EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

EP 128: Callie Joy Black — Training During Pregnancy, Climbing Hard with Kids, and Being Your Own Project

Callie Joy Black is a strength coach who specializes in training during pregnancy and postpartum. We talked about the most common concerns she hears from pregnant women, falling risk while pregnant, returning to climbing postpartum, strength training during pregnancy, climbing hard with kids, being selfish and creating boundaries, and being your own project.

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And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!

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We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

  • Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/callie-joy-black

Nuggets:

0:05:28 – Overview of this podcast episode, and her son’s pants-shitting story

0:12:00 – Why Joy studied Spanish in college, getting pregnant, being a single mom, and studying nutrition

0:15:19 – Being obsessed with movement, getting into climbing, and her path to becoming a strength coach

0:19:09 – Why Joy chose to specialize in training during pregnancy and post-partum recovery

0:24:26 – How male listeners can benefit from this conversation, and how the pelvic floor affects movement

0:28:43 – Being scared of pregnancy, and two things Joy wishes someone had told her when she was pregnant for the first time

0:32:39 – Fall risk with climbing when pregnant

0:41:37 – Where Joy lives and where she usually climbs

0:42:59 – Joy’s three pregnancies

0:49:14 – Making the best decision for you and your pregnancy

0:50:33 – When is it ok to climb after pregnancy?

0:56:43 – Educating your doctor

0:59:29 – How to support your climbing during pregnancy with strength training, and the role of the pelvic floor

1:07:08 – Empowering women to lift heavier things

1:18:00 – How Joy gets buy-in from women who are nervous to strength train

1:26:04 – Changing from a performance mindset to an exploratory mindset

1:27:52 – One of my favorite quotes from Steve Bechtel, and writing the forward to his book Mettle

1:30:16 – Losing members of your climbing community when they have kids, and sharing climbing with your kids

1:33:06 – Is it possible to climb just as hard after pregnancy and having kids?

1:40:38 – Joy’s current climbing goal to climb 5.12, and working with Maddie from Lattice Training

1:42:32 – Get a hangboard!

1:42:59 – Being selfish and creating boundaries

1:50:27 – A question from Mina about key lightbulb moments

1:55:17 – Relaxin (hormone) and hangboarding during pregnancy

2:02:34 – More resources for breath work and pelvic floor training

2:11:27 – Breathing into your butthole

2:12:54 – Joy’s tips for using Instagram as a business owner

2:19:23 – Love and muscles

2:20:51 – “The best project you will ever work on is you.”

2:23:02 – My current life project

2:27:44 – Joy’s current life project

2:31:13 – Wrap up

Avsnitt(385)

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

EP 54: Matt Segal — ‘Miami Vice’, Coffee with Benefits, and a Brief Stint with Paragliding

Matt Segal is a professional rock climber and the founder/owner of Alpine Start, a company that makes “Instant Coffee That Actually Tastes Good”. We talked about how Matt got started in climbing, his ...

8 Feb 20211h 22min

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Mike Doyle — How to Maintain Finger Strength While Sport Climbing (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Mike Doyle. We talked about some of the exercises that have helped Mike in his recovery from his elbow i...

4 Feb 202114min

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

EP 53: Jon Glassberg (Part 2) — MoonBoarding, an Example Training Day, and Foreign Haircuts

This is part 2 of my conversation with Jon Glassberg. We talked about flexibility training, how Jon uses the MoonBoard and why he thinks it is such a useful tool, why how he structures a six-week trai...

1 Feb 20211h 24min

EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15

EP 52: Jon Glassberg (Part 1) — Filming Emily Harrington on ‘Golden Gate’, and Pursuing V15

Jon Glassberg is the owner of Louder Than Eleven, a leading media production company in the Outdoor Industry. He is also a total crusher, having climbed 400+ boulders from V10 to V14. In part one we t...

25 Jan 20212h 5min

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Goal Setting and the "Three Good Tries" Rule (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Steve Bechtel. We talked about goal setting, how drinking more water can help with fat loss, the "Three ...

21 Jan 202113min

EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals

EP 51: Chris and Heather Weidner — Kneebar Wizardry, Projecting Tips, and Supporting Each Other’s Goals

Chris and Heather Weidner are a hardcore climbing couple, both with many 5.14s under their belt across multiple rock climbing disciplines. We talked about drink counting, New Year resolutions, current...

18 Jan 20211h 50min

EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing

EP 50: Jon Cardwell — Projecting 5.15, Pre-Training Modes, and Bouldering for Sport Climbing

Jon Cardwell is a professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and sport climbing. Jon’s tick list includes V15, multiple 5.15a’s, and hundreds of 5.14s. We talked about lessons learned fro...

11 Jan 20211h 45min

Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)

Follow-Up: Lizzy VanPatten — 'Make Me Sanguine' (Teaser)

This full episode is available for Patrons right now! This is a teaser of a follow-up call with Lizzy VanPatten. We talked about her FA of ‘Make Me Sanguine’ 5.13a—a beautiful new trad route on some o...

8 Jan 202115min

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