EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.

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And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-black

Nuggets:

0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story

0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition

0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach

0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery

0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement

0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time

0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant

0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs

0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies

0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy

0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?

0:56:43 – Educating your doctor

0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor

1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things

1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train

1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset

1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle

1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids

1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?

1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training

1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!

1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries

1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments

1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy

2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training

2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole

2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner

2:19:23 – Love and muscles

2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”

2:23:02 – My current life project

2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project

2:31:13 – Wrap up

Avsnitt(387)

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

EP 81: Hazel Findlay — The Ego, Fear of Falling, and Mental Training for ‘Magic Line’

Hazel Findlay is a professional climber and mental training coach from the UK, known for her boldness on dangerous and difficult trad routes. We talked about common themes in mental coaching, how the ...

9 Aug 20211h 31min

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

EP 80: Robb Wolf — Prioritizing Protein, the Importance of Sleep, and a Case for a Meat Inclusive Diet

Robb Wolf is a former research biochemist and 2x New York Times best-selling author of The Paleo Solution and Wired To Eat. We talked about his breakfast, how he tackles nutrition with his two kids, h...

2 Aug 20211h 35min

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Ron Kauk — Listener Q&A, Who Punched John Bachar, and a Plane Full of Weed (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Ron Kauk. We tackled listener questions about bouldering without crash pads, favorite routes, the legend...

29 Juli 202132min

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

EP 79: Tyler Nelson — A Deep Dive Into Blood Flow Restriction (BFR), Finger Training, and Doughnut Eating

Dr. Tyler Nelson is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance and specializes in tendon loading, strengthening, and rehabilitation. We talked about blood flow restriction training (BFR), and how it can be ...

26 Juli 20212h 1min

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

EP 78: Jason Kehl — Karate Screams, Chronology of Hairstyles, and Bouldering with Cargo Nets

Jason Kehl is a professional rock climber known for his highball bouldering ascents, and unique artistic expression. We talked about karate and how screaming helps his climbing, roof climbing in his p...

19 Juli 20211h 44min

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

EP 77: Allison Vest — A Competitor’s Mindset, Fun Challenges, and the Secret to One-Arm Hangs

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, t...

12 Juli 20212h 2min

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Shanjean Lee — Free Climbing El Cap (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Shanjean Lee. We talked about her recent free ascent of ‘Freerider’ on El Cap in Yosemite, and had some ...

8 Juli 202112min

A Call from Ethan

A Call from Ethan

Ethan missed the Q&A and had a question he wanted to ask me. ⁠

7 Juli 202132min

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