EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

EP 76: Q&A 2 — Party Tricks vs. Useful Exercises, Training for Long-Term Goals, and Octopus Wrestling

In Q&A 2, I tackle patron questions about party tricks vs. useful exercises, training for long-term goals and what I am doing to train for Just Do It, how to prepare our bodies for tweaky moves, podcast behind-the-scenes secrets, my experience with feeling light vs. feeling strong, how I manage my weight after an eating disorder, favorite workouts for sport climbing, octopus wrestling, and much more.

Become a Patron:

patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

Facebook Group:

facebook.com/groups/thenuggetclimbing

Private Q&As:

thenuggetclimbing.com/coaching

Show Notes:

http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/qa-2

Nuggets:

00:00 – Introduction, Patreon, New Facebook Group, and Private Q&As

05:18 – Scott’s Question: Party tricks vs. useful exercises?

11:05 – Brandon’s Question: How are you training for ‘Just Do It’?

20:49 – Nolan’s Question: Regarding JDI, which skills/strengths fall short for you, and which ones do you think are adequate?

23:56 – Nolan’s Question: Can you build your sport climbing pyramid and bouldering pyramid at the same time?

29:02 – Conner’s Question: Is your current lifestyle (van, travel, podcast, etc.) financially sustainable?

31:11 – Jimmy’s Question: Favorite workouts for transitioning from boulder to sport mode?

34:40 – Liam’s Question: How do we balance climbing or training in safe positions, with preparing our bodies for tweaky moves?

37:20 – Alec’s Question: What does the edit process look like for you?

38:20 – Alec’s Question: What do you talk about in your pre-show call?

39:30 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any insights into learning to climb fast?

41:40 – Alec’s Question: Do you have any proud ascents from Hueco?

43:03 – Alec’s Question: How do you do weight training on the road?

43:54 – Alec’s Question: Area’s you’ll plan on climbing in for the rest of the year?

44:50 – Jeff’s Question: How does the sensation of feeling light compare to feeling strong?

49:30 – David’s Question: How do you manage your weight, and how do you manage your thoughts linked to your eating disorder?

53:54 – Emma’s Question: How can I get better at climbing technique? Is it as simple as climbing more?

58:00 – Emma’s Question: What exercises beyond the hangboard are most useful for bouldering strength?

1:00:12 – Casey’s Question: Any supplements you take?

1:02:02 – Casey’s Question: Tips for focusing before hard efforts on an onsight?

1:03:38 – Casey’s Question: Any thoughts on where you’d like to settle eventually?

1:04:33 – Casey’s Question: Any trashy TV you’ve been addicted to, or are you somehow immune?

1:05:52 – Casey’s Question: How much do you love watching good dancers on the internet?

1:06:34 – Casey’s Question: MAA match between 800 lb octopus and an 800 lb raccoon, who wins?

1:07:27 – Casey’s Question: What are you grateful for?

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EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

EP 305: Dr. Mohammad Ashori — The 5 Things That Will Keep You Climbing for Decades

Dr. Mohammad Ashori is a board-certified family medicine physician, health coach, and rock climber. We talked about the importance of putting on muscle, how much rest we need between training sessions...

31 Aug 2h 14min

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

EP 304: Justen Sjong Returns — Unique Challenges for Tall & Short Climbers (And What Actually Helps)

Justen Sjong (The Climbing Sensei) returns to the podcast to discuss the unique challenges of being tall or short in climbing. We talk about the disadvantages tall climbers face, how injury risk and t...

18 Aug 2h 12min

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

EP 303: Adam Ondra Returns — How He Prepares to Flash V15, and Why the Best Sport Climbers Are Also the Best Boulderers

Adam Ondra is back on the podcast to discuss his incredible winter bouldering season, including four V15 (8C) flashes. We talked about why the best sport climbers can keep up with the bouldering speci...

13 Juli 1h 43min

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

EP 302: Aaron Shamy — The Epic Comeback: Sending 5.14c After a 15-Year Hiatus

Aaron Shamy has an inspiring story: he won the X Games in the ‘90s, took a 15-year hiatus from climbing, got out of shape, and then began a 6+ year comeback that culminated in sending the hardest rout...

29 Juni 1h 42min

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

EP 301: Matt Samet — Escaping Benzo Addiction, Rifle in the Early ‘90s, and Embracing the Moonboard in His 40s

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who...

8 Juni 2h 10min

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

EP 300: Jeff Patterson — What Climbers Can Learn from Martial Arts (and How 20 Minutes of Meditation Could Change Your Life)

Jeff Patterson is a martial arts instructor with black belt equivalency in 6x different martial arts, including Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, Muay Thai, and Tai Chi. We talked about how practicing the meditati...

25 Maj 1h 1min

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

EP 299: Herm Feissner — A Unique Training Philosophy at Age 53, Understanding Hard Moves, and Balancing an Engineering Career with Travel & Climbing

Herm Feissner is a lifer climber based in Fort Collins, CO. We talked about doing the FA of The Practitioner V11 in Leavenworth, WA, in the early 2000s, his training philosophy at 53 years old, how hi...

14 Maj 2h 9min

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

EP 298: Sonnie Trotter — Gunning for 5.15, How He Trained as a Teen, and Stamina vs. Strength

Sonnie Trotter is a Canadian professional rock climber and one of the most accomplished and respected climbers of his generation. We talked about his goal to climb 5.15, my impression of meeting him a...

27 Apr 2h 7min

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