EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing.

*I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpson

Nuggets:

0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine

0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you

0:13:23 – Being born in 1944

0:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally feminine

0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism

0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 30

0:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan

0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports

0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s

0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters

0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life

0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books

0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city

0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat

0:56:04 – John

0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips

1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences

1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John

1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight

1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 53

1:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?

1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 1968

1:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang

1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health

1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone

1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names

1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up

2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders

2:08:59 – No limits

Avsnitt(385)

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

EP 97: Austin Hoyt — Favorite Zones in the Northeast, Rediscovering Old Projects, and Being a GUNKaholic

Austin Hoyt is an 18-year-old kid from New York whose tick list rivals some professional climbers. We talked about balancing school with climbing, what he learned from his first coach, his FA of ‘Flas...

29 Nov 20211h 35min

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

EP 96: Joe Kinder — The Love of Projecting, Leaving a Legacy, and the Other Side of Cancellation

Joe Kinder is one of the hardest-working route developers in North America. We talked about his recent ascent of ‘Kinder Cakes’ 5.15a in Rifle, CO,  putting up routes in mediocre rock, leaving a legac...

22 Nov 20212h 53min

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

EP 95: Tyler Algeo — Starting a Climbing Gym in Africa, Climb Malawi, and Raising Black Sons as a White Dad

Tyler Algeo is a Canadian who moved to Africa and started a climbing gym, with the goal of creating a socio-economically inclusive climbing community in Malawi. We talked about learning to climb in Ir...

15 Nov 20212h 11min

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — When to Stick With It, and Climbing His First 5.14 at Age 47 (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Steve Bechtel. We talked about when to stick with a training program vs. when to pivot, lessons from ...

11 Nov 202121min

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

EP 94: Nathaniel Coleman — Preparing for the Tokyo Olympics, Climbing in a Sauna, and Kendama Training

Nathaniel Coleman is the men’s silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite r...

8 Nov 20211h 48min

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

EP 93: Tom Herbert (Part 2) —How to Relax to Improve your Passat Reserves, and Tom’s Life Story

This is part 2 of my conversation with Tom Herbert. Tom shared some clarifications about part 1, we talked about the nervous system and the mind-body connection, how to relax before a session to impro...

1 Nov 20212h 32min

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Natasha Barnes — Climbing Harder in a Stronger Body (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of my second Follow-Up with Natasha Barnes. We talked about how each of us has changed as climbers from gaining muscle mass, how ...

28 Okt 202122min

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

EP 92: Tom Herbert (Part 1) — Eating More to Train Harder, Protein Synthesis, and Carbohydrate Timing

Tom Herbert is known as the usefulcoach, and is a leader in climbing sports nutrition. We talked about common themes in clients he works with, his philosophy of getting climbers to eat more calories t...

25 Okt 20212h 35min

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