure a Bouldering Trip, the 85% Rule, and Hueco Debrief

Steve Maisch is a training legend and has been pursuing improvement in rock climbing for more than two decades. Jon Glassberg credits Steve’s training methodology for his recent send of ‘The Nest’ V15...

24 Maj 20212h 28min

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

EP 69: Ron Kauk — Hollywood Stories, Camp 4 in the 70s, and Connecting with Mother Nature

Ron Kauk is a legendary Yosemite climber. He recently received a Lifetime Achievement Award for his many accomplishments, within and beyond climbing. We talked about life in Camp 4 in the 70s, climbin...

17 Maj 20212h 24min

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