EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

EP 121: Carol Simpson — Being a Girl in the South in the 1950s, Yoga as the Fountain of Youth, and Ageism in Climbing

Carol Simpson is a 77-year-old rock climber and yoga instructor from Lone Pine, CA. We talked about growing up in the South in the 1950s, identifying as a “tomboy”, feeling pressure to be feminine as a teenager, embracing athletics in her 30s, discovering climbing at age 42, sending her first 5.12a at age 53, yoga as the fountain of youth, and ageism in climbing.

*I loved this conversation. If you enjoy exploring different perspectives from your own, and hearing about others’ lived experiences, don’t skip this episode.

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carol-simpson

Nuggets:

0:06:50 – A day in the life of Carol Simpson, and her home in Lone Pine

0:10:27 – Moving from Vegas to Lone Pine, having different chapters in our lives, and becoming apathetic about the beauty around you

0:13:23 – Being born in 1944

0:14:43 – Growing up in the South in the 50s as a “tomboy”, and feeling pressure to be more traditionally feminine

0:19:28 – Being raised to believe that women get married and have kids, and finding feminism

0:22:08 – Our adult life begins at 30

0:23:46 – Not being able to get a loan for a car without a man to sign for the loan

0:25:11 – Going back to school in her 30s with two kids, and starting to play tennis and running and trying other sports

0:30:30 – More about being a teenager in the 50s and 60s

0:32:58 – How the culture continues to change for women, and Carol’s daughters and granddaughters

0:37:45 – Discovering climbing at age 42, and how climbing completely changed her life

0:42:31 – Hitting the road to climb in her 40s, and early climbing training books

0:46:00 – Art, studying interior design in college, and working in the big city

0:52:04 – Scrambling a 4th class route, and getting a hard time for being a mountain goat

0:56:04 – John

0:59:58 – The book Lying by Sam Harriss, being honest with your partner, and some of Carol’s favorite climbing trips

1:04:25 – How Carol and John navigate their political differences

1:10:03 – What Carol appreciates most about John

1:12:39 – “You can’t get off of the bus.” - Mark Twight

1:16:36 – Redpoint climbing shop near Smith Rock, and redpointing Latin Lover 5.12a at age 53

1:24:29 – Question from Taylor: What are the things when it comes to aging as an athlete that people don’t think about?

1:31:22 – Practicing yoga since 1968

1:34:26 – Carol’s current yoga practice, and the yin and the yang

1:39:38 – The time commitment to see improvement through yoga, and taking care of your health

1:44:35 – Working with Chris Heilman, and expanding her comfort zone

1:53:59 – How Carol keeps her wits sharp, and how to remember names

1:58:40 – 80% of life is showing up

2:01:32 – Ageism, and showing respect for our elders

2:08:59 – No limits

Avsnitt(384)

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

EP 240: Alex Megos — Post-Olympic Sending Spree, the America Tour, and Making Changes to Reach His Full Potential

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, w...

23 Sep 20241h 18min

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

BONUS: Ron Kauk — A Call for Future Generations

Another phone call with Ron Kauk.Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org

19 Sep 202443min

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

EP 239: Fundamentals — How to Start Weight Training

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4...

16 Sep 20241h 32min

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

EP 238: Girls Gone Hueco — Making the First All-Female Bouldering Film & the Power of a Girl Gang | ft. Midori Buechli & Long Truong

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the p...

15 Sep 20241h 21min

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Why Lazy Athletes Get Strong, My 200 lb Grip Goal, and How to Combine Climbing With Targeted Finger Training

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limi...

9 Sep 20242h 9min

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

EP 236: Fundamentals — How to Train on a Spray Wall

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and ...

2 Sep 20241h 10min

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Why Your Spine & Stress Might Be Responsible for Your Forearm & Finger Pain

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain...

27 Aug 20242h

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

EP 234: Fundamentals — How to Climb on a Training Board

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshop...

19 Aug 20241h 2min

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